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coreylubahn

95Vert Audio Upgrade questions

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Since the people here are a plethora of great information I thought I would ask my questions here and avoid reinventing the wheel.

 

I used to be a huge car audio guy and have done many installs, but most were 20+ years ago. So I know what I'm doing, but I also know that every car has its own issues and I figured I better find them out now.

 

I have a 95 Cutlass Convertible and am looking to upgrade the stereo (deck, speakers, sub and amps). Full setup. What do I need to know? I know that I can go double din in the dash, which is cool. Front and rear speakers, how do I get to them and what do I put back in? Any recommendations for subs? I know as a convertible I won't get great bass, but the factory speakers don't even play bass I don't think, hehe. Finally, what steering wheel adapter works best? I want to retain both audio and HVAC control, if possible, is it? Thanks in advance!

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Do you have steering wheel controls? If so, do you want to keep them? If you do then you need the PAC SWC adapter. Door speakers are 5 1/4 and the rear is 6 1/2. On the rear, you have to be careful that the speaker's magnet isn't bigger than the indent on the body otherwise it won't fit right. As far as subs go, you can get good bass out of a convertible but it has to be a ported box. I would recommend a pair of 12 inch subs, and I would recommend that your total RMS for both are 700 watts or higher. I used to have 2 Alpine 12 inch subs in a Metra ported box (the prefab ones they sell at best buy) and I had no problems losing bass with the top down. The box was too tall to slide under the pouch but other than that you can pressurize the trunk with a ported box to still have bass despite the top being down. I ran mine at 500 watts out of a crappy Sony Xplod I paid $100 for.

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Wouldn't a 4th or 6th order enclosure be a better choice for a vert? Since the airspace in the trunk changes with the top up/down.

Never tried it so I wouldn't know. I do want to build a bandpass for my convertible. It would just be a matter of design. I wouldn't know how to do that.

 

Sent from my Moto G4 Plus using Tapatalk

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Yes, I have the Steering Wheel Controls and don't want to lose them. I read somewhere that the steering wheel controls for the climate control is tied in with the audio controls and won't work after the swap, is this true?

 

Any secret to getting at the door or rear panel speakers? Do the panels have to be removed to get to them or do the grills come off somehow? I am thinking about 5.25 components up front (easy swap, right?) and new 6.5 coaxs in back.

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Being strange I bought a restored original am/fm/cassette for my 93 and use a cassette adapter with mike to link my smart phone for music/hands free/GPS. (Have these in my 88 and 70 (with an 8-track to cassette adapter) also. Sounds much better than satellite radio and all of the steering wheel controls work.

 

Speaking of which my GTP also has a "device" (amplifier?) under and behind the radio. Anyone know what it is ?

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Yes, I have the Steering Wheel Controls and don't want to lose them. I read somewhere that the steering wheel controls for the climate control is tied in with the audio controls and won't work after the swap, is this true?

 

Any secret to getting at the door or rear panel speakers? Do the panels have to be removed to get to them or do the grills come off somehow? I am thinking about 5.25 components up front (easy swap, right?) and new 6.5 coaxs in back.

 

You would want to get this.

 

http://www.pac-audio.com/SWI/SWIAppGuide.aspx?appguideid=15&swiModel=All%20Other%20Models&swiYear=1995&swiMake=Oldsmobile&swiProduct=SWI-X&swiRadioManu=JVC&swiOptions=All%20models%20with%207%20pin%20connector%20(behind%20radio),%20air%20bag%20and%20Temp%20controls%20on%20steering%20wheel.

 

It's car and radio specific, you have to go on there to make sure what you buy is compatible with your radio as well as the clip on the car. IIRC, it's a 7 pin connector behind the radio. This keeps both your radio controls and the climate controls. You have to program the button functions when you do the aftermarket radio swap. There will be instructions with the PAC adapter.

 

There's no real secret to the rear door speakers. You have to take apart the car for that. The rear panels come off by taking off the trim for the "Basket handle", the coat hanger, a philips screw on the floor that holds on the trim by the door, and a hidden phillips screw in the lower part of the trip. Then disconnect the speaker and power window wiring at the clips and then you pull the panel. I think there's also an L bracket you have to deal with towards the back of the panel. 

 

Once the panel is off, the grille is plastic welded on or something of the sort. It's held exactly the way the grille is held on by the door panels. You have to figure out a way to release it and get the small ring off as well without breaking the 4 pins that you'll later have to use a screw or something similar to keep the grille. 

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