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3.1 Plugs and Wires


K&R
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I don’t know if anyone else has done this but thought I would share just in case. One way to change the plugs and wires on the 3.1 motor is to take just the alternator off and you have full access to the rear plugs. No rotating the engine as explained in the factory Manuel and no ratchet straps, which I’ve seen people do. 

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57BA83CA-EF75-4EAD-A286-09DE077A73F0.png

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Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*?

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12 minutes ago, Imp558 said:

Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*?

Yup.  Memphisman brought this to my attention and I checked on my car.  No notches so I'm assuming my hasn't been subjected to that.

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That's a trick for the LQ1, I don't see why it would ever be required on a 2.8/3.1.  You don't have to cut it either, just bend it slightly out of the way and then bend it back.

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I'm going to look thru some old threads and see what I need to do for mine.  I'm going to change out the wires/plugs when I do the LIM gaskets.  I really don't want to bend the metal lip.

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1 minute ago, digitaloutsider said:

With the right swivels and extensions (particularly wobbly extensions) you can get in there without doing it. 

That's good news!  I have a ton of extensions and swivels.  Along with my own tools, I inherited a whole bunch of other tools recently.

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6 hours ago, K&R said:

I don’t know if anyone else has done this but thought I would share just in case. One way to change the plugs and wires on the 3.1 motor is to take just the alternator off and you have full access to the rear plugs. No rotating the engine as explained in the factory Manuel and no ratchet straps, which I’ve seen people do. 

B677ACB1-A3C8-4B91-92FE-CA093B8DAAAB.png

A5ECAC5D-61C6-436C-9C92-535C2827E70B.png

57BA83CA-EF75-4EAD-A286-09DE077A73F0.png

I believe the radiator cap is the original one.  Not very common.  I also believe they used the same cap on the LQ1's.  At least for the 91 model years.

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Yeah, they used it until at least '93. Most have failed over the years and have been tossed in the trash. The later W car radiator caps (PN 10409635) fit the old stuff, and while they're uglier, they tend to hold up better. 

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9 minutes ago, digitaloutsider said:

Yeah, they used it until at least '93. Most have failed over the years and have been tossed in the trash. The later W car radiator caps (PN 10409635) fit the old stuff, and while they're uglier, they tend to hold up better. 

10-4.  I lucked out and took this one from the 89 International 3.1 parts car and put it on the 91 car.  I found this NOS one and bought it for the 93 STE.  I don't know if they are rare pieces but I always look for them in the yards.

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Looks like the STE has an aftermarket one.  Yuck.

JIUxjF.jpg

 

Edited by jiggity76
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44 minutes ago, jiggity76 said:

I believe the radiator cap is the original one.  Not very common.  I also believe they used the same cap on the LQ1's.  At least for the 91 model years.

Thats interesting. It was on there when I bought it. Lol Did they go bad often?  

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Just now, K&R said:

Thats interesting. It was on there when I bought it. Lol Did they go bad often?  

Not sure.  Since your car is a low mileage one, maybe that's why it still retains it.  My 89 International parts car is relatively a low mileage car too.  I stole it for the 91 car.

 

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Isn't there something about putting a couple notches in the front of the cowl that the seal hides to get useful trajectory with a bunch of extensions on a 60*?

Nate did that iirc, I just used a combo of extensions (on the LQ1), takes 10 minutes
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Slaving the engine forward is still quicker than that if you're easily able to do it. Removing the alt is a solid option as well though and doesn't take a whole lot more time when removed with the bracket attached.  They still make tools to help you pull the engine forward by the way. Thexton offers one. I would assume you should be able to locate some of the ones other brands used to offer years ago as well, several places made them. The dogbone has a hole for holding the engine forward if you reinsert the bolt by the way, I assume your manual should cover that.

Edited by mfewtrail
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6 hours ago, mfewtrail said:

Slaving the engine forward is still quicker than that if you're easily able to do it. Removing the alt is a solid option as well though and doesn't take a whole lot more time when removed with the bracket attached.  They still make tools to help you pull the engine forward by the way. Thexton offers one. I would assume you should be able to locate some of the ones other brands used to offer years ago as well, several places made them. The dogbone has a hole for holding the engine forward if you reinsert the bolt by the way, I assume your manual should cover that.

The book does explain it that way step by step but being relatively new to the W club and project car hobby I figured l would mess that up ,no doubt. The alternator way, the farthest plug is a little tricky but not terrible to get to. 

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Ratchet strap is easy.  Just don't roll the engine too far forward, and start putting pressure on the radiator hoses.

I am due a plug change too.  It's been a little bit over three years since I changed them.  Guess I will keep on using the ACDelco conventional plugs AC R44LTSM since they have been doing good.  New set of wires installed last plug change, so I hope they come off easy.  I did use dielectric grease on the boots.

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