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FS: 1990 Turbo STE 5 speed for parts - $800, Ann Arbor

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Well guys, I'm sick of trying to get my TSTE into a driveable state, so I'm giving up and moving on. :)

The reason I'm listing it for parts:

  • the rockers and rear frame rails are trash (i.e. completely rusted out)
  • the paint is trash
  • I don't have a title (because Rhode Island is trash and doesn't issue new titles for cars older than 2001)

What you're getting:

  • Original T25 turbo. I think 2 bolts are broken off in the downpipe flange
  • Crossover looks like maybe it was repaired once? Doesn't leak, in any case. I have SS braided flex joints sitting in a box somewhere
  • 3.1 VIN V block rebuilt 10 years ago with about 1000 miles on it, overbored to about 3.2 IIRC
  • 1.6 ratio rockers, LS6 springs
  • Crane H-260 cam
  • There is an oil leak somewhere, but I think it's the oil return hose. It's somewhere on the front of the block near the starter/oil cooler.
  • FFP underdrive pulley
  • Ford yellow-top injectors (~500 miles on them, currently installed)
  • Ford blue-top injectors (these were used and higher #age than the yellow tops, but it was too much fuel for this setup)
  • A few chips to play with. I have one tuned to the point where it drives alright, but you'll want to keep tuning it further because I never got all the kinks worked out, between the 5-speed and the cam and injector changes
  • Wideband O2 with the smart gauge pod thingy
  • Moates ALDL datalogging cable
  • I have the Moates chip burner.. somewhere???
  • High-torque starter from a 2nd gen
  • High flow cat, dual flowmaster 40 series with nice stainless tips. It fits on the car nicely, but the piping is all mismatched sizes and the welds could best be described as "practice" (though it doesn't leak). The 40s sound absolutely delicious.
  • Brand new yellow-top gel battery (jk I might keep this if it fits my truck 😆)


  • Getrag 282 with all the bits
  • I think the detent cover is leaking (the large black circular cover in the bellhousing)
  • Throwout bearing is trash (I have a new one)
  • Spec stage 3 6-puck clutch (might be trash due to Synchromesh leaking from the detent cover. I'd replace it with a full disc anyway, the 6-puck sucks for driveability)
  • Brand new master and slave cylinders with brand new SS braided hydraulic line
  • New spare clutch fork (though it was definitely bottom of the barrel of what was left)
  • Cutlass "dildo of power" shift knob


  • 34 mm front sway bar w/ Energy Suspension greasable poly bushings
  • KYB GR2's all around
  • Front strut tower braces: convertible brace and the GM performance brace for the 2nd gens
  • Energy Suspension poly front control arm bushings
  • Completely rebuilt front strut towers (bearing plates, bump stops, ball joints, upper mount, etc)
  • Uuh. Red lowering springs. I think they were a 1.5" drop. I think the mfg name is written on them, but I'd have to double check
  • New rear strut mounts
  • AWEB rear strut tower brace
  • Stock rear trailing arms and lateral links
  • Stock TSTE monoleaf with new knuckle pads
  • 94+ brakes front and rear
  • Goodridge SS braided brake lines
  • Crosslace wheels with 245/50s on them
  • New inner/outer tie rods
  • I think 3/4 wheel hubs/bearings are new. At least two were AC Delco and 1 was an ebay special (sketchy), not sure if I ever replaced the fourth
  • PM3 works fantastic, but it definitely needs an accumulator and/or pressure switch. Pump runs at least every minute or so without pressing the pedal
  • box of like 2 or 3 spare PM3s in various states of disassembly


  • Brand newly installed NOS front light bar (seriously, it is fucking mint)
  • NOS power antenna
  • New gas tank, POR-15'd
  • New fuel pump (stock spec)
  • NOS fuel pump float
  • HUD
  • Headliner is trash
  • Dash cracked, have a spare non-HUD dash (I think the dash pad in the car was also a non-HUD dash originally)
  • Sunroof
  • Two turbo instrument clusters, both with the usual problems (tach is way off), one is apart
  • Seats are pretty good, rear right part of the bench and rear right seatbelts have some dark stains. Carpet is so-so.
  • All the electronics work (other than the clusters)
  • That super hard-to-find decklid lip spoiler (unpainted)
  • Body is pretty straight and there's not actually any real rust above the rockers. Doors are good, hood has some surface rust and a small dent on the nose, fenders are good. Valence is cracked.

Car is not driveable right now and would need to be towed on a full trailer/flatbed. I started trying to remove the rust, and as a result, there is currently no place to mount the passenger side trailing arm. I could potentially ghetto-weld a bracket in place to reattach the trailing arm so that it could be thrown on a dolly, but I really would not recommend it.


I've been rebuilding this car since 2006 and the rust situation has finally pushed me to get rid of it. I stopped keeping track of costs once I hit $6k, and that was in like 2008. I have tons of receipts and paperwork and oddball spare parts.

I'll work on getting pictures. Posting it for sale is a big step for me, so I kinda just forced myself to sit down and do it, and thus am unprepared for pictures lol.









Edited by GutlessSupreme

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1 minute ago, Isaiah Brown said:

Does it drive? I have a 92 Cutlass Vert most of that good golden stuff can go into until I get my money right to L67 swap it..

Nevermind... I just re-read the post.. so so sorry about your car brother..

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On 11/16/2018 at 3:11 PM, Isaiah Brown said:

Does it drive? I have a 92 Cutlass Vert most of that good golden stuff can go into until I get my money right to L67 swap it..

For a parts car, this is perfect for you. From what I'm reading, the engine runs but needs to be dialed in, and it's a 5 speed, which would lend itself to something better with a blown 3800.

A good chunk of the car would bolt up to your 92 Cutty.

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