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winter storage


rockfangd
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Figured i would post information on my winter storage of my W-body and share some tips.

People say i baby my cutlass too much but when i look at my winter DD covered up to the roof with salt and snow and i open the garage door to see my nice clean cutlass shining it makes it all worthwhile. :mrgreen:

now here are some tips for winter storage for Ws and just about any other vehicle,

1. when you store your car leave it on its wheels and just maintain the tire pressure, Some people recommend putting 2/8s under the wheels but to me it doesnt make any difference.

2. Get a trickle charger, it saves aggrivation, the battery, alternator, and did i mention aggrivation.

I run a simple 1.5 amp trickle charger with float maintainer. It maintains the battery at full charge without overcharging it. I bought the onboard one that can be mounted under the hood and you just plug it in when you need it. AS for where to connect the wires. The red i put on the aux post and the black i put on the strut tower bolt. MY car starts up with no hesitation at all.

3. IRISH SPRING SOAP will be your best friend when it comes time to drive the car again. It repels the rodents extremely well and it does not have that nasty mothballs smell. I buy 4 bars. One for the trunk, one under each front seat, and one under the hood on top of the airbox. I have never had any problem with this method. I might add that i leave the bars in the boxes but just open both ends.

4. I always recommend car covers as they keep all of the shit off of the paint and if it is outside it makes it a breeze to brush off the car. They usually run about 35 dollars for a decent cover and are worth the investment way more than a tarp.

5. Crack the 2 front windows about 1/2 inch when stored in the garage to provide ventilation and any prevent stale odors , usually outside i recommend just cracking the windows enough to vent but not leak.

6. make sure your fluids are good before storage and when it comes time to drive it again change the oil and filter, i usually change it before the first time i drive it.

When i come up with more i will add things but feel free to comment.

I will post pics tomorrow :mrgreen:

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No harm really other than maybe a bad battery at worse . but i still recommend a float, trickle charger to keep the battery fully charged and warm during the time it is not used. Not only that but it is nice to just get in and turn the key, not to mention radio presets, DIC settings, and Idle relearn

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I leave my batteries connected all winter in the Luminas, and so far I've never had a problem and I've been storing them for 4 years now.

 

On my old cars, I have these things called "battery buddies" that go in line, and there is a little knob that screws out with connects/disconnects the battery. I disconnect my old cars all the time even during the summer if they are going to sit for a couple of weeks or so.

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i appreciate the info i have my vert sitting for the first time this winter and i plan to keep sitting it during these brutal chicago winters and i will use a lot if not all this information.

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Before I put my cars away, I also change the oil/filter in them and put a full tank of gas with Sta-Bil in them. Reason for the the oil changes is because after oil gets wear and tear on it, it starts getting dirty (obviously). When dirty oil sits in the oil pan for an extended period of time, it is more likely to become filled with condensation and, when left long enough, can turn to a sludge-like substance (this is for storing for a year or more, and if it's real dirty). So what I usually do is change my oil in October, drive the car about 500 miles or so, then put it away. Then in the spring, I take the cars out and usually put 500-1k miles on then change it. To break the mileage down, between usually between April and October I'll hit 3k, and from October - April I do between 1k-2k so this works for me.

 

We all know what happens to gas when it gets old. But what I found interesting after doing some research is if the tank isn't left full, condensation can get in the tank and not only get in the gas itself, but rot the tank from the inside out.

 

One other thing I always do, put plastic or an old pool cover on the concrete floor in the garage. Even though the car may be inside, concrete still sweats and produces moisture. The plastic prevents it from coming up and sitting on the underside of the car.

 

This is all what I've read in places like Hemmings and things over the years. There are many different ways to set up a car for winter, but you have to remember, between my dad's cars and mine I store 9 cars for the winter. Each spring they come out in A1 shape. Hopefully some of my process helps; it's what works for me.

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I run the car through the winter.

 

When I say run, I start the car back it out, let it idle for a while and then while in park rev the engine up to 3,000 R.P.M. and leave it there for a minute or two. If it's clear and not salty out, I'll drive the car around a little, a very little since it's not insured.

 

I usually start by leaving the car running in the garage with the garage door shut, it allows the car to get warmed up before I move it outside.

