crc Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 The Rear Strut Mounts ============== Anyone have an idea how much work is involved changing these? Right now I'm getting all kinds of racket from the rear. The struts themselves are fine but I'm guessing the mounts are almost gone. Oxygen Sensor ========== How to access? Do I have to remove the Alternator to reach it? Or is there an easier way to get at the exhaust manifold back there? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TGPilot Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 Well I am assuming that all W-body cars have the same rear strut assemblies. It is very easy to replace the strut mounts. There are two bolts that thread into the rear shock tower (no hidden nuts). Unbolt those two bolts with no weight on the car's rear suspension, pull the strut shock shaft down to access the nut that holds the shaft to the strut mount. Remove the nut and wahla...strut mount is off. You may just be hearing the strut shock protector boots bouncing on the strut as you are hitting bumps. As for the o2 sensor...I will assume that the o2 sensor is threaded into the rear exhaust manifold bank. The way that I access anything on the back of my TGP motor is to remove both upper torsion mounts (dogbones) rock the motor forward and secure it rocked forward (motorcycle tie down strap) that will give you very good access to anything to include spark plugs on the rear bank of the motor... 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaD Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 woo woo!! I can help out, finally! I was JUST asking Brian P about my rear suspension yesterday! And I started doing it so it's still fresh in my dome So anyways, to take the rear strut mounts off, you need to take out the rear struts. Loosen the back tire lug nuts, put car in neutral, block the front wheels, jack the car up, and set it up on jack stands. Do one side at a time, put a jack underneath the body-to-knuckle thing and make it so it won't budge (you don't need to jack it up that much, just a little bit) Remove the caliper dust sheild (held on by two 8mm bolts) Behind the Caliper, there are two 18mm bolts (the heads of the bolts face the middle of the car) that hold the caliper/disc on, remove those bolts and swing the caliper assembly and disc out of the way. (Don't disconnect any brake lines) Now, if you have an auxillary spring, that needs to be compressed, it's a piece of rubber that looks like an "8", there's a hole on top of that where you need to put a lubed bolt through and tighten it as much as possible until it won't budge, or if you have the tool to compress it, that works too. Anyways, now you'll have to remove the bottom strut bolts. The nuts are 24mm in diameter...have fun. Then, you need to take the actual bolts out, and since they're splined, you can't screw em out, get a hammer and tap em out. Ok, now, the last thing is the two 15mm bolts on the strut mount. Unscrew those and the entire strut will (should) come out. Now, to separate the strut from the strut mount, you'll need to take that 24mm nut off the top (pointy, shaft part) of the strut. Once you've done that, all you have to do reverse the process and repeat on the other side -MaD- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaD Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 Oops....I guess TGP beat me to it :oops: But I didn't know you can take the strut mount off without taking out the strut! :shock: Damn, Shows how much I know :? Oh well, this'll be archived for whoever needs instructions on how to take out the rear struts! I just learned how to do it last night As far as the o2 sensor, just follow TGP's directions, but the only thing I'd add in is that you can use the original bolt on the driver's side dogbone and thread it through the slave (it's towards the center) hole of the dogbone if you don't have that motorcycle strap stuff. Oh, and if your o2 sensor hasn't been changed since it was invented (like mine) I'd go to AutoZone and rent (it's free!) out one of those o2 sensor sockets (or buy one). It's pretty hard to get these damn things out with anything other than that socket. (I tried every adjustable/non-adjustable wrench I owned, there's no play between the firewall and engine and these bitches are on there tight!) That's prolly it.. -MaD- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPaganel Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 The slave hole trick only works on some W-bodies. Sometime in the early nineties (1992?) they changed the design and it isn't possible. Or so the manual says... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaD Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 but it should be fine since he has a 1990 cutlass supreme, right? -MaD- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc Posted August 30, 2002 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 Thanks for the replies, gents.. When you guys are talking about titling the motor you're really talking about just nudging it a bit forward, aren't u? That's about all it moves on mine but it is enough to get better access at the back. About the rear mounts, The procedure MaD described fits what I've read in the repair manuals. that is you're supposed to compress the rear leaf with a clamp (or something) I'm not sure if this is needed but I'm not a strut expert so what's the story on it? What does it take to install new mounts on the rear struts, safely? Oh, one more thing, that BIG nut on top of the rear strut assembly (in the trunk) Can you use a hand tool on it or do you need an impact wrench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted August 30, 2002 Report Share Posted August 30, 2002 The slave hole trick only works on some W-bodies. Sometime in the early nineties (1992?) they changed the design and it isn't possible. Or so the manual says... works just fine on my 94 and my 91 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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