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That's the one. It looks like you took care of it with your wiring upgrade though.

Okay I will look into it! And are you referring to the post that is on the top of the under hood fuse box? The pics in the forum thats what it looks like. Not the positive battery terminal itself right?

Check how hot the auxillary battery terminal gets...mine would get hot and cause voltage drops until I replaced it...previous owners thought it was just going through alternators. I had one of the zinc ones (and one with the bottom threads stripped so it was had a couple of washers for spacers and what appeared to be a Delco radio post nut as well) and replaced it with brass...common issue on the B bodies too, and it's the same process and part number for replacement. Might not apply on a 2000, though... Replacing the Auxiliary Battery Post | Page 3 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Please do. That slight voltage sag (dimming/fan speed drop) that took place above when the AC compressor kicked in is 100% normal operation for these cars in my view, and its just a byproduct of how the charging system is programmed to function. It can happen whenever a large electrical load comes on line at low RPM, and It is definitely visible in the headlights when they are on. My 2000 Regal did this all the time, and the factory alternator and the 6 year old battery were still fully functional when I got rid of that car in early 2015.

Okay 10-4, gonna try and get a video of the lights doing it tonight so you can see!

I will warm it up later today and check the temp of the tubes again.

I'm going to be honest, I don't see an issue there. It cranked just fine, and the dip sounded like the AC compressor kicking on. The slight electrical dip is likely just a product of a slight lag between a large electrical load kicking in and the duty cycle of the alternator being increased adequately to compensate.

Hey man I know this is super late reply so you may not even see this, but where did you get the puddle lamps? And were they plug and play or did you have to fab anything to get it mounted?

Good morning! So last night I took out the ABS fuse while I eas driving around. Unfortunately the headlights would still do the same thing I am still going to look into the sensors today as I do have a random grinding sound that will come and go from the rear, so maybe a bad wheel bearing. That being said do you think its something else since it still did it with the fuse out? I am also attaching a video of what the interior lights do at first start up. The noise and the way the lights act are very similar to the what the headlights do when slowing down. I had my park brake on this morning so didnt check the headlights unfortunately. Thanks in advance for the help, im still new to electrical so excuse my ignorance on next steps! 20251218_072241.mp4

Seems unlikely that it would air-lock and then work properly, then air-lock again. Same with plugging the coolant flow path--I can only think of one thing that would plug the heater core sometimes, and not other times. So I'm at a total loss as to why both heater hoses are not "hot" whenever the engine is fully-warm, unless you have a faulty heater-control valve, or heater valve control mechanism--dash controllers, faulty vacuum hoses, etc.

Man thank you so much for all the info! Going to dive into this tonight and see what I find. Ill post tomorrow with the results

You don’t have to. I did because I was I was too cheap to fix it properly at the time. No ABS was far safer than unwanted activation. Sometimes, there is a bit of rust scale that builds up and lifts the sensor (rust jacking), changing the air gap and making the signal weaker and less reliable. Other times, the wheel hub begins to wear internally and can cover the sensor with metal filings, making the signal weaker. The sensors themselves can also go bad. If your scanner is Bidirectional, then the odds of it being able to read ABS data is pretty good.

Ah dang, so you just run without ABS then? My scanner is bi directional so I am going to try and drive it later maybe pin point a bad wheel speed sensor

I seem to recall my Regal doing that as well sometimes. I always attributed it to a delay between an increased electrical demand and the PCM increasing the duty cycle of the alternator to compensate. If your scanner can read ABS codes, you should be able to monitor individual wheel speeds. If it's just a generic OBD2 scanner, those usually can't read ABS data. That's how mine started. The odd random ABS pulse, or the occasional ABS light coming on that would disappear after a restart. Eventually, I had to pull the fuse because the ABS began activating randomly at lower speeds and made things dangerous.

Also just remembered when I first picked the car up one morning the ABS light did come on. All I did was shut the car off and it went away. Definitely think youre onto something now

Hmm I am not positive but that does seem to make sense given when its happening. Im not necessarily on the brakes when it happens, but sometimes just letting off the accelerator causes it. I have an Autel scanner. Would there be a way for me to watch for this using live data in some way?

Ok. Now this may sound like a really weird question....are you absolutely positive that the ABS isn't activating when you're slowing down? The ABS pump activates briefly during its self check shortly after startup (or when you first start moving...can't recall which). In every 90s/2000s GM i've driven, including a 2000 Regal, the ABS pump initially kicking in would often cause a bit of a power dip (headlights dimming slightly, blower speed audibly slowing slightly etc..). Something that I have also had issues with in some of those vehicles has been unwanted ABS activation from weak/failing wheel speed sensors and/or failing tone rings. You may need to really listen and feel for an unwanted ABS activation, as it can range from being a very quick and random engagement of the pump that you don't really feel.... to full on constant ABS activation with the pushback of the pedal and the sensation of a loss of braking power.

The latter would be a better description. It’s like a large draw and they will dim then go back to normal. Sometimes it does it once’s, sometimes a few times in a row

You'll have to define the pulsing. Is it like a continuous flicker, or is it more along the lines of a large draw where the lights briefly dim once and then come back up?

And it worked as designed yesterday...

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Hello everyone! i have recently acquired a 2002 Buick Regal. This car was a one owner car and I picked it up in October with 74k miles on it. It has been very well taken care of. I bought this car because of the reliability factor, however I have fallen in love with how it drives! The only issue that I am having is intermittent headlight pulsing. It only happens when the car is decelerating and slowing down under 30mph or so. So far I have replaced the battery, had the alternator tested(tested good ), went and bought another alternator and installed just in case of possible voltage regulator. Also found and cleaned thee grounds under the fuse box, next to the drivers headlight, and the engine ground by the exhaust. I have also ran a big 3 wire upgrade (did this for future sound system) as well as an extra power wire from fuse box to alternator(saw some videos where people said this extra line helped)This seemed to make my headlights a bit brighter, but not affect on the pulsing. All that being said i am still getting the same result. The interior lights will dim for a moment when the car first starts and the the headlights on deceleration. From what I have found there is no headlight relay, only fuses. I have one friend who has suggested new bulbs, however I am not convinced this would fix anything as they are older but still light up well. Any suggestions on where to look next would be greatly appreciated!

Right. That's confusing; seems like it is routed incorrectly. Worked perfectly fine yesterday. Even more confusing.

Yep....that's what I was going to do until I ran into a couple of hurdles.....no supplier on this side of the border had the aluminum crimps available, no supplier on ebay in the states at that time who had them would ship across the border, no shop in the nearby area had the equipment to fabricate custom a.c lines. Go figure