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Before I put my cars away, I also change the oil/filter in them and put a full tank of gas with Sta-Bil in them. Reason for the the oil changes is because after oil gets wear and tear on it, it starts getting dirty (obviously). When dirty oil sits in the oil pan for an extended period of time, it is more likely to become filled with condensation and, when left long enough, can turn to a sludge-like substance (this is for storing for a year or more, and if it's real dirty). So what I usually do is change my oil in October, drive the car about 500 miles or so, then put it away. Then in the spring, I take the cars out and usually put 500-1k miles on then change it. To break the mileage down, between usually between April and October I'll hit 3k, and from October - April I do between 1k-2k so this works for me.

 

We all know what happens to gas when it gets old. But what I found interesting after doing some research is if the tank isn't left full, condensation can get in the tank and not only get in the gas itself, but rot the tank from the inside out.

 

One other thing I always do, put plastic or an old pool cover on the concrete floor in the garage. Even though the car may be inside, concrete still sweats and produces moisture. The plastic prevents it from coming up and sitting on the underside of the car.

 

This is all what I've read in places like Hemmings and things over the years. There are many different ways to set up a car for winter, but you have to remember, between my dad's cars and mine I store 9 cars for the winter. Each spring they come out in A1 shape. Hopefully some of my process helps; it's what works for me.

 

Very nice!!!

 

Pretty much what we do to store the Monte.

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Yep, I forgot to mention that. Before I had a life, I used to start the cars once a week. But that was back before school, work and a gf, plus when we only used to store 2 cars.

 

Now, I start 7 of 9. Two of them are in a heated warehouse and I cannot access them from October 25-May 10. The others I usually drive for the last time mid-late November, then start them before Christmas, then usually Feb 1 or so, then third week of March. By then, the weather is nice enough in April when they all hit the roads again.

 

Some sources say to start them and not to...I think it's all personal preference. The two I don't run all winter run just fine in the spring, and the ones that I let run are the same as well. They say you can do more damage if you don't let the cars warm up enough...which is why I let mine run ~30 mins or so; that way everything gets warmed up nicely.

 

And you can bet if there's no salt, I'll zip the cars out around the block...insurance or no insurance. Although this year I left all of the cars on the road because I hate DMV and dealing with them in the fall/spring each year.

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That's what we do. This year we put the Monte away EARLY...like August 23rd early. My dad goes out to my aunt's where we keep it and starts it and lets it run for a good 20 minutes or so once or twice a month. And if it's dry and relatively salt free he'll take it for a spin. It always comes home fine. Some Sta-Bil in the full tank, windows cracked, cover on and she's good to go. We've put it there for the last, almost 5 years. Her garage has that Rustoleum garage floor coating, and the underside is as rust-less as it was when we got it :)

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  • 8 years later...

Been reading this thread and find it very interesting.  Since my Cutlass doesn't run yet there are some things I will and will not do.  Let me know what you guys think or maybe what I should change.

 

I'm going to change the oil and filter to prevent oil sludge, plus I don't know how old the oil is.  I like the Irish Spring soap bar idea so will probably do that.  I think I'm going to try the Bounce dryer sheets too.  I'll unhook the negative side battery and crack both windows to help ventilate the interior.  Tires are dry rotted so I don't think I'll do anything with them since they'll get replaced down the road.  They do all have good tire pressure.  I might buy a cover for it but not sure yet.

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I just put my GTP away for the winter a couple weeks ago. I took out the battery, put in the basement with a trickle charger. A few dryer sheets in the interior, and a cover. I did not worry about gas or oil. Honestly, I would wait until spring to change the oil. 

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I just put my GTP away for the winter a couple weeks ago. I took out the battery, put in the basement with a trickle charger. A few dryer sheets in the interior, and a cover. I did not worry about gas or oil. Honestly, I would wait until spring to change the oil. 

That sounds good, old oil in the motor will be ok then thru the winter?

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I just put my GTP away for the winter a couple weeks ago. I took out the battery, put in the basement with a trickle charger. A few dryer sheets in the interior, and a cover. I did not worry about gas or oil. Honestly, I would wait until spring to change the oil.

This is almost exactly my plan, except for me it's disconnected battery still in car but hooked to solar trickle charger, cover car.

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This is almost exactly my plan, except for me it's disconnected battery still in car but hooked to solar trickle charger, cover car.

I don't have a basement so I'll probably unhook the battery or if my buddy with a basement will let me, store it down there.

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I just don't like the battery sitting in the car all winter. A basement is a good spot for a battery. Leaving old oil in the engine over the winter, when the car won't be running anyway, wont hurt the engine. I do a once a year old change in the spring. I dont put many miles on my GTP either.

