pshojo Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 So, i'm in process of rebuilding one of my cutlass's trying to decide what brakes to put on. For a DD that isn't driven hard, do the slotted/drilled brake rotors really make much difference? http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx Or would the normal rotors be just as good of a choice? http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/power-stop-oek-ceramic-brake-kits I am looking at doing the power stop pads, so the decision on which rotor is the only decision right now. I have decided to do the goodrich lines http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3671A0A0.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 I can't speak for anyone else but personally I do not like cross drilled rotors in a general use environment. Anywhere on the contact surface that has a place for rust to gather or a possible crack to form is not in ones best interest. In an off road short lived race environment they're fine, here where I live rust has to be put up with & I've seen cross drilled rotors that have begun to rot where the holes have been drilled into the contact surface. For pads (I'm assuming that you've a Gen 1) try to get the best all 'round pad that will give you the highest grip level for the fronts & rears (whether that be a carbon-metallic or similar), ceramics don't grip quite as well on the onset as carbon pads (they need to heat up to get into the prime working temp) but they don't dust up in the same manner that semis or carbons do, they're also somewhat softer on the rotors as they do not have any *metallic* in them but it's the metallic that provides the instant friction for better colder temp stops. Current friction levels are in the FF range or a combination of more than one range to allow different grip levels at different temps. Do some reading... an informed decision is better than a shot-in-the-dark. http://nucapbrakes.com/blog/2011/09/what-are-the-latest-trends-in-brake-friction-materials/ http://www.autoserviceprofessional.com/article/94030/Brake-pad-and-rotor-technology?Page=3 pshojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 If you order rotors online try to stick with a good brand name. I got a rotor from Rockauto that was suck a piece of crap it never went on the car. rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 So i was looking at brakes on line, of course I can't seem to find the brake companies don't advertise these numbers. Making this more confusing.. http://www.powerstop.com/products/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/10A50530.aspx Here is the link for auto everything search Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted October 31, 2015 Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 Try Rockauto for good prices, just try to stick with a brand name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 So there is t big difference in brakes with brand nsme Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Really probably not going to be much difference slotted vs non-slotted. I wouldn't pay extra for them on a DD. I just put some of the factory ACDelco slotted rotors on the front of my brother's GP. He does race it and they're visible on the open 5 spoke wheels, but they do make constant noise driving when not on the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Descent brand anyway, cheap rotors are no bargain in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 As someone thats ran all three it doesn't matter what type of rotors its all about the pads. I have powerstop on my car now but i miss my bendix ct-3 pads. For rotors check out r1 concepts. Make sure to check around for their coupon codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Do you think you get firmer pedal or better stopping with the CT3 versus power stop. Ever run performance friction? Seems they are in sane price range and not ceramic. I think I heard our police dept runs these but definitely has dust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Better stopping yes and less fade with a ceramic for sure. Firmer pedal not so much. Never ran performance friction before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 For rotors check out r1 concepts.How long are rotors expected to last on a Gen1? I paid $85 for my cross-drilled/slotted R1s from Cali, mated them to semi-metallics, and was disappointed they lasted less than 30,000 miles and were too thin to be turned. At the time, new rotors ran me $11 and turning them costed $8. Put slotted rotors off my sedan on there now, w/ ceramics. White wheels & ceramic pads are a good combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 how long they last. that can be tough... depends on your driving habits, how much in town driving you do. 30k miles isn't too bad. i've done 40k on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 Also complicated by location. If you frequently drive through an area with a lot of steep hills your rotors will likely warp before any significant wear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 1, 2015 Report Share Posted November 1, 2015 ........ I'm somewhat alarmed if I don't get near 75K miles out of a rotor.... but there isn't a whole lot of stopping/slowing compared to just sitting at 55 where we live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Virtually all brake rotors come from Communist China. Some are poor, most are horrible. The name-brand ones are poor. The off-brand/store brand ones are horrible. Virtually all expensive drilled/slotted/milled/blessed brake rotors start out as the same poor or horrible Communist Chinese rotors you can buy cheap, except that someone has pushed them through a milling machine and then loaded them into a custom-printed cardboard box--and moved the decimal point on the price tag. NO, I don't pay extra for drilling/slotting/blessing of brake rotors. I look for properly-designed fins between the braking surfaces, and thick braking surfaces (less air gap between them.) I wouldn't buy Chinese rotors at all...if there were any options. I've put Performance Friction pads on the last four cars I've done the brakes on. So far...so good. At least the PF pads are Made in USA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 NO, I don't pay extra for drilling/slotting/blessing of brake rotors. I look for properly-designed fins between the braking surfaces, and thick braking surfaces (less air gap between them.) The only way to really know how the rotors are designed is by looking at them physically, this mean that buying something online could be tricky What experiences with brands have you had? I've always assumed you get what you pay for. I like the rotors that have a coating over the hat portion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Go4DaMo Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Can you buy OEM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Or am I over thinking this? My dad had 98 regal, I wish my cutlass would brake like this car, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadfoot Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 for DD duty, no way. They wear your pads down faster and don't help stopping any. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I've always assumed you get what you pay for. When dealing with parts sourced from the Damned Communist Chinese, you are doing VERY WELL if you get what you paid for. In most cases, you get screwed. N-O-B-O-D-Y goes to China to get better quality. Companies go to China to get cheaper product. The consumer generally takes it in the ass. Knowing that they're going to be cheated, they insist on lower prices, which The Corporate World has mistakenly assumed means that consumers want rock-bottom pricing even if it means sacrificing quality. The cycle repeats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 So, i'm in process of rebuilding one of my cutlass's trying to decide what brakes to put on. For a DD that isn't driven hard, do the slotted/drilled brake rotors really make much difference? http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A5870A0A0.aspx Or would the normal rotors be just as good of a choice? http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/power-stop-oek-ceramic-brake-kits I am looking at doing the power stop pads, so the decision on which rotor is the only decision right now. I have decided to do the goodrich lines http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A3671A0A0.aspx I've had very good luck with Advance Autoparts Wearever Platinum professional ceramic pads. I think they grip better than Advance Autoparts semi metallic pads, minimal dust and no more warped rotors. This will be my fist time using cross drilled rotors. I drilled my own using Advance Autoparts rotors, they do make a whirring sound when on the brakes hard. I only hear it when the windows and/ or the top is down and only when on the brakes hard, otherwise I don't notice it. My old '90 Regal went through rotors in six months with NAPA semi metallic pads as well as our 2000 Grand Cherokee with the factory pads. My Police Dept. uses police approved pads and rotors from NAPA. The rotors are zinc plated all over. I'm not sure if they are available for the first gen as I wonder if any were equipped for police duty. I will check with the City mechanics about the wear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 cheap, lifetime warranty parts-store pads tend to be a very hard compound, makes for short rotor life and less than stellar grip. if you really wanted to.... zinc electroplating isn't too complex to DIY, though I don't think there would be that much benefit to it on the friction surface.... the other surfaces to prevent rusting, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 cheap, lifetime warranty parts-store pads tend to be a very hard compound, makes for short rotor life and less than stellar grip. if you really wanted to.... zinc electroplating isn't too complex to DIY, though I don't think there would be that much benefit to it on the friction surface.... the other surfaces to prevent rusting, yes. Zinc plating on the friction surface is gone by the time the pads have bedded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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