89-W-Body-Regal Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Can someone help me find the knock sensor location? I need a photo of where it’s at. From this photo I don’t know if it’s on the passenger side or drivers side. Everyone told me it’s in the back of the engine near the exhaust manifold in the engine and it’s an 89 Buick Regal Edited January 14, 2019 by 89-W-Body-Regal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 They are correct. That's where it is. I imagine it's a huge bitch to get to with the auto trans in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 (edited) Fwiw, it's going to suck getting to the knock sensor. Remove the tire, remove the shield, and swear a lot! Imho, the last part is the most important. Also, you will need a special socket. Can it be removed without a special socket? Yes. You can also drain an Olympic-sized swimming pool using just a teaspoon. I've attached a picture of where it is on my LX5 engine. It's in a similar place on your engine. GM likes to try to keep sensors in the relative similar locations. Also, the picture below shows what the sensor looks like: Good Luck! Edited January 16, 2019 by Cutlass350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheatah faheatah Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 That's .... just ....EVIL ... 89-W-Body-Regal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 So like...is there a reason it couldn't be on the front of the block? 89-W-Body-Regal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89-W-Body-Regal Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) Holy shit no way I am going to be able to reach that without a lift. Don’t have one of my own. I guess I’ll have to take it somewhere. And I thought these engines were easy to work on. Smh fucking GM. Edited January 17, 2019 by 89-W-Body-Regal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89-W-Body-Regal Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 (edited) 19 hours ago, Cutlass350 said: Fwiw, it's going to suck getting to the knock sensor. Remove the tire, remove the shield, and swear a lot! Imho, the last part is the most important. Also, you will need a special socket. Can it be removed without a special socket? Yes. You can also drain an Olympic-sized swimming pool using just a teaspoon. I've attached a picture of where it is on my LX5 engine. It's in a similar place on your engine. GM likes to try to keep sensors in the relative similar locations. Also, the picture below shows what the sensor looks like: Good Luck! What’s that sensor above it? That’s what I touch when I put my hand back there. Edited January 17, 2019 by 89-W-Body-Regal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 38 minutes ago, 89-W-Body-Regal said: What’s that sensor above it? That’s what I touch when I put my hand back there. Oil pressure switch. 89-W-Body-Regal 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted January 18, 2019 Report Share Posted January 18, 2019 (edited) Fwiw, iirc, I had "okay/decent" access to the knock sensor when the half-shaft was out. I replaced the engine in my Olds in 2011. So, after the new engine was in, I had to hook the wiring back up to the sensors, and secure the wires. Yes, removing the half-shaft is "kinda" extreme to get to the knock sensor. However, if you have all of the right tools, it doesn't take a really long time to remove the front caliper, bracket, rotor, hub center nut, three bolts holding the hub to the spindle, them slide-hammer the half-shaft out. Maybe a 1-2 hours, depending on how familiar all of that stuff is (and having the correct tools!). Note, iirc, the center-nut for the hub takes somewhere around 180ft/lbs to put on. That also requires an appropriate torque wrench to put it back on. Fwiw, if someone hasn't properly removed a half-shaft before (with a slide-hammer and proper "fork"), they might want to reconsider. I've read about people cracking the tranny case, from prying against the case to pull the half-shaft out. I removed a half-shaft by prying against the tranny case once on my '92 Olds Achieva. One side came right out. When I went to do the other side, I was putting a reasonable amount of force against the tranny case, when my smarter inner self finally said "Stop This Foolishness!". Different trannys, different half-shafts, different tolerances all mean that half-shafts may come right out for some people, while for other people, prying against the tranny case would end in a bad way. Good Luck! Edited January 18, 2019 by Cutlass350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89-W-Body-Regal Posted January 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2019 (edited) On 1/16/2019 at 7:45 PM, ManicMechanic said: Oil pressure switch. I thought on the 2.8 the oil pressure switch is near of the oil filter housing? There is a sensor there to when. I looked. Edited January 25, 2019 by 89-W-Body-Regal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTP091 Posted February 2, 2019 Report Share Posted February 2, 2019 Yikes, it’s much easier on the LQ1. That’s a first... 89-W-Body-Regal, Amanita and Imp558 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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