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I just don't like the battery sitting in the car all winter. A basement is a good spot for a battery. Leaving old oil in the engine over the winter, when the car won't be running anyway, wont hurt the engine. I do a once a year old change in the spring. I dont put many miles on my GTP either.

Thanks, that will be my game plan now.  I just want to make sure I'm doing things properly and don't want to damage my baby!  It's getting cold now here in Iowa so I'll have to wait until spring to start on her again.  Plus, I need to get my 87 GMC Sierra done first.

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I did a few of these things to my Vert and coupe last winter but this year I`ll probably start the Vert up once or twice a week and take it around on the good days. Instead of storing it in the garage this year I got a good cover for her and will keep it on asphalt under the carport. Ill have the coupe in the garage instead to finish what I started a few years ago.

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I did a few of these things to my Vert and coupe last winter but this year I`ll probably start the Vert up once or twice a week and take it around on the good days. Instead of storing it in the garage this year I got a good cover for her and will keep it on asphalt under the carport. Ill have the coupe in the garage instead to finish what I started a few years ago.

You must not have too bad of winters to be able to drive it around a little.  Iowa gets super cold minus temps and they use absurd amounts of road salt.  My girl will never get driven in the winter to protect her from the salt, snow storms, and ice storms.  I envy anyone who doesn't have to deal with it!

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I just put my GTP away for the winter a couple weeks ago. I took out the battery, put in the basement with a trickle charger. A few dryer sheets in the interior, and a cover. I did not worry about gas or oil. Honestly, I would wait until spring to change the oil. 

Store batteries COLD.  Bringing them in where it's warm is about the worst thing you can do short of allowing them to sit while discharged.  Chemical reactions slow in the cold.  A cold battery doesn't sulfate as fast as a warm one.

 

For the record, every "float charger" I know of is made in China.  I don't appreciate the fire risk of leaving a cheap-junk battery charger connected all winter, and likely unattended and forgotten for most of that time.

 

Change oil BEFORE storing the car.  Any acid in the oil will have all winter to erode the bearings.  Fresh oil has no acid.

 

That sounds good, old oil in the motor will be ok then thru the winter?

Depends on how contaminated the oil is.  As a rule, fresh oil is better for storage.

 

I did a few of these things to my Vert and coupe last winter but this year I`ll probably start the Vert up once or twice a week and take it around on the good days. Instead of storing it in the garage this year I got a good cover for her and will keep it on asphalt under the carport. Ill have the coupe in the garage instead to finish what I started a few years ago.

If you're storing the car...let it sit undisturbed.  You're not doing it any favors by firing it up every week.

 

If it pleases you to drive it on "the good days", fine.  Just don't think the vehicle is benefiting from it.  From the perspective of the vehicle, leave it alone until you're ready to drive it again in the summer...or whatever your reason for "storage" is finished.

 

There's a lot of nonsense about how the seals in the engine, or the transmission, or the whatever "dry out" if they're not bathed in oil now 'n' then.  Total silliness.

 

Car covers are an excellent way to destroy the paint, especially on all the creases in the body.  If wind moves the car cover, it abrades the paint underneath.  It's worst on the creases, because the folds in the metal concentrate the abrasion.

 

If you HAVE to put a fabric cover on the car, strap it down tight so it can't move in the wind.

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Ok, so I will not cover it since it will be in an unheated garage, I will unhook the battery but leave it in the car, still going to do the soap and dryer sheet thing, change the oil and filter and leave it undisturbed.  How's that sound?  Anything else?

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Last year down here we didnt see snow until late Jan maybe Feb and our southern cold is more like northern autumn time. Still at 45F I`m already thinking about Miami or Pensacola, this guy doesnt do cold at all. 

 

I think it would be hilarious to dress up like an RAF pilot from WW2 and drive around in it with the top down for those days with a high of 29F. So long as there wasnt salt on the roads, they oversalt down here like crazy if someones big toe predicts snow it seems like. If you do have to drive in the salt I was told to get one of those garden hose attachments for pesticide/fertilizer and put some Dawn soap in it then spray the underside, wheels and engine bay out really good. 

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Ok, so I will not cover it since it will be in an unheated garage, I will unhook the battery but leave it in the car, still going to do the soap and dryer sheet thing, change the oil and filter and leave it undisturbed.  How's that sound?  Anything else?

 

I would heartily insist on a bucket of dehumidifier chemicals underneath your car to soak up any moisture the concrete floor might weep out. Damp-rid its called down here and you can get them everywhere. When the temp goes up a bit when the humidity is high a concrete floor condenses water just like a windshield does.

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