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Cheapo ball joints 98 GP GT

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#21 98gpgt



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Posted 25 July 2017 - 09:25 PM

"Now, YES, I had to cut loose (sawz-all or angle-gringer) the rusted ball joint retainer (AND sway links) i.e., the little 8mm allen wrench will NOT sustain the torque required to loosen the rusted ball joint fastener ..." I have to ask a lot of questions becaiuse with some things once you vet into it you're committed and the vehicle is disabled. Once you grind away the nubs on the bottom of tne control arm, don't you need enough definition in the top (allen key) holes to take tbe bolts out? My bolts looked pretty rusty and at d First glance didn't resemble holes tbat would take allen keys. Not sure if tbat's an option. But what would I do otherwise? I had to drive out the rivets from the bottom with a punch on my Lumina. I'm going out tbere momentarily to PB Blast everything I need to. But the job won't get started until Thutsday.

#22 White93z34


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Posted 27 July 2017 - 12:30 PM

I assume you are talking about grinding out the rivets on the lower control arm to change the balljoint?


I hate doing that myself, pain in the ass. I've had it where I've knocked the heads off but they are still too expanded in the holes to do anything and then had to drill them out, not on a w-body but same concept.


I can't 100% say for sure on a 2g w body since I've only just replaced the entire control arm rather then just the balljoint. 

-Chris D.


1992 Chevrolet Lumina Z34 3.4L TDC v6 Getrag 284
1990 Pontiac Turbo Grand Prix 3.1L v6 Hydramatic 4T60 Qty:2
2001 Cadillac Seville STS 4.6L DOHC v8 Hydramatic 4T80
1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28/IROC-Z 5.0L v8, Hydramatic 700R4
2007 Ford Ranger 2.3 i4 Automatic

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