Jump to content

Oil pan gasket and bearing inspection


pitzel
 Share

Recommended Posts

Okay two questions here:

 

1) I bought an oil pan gasket (Fel-Pro) in which the included instructions say to use no additional sealers. However, the GM factory service manual says to apply sealer (ie: RTV) at certain spots. Which should prevail?

 

29wppg8.jpg

 

2) When I have the pan off, is there any harm in removing the lower bearing caps (ie: one at a time) to inspect the bearings for wear/scoring/etc.? Being sure, of course, to re-install and re-torque appropriately? As many here may know, I am doing a sort of 'experiment' with the engine in not changing oil for extreme distances/times and want to take some pictures to prove (or disprove, or prove that I'm an idiot) that very long oil changes (ie: 40k miles) can be done on these engines without chewing up the bearings or causing a sludge monster.

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if i were to pull main bearings.... I highly doubt I would be sticking the original ones back in. same goes for rod bearings, if you wanted to go that route as well. they're too cheap to not just outright replace if you have the pan off and have the peace of mind that new bearings bring.

 

but, if you wanted to.... I don't see why you couldn't.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In your experimenting would using an upgraded oil pump work better for you? Looking in the AZ system there is an option for the 3.1 to get a pump that says it has a 20% increase in capacity. As much as my car enjoys oil changes I don't think I`ll deter away from my normal routine, plus while its draining I can check everything else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're using the GM gasket, use the sealer in the GM-specified place. Using an aftermarket gasket? Use the aftermarket procedure.

 

 

You can inspect all but the thrust main bearing without too much problem. You will want to re-torque to factory spec. Disturbing the thrust main will require you to re-align the bearing half just as if you were assembling the engine--by pushing the crank lengthwise so the transmission-side of the thrust bearing is aligned properly. Not difficult, but easily forgotten or done incorrectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...