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How much do you think it would cost for electrical issue and HVAC door vents issue?


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#1 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 11:08 PM

After 5 long months I decided I couldn’t fix the issue anymore. I took the regal to th shop where they gave me an option. Where would you like to start first? Electrical side or HVAC? Well of course I said electrical first because you can drive a car without heat and ac. But not electrical because it’s a safety issue. The mechanic told me that labor for the electrical is how the price keeps increasing because they need check for power and eliminate power from components to see what is working. There are so many wire harness in the car. They would need to remove panels etc to check for good condition of them. And it appears for the HVAC vents stuck in defroster mode, the guy said all the vacuum lines look good. So if his vacuum gage don’t hold the right vacuum he will need to remove the dash and take out the whole unit. This could take days, and again if the parts are bad they would need to find them. How much of a ball park price do you think it would cost separately? Electrical and HVAC each? They all say the same thing, we don’t know because it’s a matter of taking things apart and checking everything out. But if you had to make a general opinion, how much in the ball park?

#2 55trucker

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Posted 10 July 2018 - 11:58 PM

You are stuck between a rock & a hard place,

 

all of the information that I passed on to you did not help you solve the vacuum side of the solenoid box?

 

Were you not able to verify that all of the actuators were good?

 

You did state that you ordered & did have a replacement solenoid, did you install that and get the same result?

 

What happened?


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#3 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:43 PM

I have did everything you said exactly as you said it. All the actuators holds good vacuum and both old and new solenoid box does as well. But I had to replace the solenoid box because the old one cracked. All the lines are also good and not cracked. All along I thought it was the vacuum lines worn out due to age. But the shop confirmed they were still good. Everything you told me to do didn’t fix the issue. My luck something has worn out inside where the doors function and I won’t be able to get parts for it.

#4 55trucker

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 02:56 PM

Alright,

 

at the time you were testing the individual actuators (vacuum diaphragms) did you notice the plunger arms retracting & pulling on the connected door levers?


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#5 Imp558

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 03:35 PM

We should have a thread in FAQ on electrical testing. Most everything can be diagnosed with simple continuity tests and visual inspection

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#6 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 04:59 PM

Alright, at the time you were testing the individual actuators (vacuum diaphragms) did you notice the plunger arms retracting & pulling on the connected door levers?

No they seemed ok.. they were connected tightly and plunged vacuum with no issues when I was testing them.

#7 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 05:01 PM

We should have a thread in FAQ on electrical testing. Most everything can be diagnosed with simple continuity tests and visual inspection

Electrical is one of the areas where I need a lot of work in. I don’t have the experience. I tried fixing the electrical issue on my Buick and almost caught on fire. When that happened I didn’t want to touch anything else causing more damage

#8 55trucker

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 07:27 PM

No they seemed ok.. they were connected tightly and plunged vacuum with no issues when I was testing them.

So from what you could observe all of the doors were moving as they should do & none of them were seized in any manner or restricted in their range of movement.


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#9 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 11 July 2018 - 07:47 PM

So from what you could observe all of the doors were moving as they should do & none of them were seized in any manner or restricted in their range of movement.

I couldn’t see all the doors. Only seen the one under the glovebox and where the control actuator motor connects too. Both doors didn’t open automatically. The doors I’ve seen weren’t seized. But they were restricted. I could only open them with my hand.

#10 Schurkey

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Posted 15 July 2018 - 07:27 PM

How much of a ball park price do you think it would cost separately? Electrical and HVAC each? They all say the same thing, we don’t know because it’s a matter of taking things apart and checking everything out. But if you had to make a general opinion, how much in the ball park?

This cannot be answered any better than the shop already told you.  The "fix" is dependent on both the actual problem, and the skill, experience, and integrity of the guy performing the work.  It's a total roll-of-the-dice.

 

We called this a "Straight Time" repair, shop rate X hours needed.

 

I tried fixing the electrical issue on my Buick and almost caught on fire.

I suppose it will cost less than destroying your vehicle.


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#11 89-W-Body-Regal

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Posted 16 July 2018 - 09:30 PM

This cannot be answered any better than the shop already told you. The "fix" is dependent on both the actual problem, and the skill, experience, and integrity of the guy performing the work. It's a total roll-of-the-dice. We called this a "Straight Time" repair, shop rate X hours needed. I suppose it will cost less than destroying your vehicle.

I agree on both of them. As long as it’s fixed right it’s all that counts. There are some things I can do and some I can’t do because don’t have the type of exeperience to do them yet. I just hope it don’t cost a forutune. I am pretty sure I fixed the electrical issue the best I could because the wire diagrams helped me out. Just hope the HVAC is not that high demanding. The reason why we been spending thousands of dollars to keep her running strong is because my grandpa bought the car in the showroom and we are the only owners so it’s very sentimental and I love the car with my life.




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