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dodgethis

3100 Oil Pan Removal

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Hello Everyone!

 

It has been a long time since I have posted on this forum. I was unemployed for at least 4 months, and during the first month of unemployment I overheated the Chevy Lumina, and I had it towed home to prevent further damage. I bought a second vehicle as the new job was going to have a longer commute time. The Lumina has sat in the garage, and I have wondered if it was worth to fix, or send it to the junk yard. I decided to keep it, and learn from what I did wrong, and so the adventure has been fun. I have removed the heads, and had them checked, cleaned and surfaced. The Lower Intake manifold gaskets were completely blown. I noticed the lower intake manifold had pitting around the coolant jackets, and I bought another one from a yard to prevent possible failure when I put everything back together.

 

While I have the motor torn completely down. I am wanting to know how to remove the oil pan, and replace the gasket. I have read some people have suggested pulling the motor out. I am optimistic as I have read someone managed to tilt the pan in order to remove it. I have pulled the 10MM bolts that are around the pan, but still finding a way to get at the bolts on the side of the pan. The pan sits on the mount. I am looking for suggestions on the best way to continue forward to remove it. Does anyone have a write up? I have removed the A/C compressor, the Starter, the transmission bracket, Starter Fly-Wheel Cover, oil-filter windage tray, and the passenger side motor mount is un bolted.

 

Pictures to follow soon.

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Indeed it's way easier to do with the engine out and on a stand (just put a fresh oil pan gasket among lots of other new gaskets and such on my 94k L36 going into my wife's LTZ). I haven't done one on a 3100, but on both of my 3800 LTZs, I've had to support the engine from above with a support bar and drop the cradle to do it. It was a lot of work to do but it was otherwise impossible to get the pan out due to the pickup tube sticking down into the pan.

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The 'official' method, which I am going to attempt in a few weeks, is to use an engine support bar (ie: like this one I picked up from Minneapolis Harbor Freight -- http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html) to support the engine from the top, while disconnecting the starter, steering rack pinch bolt, engine mount bolts, and a few other items. Remove the front bolts from the subframe, and partially remove the aft subframe bolts. Eventually you will have enough access to remove it.

 

AFAIK, without supporting the engine from up-top and at least partially dropping the subframe, there's no other way of doing it aside from engine removal.

 

Here's the relevant pages of the manual for the 3.1 LH0. Might not be the same for your newer "3100", but here it goes:

 

xmttw3.jpg

 

2cxuuzl.jpg

Edited by pitzel

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The 'official' method, which I am going to attempt in a few weeks, is to use an engine support bar (ie: like this one I picked up from Minneapolis Harbor Freight -- http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html) to support the engine from the top, while disconnecting the starter, steering rack pinch bolt, engine mount bolts, and a few other items. Remove the front bolts from the subframe, and partially remove the aft subframe bolts. Eventually you will have enough access to remove it.

 

I worked around having to remove the 'Bitch' (pinch) bolt by instead getting to the (slightly) easier to get at rack-to-cradle bolts. After I had those out I wire-tied the rack to my engine support bar so it would not fall down and mess up the intermediate shaft. Remember though this was for a Lumina with a 3800 engine... again I can't speak for what's required for a 3100.

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3100 is a little trickier due to the horizontal pan bolts that are also part of the 4 bolt main bearing caps. front side isn't an issue, but the firewall side has the transmission to take up precious space, requiring an adapter to remove/install.

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I am in the process to remove the engine and transmission. I have taken out the 35mm Axel nut, and wondering the best way to pull out the CV axels. I have read there are rivets that need to be drilled out, and I think I see them after the dust plate that has be taken off. I have also taken off the bolt that holds the ball joint together. Is a BFH all that's needed to smack the threaded shaft out to release the control arm?

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I worked around having to remove the 'Bitch' (pinch) bolt by instead getting to the (slightly) easier to get at rack-to-cradle bolts. After I had those out I wire-tied the rack to my engine support bar so it would not fall down and mess up the intermediate shaft. Remember though this was for a Lumina with a 3800 engine... again I can't speak for what's required for a 3100.

 

On the 3.1 (not the 3100), the pinch bolt was no big deal. Nothing that a 15mm wrench and a flexible head ratchet with a 15mm socket couldn't handle with relative ease. Only had to remove the pinch bolt associated with the steering gear to subframe. Had to use a pry bar to push the rack down to get it back in, but other than that, it lined up like a dream.

 

I didn't have to touch any of the intermediate shaft stuff, thankfully.

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On the 3.1 (not the 3100), the pinch bolt was no big deal. Nothing that a 15mm wrench and a flexible head ratchet with a 15mm socket couldn't handle with relative ease. Only had to remove the pinch bolt associated with the steering gear to subframe. Had to use a pry bar to push the rack down to get it back in, but other than that, it lined up like a dream.

