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My rear window is coming loose


Human
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Over the past few months, I've noticed my rear window is hanging a little low on the passenger side and when I examined it more closely yesterday, I found that it is actually pulling loose to the point that I can slip my hand around the window and into the car. Nothing feels torn, so I think something has just slipped out of its channel maybe, but I know nothing about convertible tops. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'm really not ready to go down the duct tape trail yet.

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Sounds like you're gonna have to pull the pastic molding off the door and take a look. It's the only way. So, get your screw driver out, and get to it. 

Edited by GabsOlds
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On 10/16/2019 at 2:40 PM, Human said:

Over the past few months, I've noticed my rear window is hanging a little low on the passenger side and when I examined it more closely yesterday, I found that it is actually pulling loose to the point that I can slip my hand around the window and into the car. Nothing feels torn, so I think something has just slipped out of its channel maybe, but I know nothing about convertible tops. Any ideas on how to fix this? I'm really not ready to go down the duct tape trail yet.

Is the whole rear window panel loose, or has the glass come loose from the surrounding canvas that it is glued to?   Because the rear window curtain (the glass and the surrounding canvas that is parallel to the glass) does hang from a metal rod in the top mechanism and it can slide off.  Maybe post a picture of what the problem is and we can give you better advice, many of us have replaced convertible tops.   

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Ah! So, it's the glass that goes with the top. My bad. That window hangs from a fiberglass rod thats in the same "bag" that the glass is glued in. Then there are strips that run from the top of the glass to the middle of the roof. These are what actually carry the weight of the glass. Zoom into the picture in my signature, you should see the strips holding the rear glass. Maybe one or more got worn and broke. 

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What happened with my old top was that the rod wore a hole through the canvas "pocket" (or "bag" as GabsOlds calls it) at the top corner of the window curtain, so the rod slipped over to one side.   This caused the OTHER side of the rod to come out of its' pocket, so that end strap slid off the rod and the window slouched down on that side and opened up a gap.   

The way I fixed it was to lower the top halfway, which takes all the tension off the rear curtain.   Then, I was able to slide the rod back through the loop on the outer top strap, and back into both pockets properly.    I taped off the hole to prevent it from happening again and it stayed in place (for about a year or so, until I replaced the whole top).     

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Yes, the glass rear window is coming loose from the top along the right hand vertical edge. Oldmangimes: You were exactly right. That rod had slipped almost two inches toward the driver's side. Other issues at play here are that most of the staples have pulled out along the bottom of the rear curtain (nice to have proper vocabulary to use here) as well as on the sides (see photos, which were taken with the top up but unlatched at the windshield). I'd really like to not have to replace the top in the near future. It's in very good shape, other than these minor issues.

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Glad you figured it out. As for the base lifting at the staples, you can restaple it down, but my guess is the tack strip is dried up, and not holding the staples as well. What i did when i installed my new top was add strips of hard metal along the tack strip where the staples are, and secured them with small bolts that went through the body of the car. Preferably stainless bolts. That made for a solid attachment, and it's all hidden by the body coloured plastic covers. I am in Ohio, and my convertible is in Botswana 🇧🇼, so I can't get you pictures right now. I'll be in Botswana in December/January, but i once promised someone pictures, on a similar topic, but once I got to the tropics, i was enjoying the summer there too much! 🤣 🤣 

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Yeah Botswana is just about as far away from Ohio as you can get. The idea of the metal strip sounds like a good one. I look forward to seeing the photos if you remember to take them, but if that doesn't happen, I'll understand.

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  • 3 weeks later...

thanks for posting this...I have the same issue, I just thought it was the stitching that was bad. I don't drive with the top up very often, so I don't let it bother me.

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  • 6 months later...

Hey guys. I apologize for not posting the pictures for the staples/tack strip reinforcement. I did travel to Botswana last December/January. Sad to say, I had an accident. But it wasn't a write off. I'll discuss it in my own thread. 

I took a couple of pictures to show the reinforcement, but I was so down, I didn't have the will to remove the plastic piece to expose the tack strip. It's an involved process that requires reaching inside behind the back seat to undo 3 screws. I just didn't have it in me. So, the pictures are not very clear, but I hope you can make out the metal strip under the plastic, enough to understand the concept. 

 

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I have a strip at both c-pillars, and another by the 3rd brake light. Make sure the metal is filed/sanded smooth so it doesn't cut the top.DSC_3960.thumb.JPG.6d41e39cebfdc0752f95e0feea9ca032.JPG

Guys, I apologize for the delay, and for not removing the plastic covers to expose the tack strip. I didn't use stainless staples, and so they did rust. And I didn't apply the butyl sealant over top of the seam like I should have. So, reinforce the seam with metal strip, then add the butyl sealant, or whatever you choose to use to make the seam water tight. 

I hope this helps guys. 

Mabuza. 

Edited by GabsOlds
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8 minutes ago, Human said:

Thanks for the visuals. That really helps. Hope your accident wasn't serious and more importantly that you're okay.

You're welcome. I wasn't injured, thankfully. 

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I think I used M3 or M4 bolts with flat heads, going through the body, with flat washers and lock washers on the underside. A body man would probably paint or prime the hole to prevent rust, but that area is supposed to be sealed with butyl to waterproof it. Your call, but I think it'll be fine. 

Edited by GabsOlds
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