White92Cutlass Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 '92 Cutlass 3.1 liter engine won't crank about every other day. Battery is good (jump starting does nothing) and battery/starter connections are fine. Tapping on the starter does nothing. No chipped teeth on flywheel. Starter says no shims required. When it doesn't crank, I am able to turn the key on and start the car by getting under it and running a jumper wire between the leads on the starter solenoid. After doing this, I can turn the key on and off several times and it starts just fine. Car did this with the previous starter/solenoid installed and the starter tested good after I pulled it out and replaced it. If it was the starter solenoid, it wouldn't crank with a jumper wire- would it? Possible ignition issue? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I'm wondering if your neutral safety switch, on top of the transmission is out of adjustment. Try when it behaves like this moving the gearshift selector while attempting to crank...I'm betting you'll find a spot when you get around the R-N-D portion of the quadrant that the starter cranks...if so, adjust the alignment of the neutral safety switch. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Test for voltage at the "S" terminal of the solenoid while turning the key to "crank". This will be especially helpful if you can make the test while the starter won't crank. Strong voltage--keeping in mind that the heavy current draw of the starter will drop the battery voltage--is expected. If you have strong voltage, the problem is in the starter/solenoid, or in the heavy wire from battery to starter. Weak voltage (below battery voltage while cranking) signifies a defect in wiring, connections, or the internal connections of the ignition or neutral-safety switches. No voltage indicates a broken wire, putrefied connections, or out-of-adjustment neutral safety switch Leadfoot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White92Cutlass Posted January 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Thanks for the replies. When it wouldn't start, I shifted through all the gears repeatedly, but had no luck getting it started (it's starting fine now). Fried my voltage meter a while back- will probably go pick one up today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GabsOlds Posted February 16, 2016 Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Well, how did it go? Fixed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White92Cutlass Posted April 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2016 Well, how did it go? Fixed it? Sorry, hadn't been getting email notification of replies on any thread (should be fixed now). Car had been doing fine and I hadn't had time to mess with it and then the ignition control module went out on it. I pulled one from my parts Cutlass (the ICM on it was only a year-old when the tranny went out) and got it back on the road but then ended up buying another car. Haven't had time to mess with the Cutlass lately as I have been busy closing down our business and fixing up the new car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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