 

I didn't have to touch any of the intermediate shaft stuff, thankfully.

 

Well, I managed to take the hub bearing off, and the manual states to put a flat blade tool, and pry against the frame to release the CV axels. I am bummed out, because I thought I had figured it out. I have pryed with one hand and pulled with other, and cannot get the driver side axle to let go.

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On the 3.1 (not the 3100), the pinch bolt was no big deal. Nothing that a 15mm wrench and a flexible head ratchet with a 15mm socket couldn't handle with relative ease. Only had to remove the pinch bolt associated with the steering gear to subframe. Had to use a pry bar to push the rack down to get it back in, but other than that, it lined up like a dream.

 

I didn't have to touch any of the intermediate shaft stuff, thankfully.

 

Seemed a little bit more difficult to get at it for me at the time, (felt ok removing it would go ok, but getting that bolt back in looked to be the bigger challenge), so I determined undoing the rack to cradle bolts and popping the rack out of its mounts, and wiring it up up to my support bar with the rack hung up in position height-wise so as to not disturb the intermediate shaft too much.

 

I put a new rack on the red Lumina just recently with the engine/trans out (should be pretty easy in theory) but I had a heck of a time getting the shaft end onto the new rack to go down in far enough to insert the pinch bolt. Put some grease on it and after a little persuasion/wiggling it finally slid into place. Might've been a one-time thing with that particular rack that it was tough to get seated, but certainly would be a challenge had I been doing it under the car with the drivetrain in and cradle partially dropped.

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Well, I managed to take the hub bearing off, and the manual states to put a flat blade tool, and pry against the frame to release the CV axels. I am bummed out, because I thought I had figured it out. I have pryed with one hand and pulled with other, and cannot get the driver side axle to let go.

 

I've had luck getting those out using a big slide hammer with one of those crow-foot axle tools on it. Can't remember exactly what all I had to move out of the way to use it on the drivers side, but once I was able to get the tool in, it took a few hits and rotating the axle around to various positions until I found that sweet spot that the axle popped out.

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I have uploaded photos with my current progress working on the engine. I am in the process to remove the cv axels.

 

post-3822-143689182724_thumb.jpg

This is pitting that I found under the lower intake manifold. I found another one at a junk yard for cheap. I didn't want to take another chance and use RTV sealant to correct it.

 

 

post-3822-143689182736_thumb.jpg

 

CV axle is being a Pain in the Ass to pull out. I removed the Hub Bearing. Is it worth pulling the whole knuckle out?

 

 

post-3822-143689182743_thumb.jpg

 

Another photo of the CV axel

Edited by dodgethis

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I've had luck getting those out using a big slide hammer with one of those crow-foot axle tools on it. Can't remember exactly what all I had to move out of the way to use it on the drivers side, but once I was able to get the tool in, it took a few hits and rotating the axle around to various positions until I found that sweet spot that the axle popped out.

 

Thanks for your suggestion LumiLTZ. I'll try the crow bar, and if doesn't work I'll try the slide hammer route. A stop by harbor freight will be fun.

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i thought my LIM pitting was bad, yours is actually scary-bad. mine only covered ~1/4 of the area yours appears to. I would definitely second the acquisition of another manifold.

 

Thanks, I felt 40 Dollars was well worth spent rather than wondering if RTV would fail.

 

post-3822-143689182769_thumb.jpg

 

What is this sensor that is in the center from the block?

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there are a couple of things in the center of the block on the front side: knock sensor, oil pressure switch come to mind. in your picture, it looks like the knock sensor is to the left of the dipstick tube and oil pressure switch is to the right.

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Well,

 

Over the Memorial weekend, I was able to rip the engine and transmission out.

 

image_zpswxee7xo7.jpg

 

Front Bumper taken off:

 

image_zpswwcbley9.jpg

 

 

Inside the Bay:

 

image_zpsrsrv9ndl.jpg

 

 

 

 

Front bumper taken off:

 

 

image_zpskil1n7nw.jpg

 

 

It is time to get to work, I plan on replacing gaskets, and put all back together before reinstalling it into the engine. I should have emptied the transmission fluid, as it was a mess after the cv axels were pulled. :lol:

Edited by dodgethis

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Could anyone give any tips as to watch out for when separating the transmission from the motor? I have herd of concerning thoughts that if the torque converter is not lined up correctly, it will grenade the transmission. I thought I could keep the transmission connected to the motor, however the last two side bolts holding the oil pan on, is between the side of the motor and transmission. I need to take it off, as a 3/4 ratchet wrench barley squeezes in between the two.

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