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Rattling and clunk


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#21 95GS

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 12:41 AM

Thanks, Imp. I'm hoping to avoid replacing the subframe, at least for the moment. 

If I go that far, I'll want to do a lot more. Not time or facilities at present to get deep.

I think the rest is in good or at least better shape than this trouble spot. No apparent signs of deep rust.

 

May have to lower it to weld, maybe not.

How many attachment points for the subframe to body/engine?

Two are plainly visible at the rear.

Is there a thread on this - I've searched but not found yet.



#22 95GS

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 12:56 AM

cessna,

 

These shots might help you target the trouble.

 

Overall view - driver wheelwell. Hakkapeliitta snow at left.  

Pointer shows rubber bushing in U-bracket over stabilizer bar.

 

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Closer view of bracket - note separation (lifting) from subframe.

 

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Another view of lifting bracket & torn out bolt.

 

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#23 95GS

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 01:41 AM

cessna, as a temp. fix to stop rattle and wear for next two days until I can fix this,

I'll try to bind the stabilizer bar to the sub-frame using web & ratchet...just to stabilize it...lol

 

Does anyone know the hardware dimensions here? Bolt diameter & length. Are these hardened?

 

What's involved in removing the stabilizer bar?

Can the car be driven around the block without the bar?



#24 cessna

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 10:05 AM

nice shots of problem GS, just wondering if you can go all the way threw subframe with bolt and maybe place a plate underside? if the frame is not rotted out at top completely that is just from looking at the pics not really sure but like I said I need to get under my vehicle and check this area also 


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#25 Imp558

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 06:07 PM

nice shots of problem GS, just wondering if you can go all the way threw subframe with bolt and maybe place a plate underside? if the frame is not rotted out at top completely that is just from looking at the pics not really sure but like I said I need to get under my vehicle and check this area also

wow that's a really good idea maybe have a machine shop make up a couple of plates for underneath the bracket out of 1/8" plate. then drove through to the bottom and just use longer grade 8 bolts on it. I can see that working without any problem for quite a while anyway

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#26 Schurkey

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 07:05 PM

Grade 8 bolts will be fine, but Grade 5 would work just fine.

 

If a patch-plate will work (subframe not totally rotted-out) the worst part of this mess will be getting the original hardware out.


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#27 cessna

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Posted 27 April 2017 - 11:26 PM

Yes make sure the rot has not caused more problems than what is showing on the surface like Shurkey suggested, if it is still intact you should be good to go if that would be a better alternative for you, like I said I need to take a closer look at mine when the time permits, that was just a simple suggestion,also make sure you use a strait edge to line up the holes you want to drill,  the bolt should be as vertical as possible to eliminate any added stress....let me know if you try this and how it works out for you ......Cessna



#28 95GS

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 05:40 AM

A little crowbar persuasion pried it up & off, with the bushing.

 

 

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Yes Shurkey, Grade 5 would probably do the job..

 

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Bolts are 3/8 or 10mm (not sure), head is 1/2 inch (13mm), nut is 11/16.

 

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#29 95GS

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 05:55 AM

 the worst part of this mess will be getting the original hardware out.

 

I think I'll need heat to get it apart.

 

Cessna, I had thought of your suggestion, but dismissed it, thinking the top rot would be excessive, and a welded plate would be necessary.

Welding would be better, but I may try through-bolts with a bottom plate, bought them today. Rot is not too bad, quite local to those two bolt holes.

 

If welding a top plate, I would want to hammer down the top surface to leave a level finished surface. Not much room for a hammer there.

Nor is it the easiest place to weld - rubber boots, brake & gas lines, sway bar in the way. 



#30 Schurkey

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 10:41 PM

1.  The bolts are metric.  Doesn't matter, you're not going to re-use them.

 

2.  Don't bother trying to unthread the nuts.  Scrap the old bolts and strap.

 

3.  Buy a Polyurethane sway bar mount set of the proper diameter and bolt spacing.  Comes with the Poly bushings, and new metal straps.  You'll need to source bolts long enough to go through the subframe and reinforcement strap that you'll fabricate.  May even need a reinforcement on the top of the subframe, under the sway bar mounts--maybe 1/16 thick or so.  The top plate MIGHT be included with the sway bar mount set.

 

ens-9-5106g_ml.jpg

 

https://www.summitra...rts/ens-9-5159g

 

My Luminas take the 23mm version.  Yours may be different.

 

4.  As long as you're spending money, you could consider replacing the end-links with Poly parts, too.


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#31 cessna

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Posted Today, 12:15 AM

Wow Gs looks as tho you do have a little problem there, glad you got them out , like shurkey said in the trash is best for those 2, yes I would agree its going to be tight maybe you could get the width of the frame and kinda make a cap to fit over and weld on the sides instead of the top room permitting that is im not sure how much of an effect it would be on the sway bar if you used say 1/16 steel i would think the bushing could handle that amount without problem.

Let us know how it all works out ..Cessna 






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