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ron350

Fuel pump damper?

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Neither.

 

I always use the damper, even if i use the "bosch turbine upgrade" pump (a very good reliable pump) that says you don't need to. Its' seals appear to be made of silicone rubber and do not degrade, so you would only need to replace one if damaged. And I trust it more than using a piece of hose and two cheap worm gear clamps that you can't reach without dropping the tank if they come loose.

 

Do make sure the tiny triangular rubber spacer that goes between the pump and the pulsator is reinstalled, or the pulsator will not seal.

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Neither.

 

I always use the damper, even if i use the "bosch turbine upgrade" pump (a very good reliable pump) that says you don't need to. Its' seals appear to be made of silicone rubber and do not degrade, so you would only need to replace one if damaged.

Agreed. It doesn't need to be replaced if it's not obviously damaged/defective.

 

I trust it more than using a piece of hose and two cheap worm gear clamps that you can't reach without dropping the tank if they come loose.

While I technically agree with you, there are other options besides using the crappiest hose clamps on Earth.

 

The hose needs to be "special" rubber that will withstand being submerged in gasoline. There's a particular SAE spec for this: SAE 30R10

http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/fuel-system/submersible-fuel-line-hose

 

Of course, I use "fuel injection" hose clamps that don't promote rubber extrusion through the "slots" of a worm-gear hose clamp.

 

The two together--proper hose and proper clamps--are a proven solution when a fuel pump with minimal pulsation is used.

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While I technically agree with you, there are other options besides using the crappiest hose clamps on Earth.

 

The hose needs to be "special" rubber that will withstand being submerged in gasoline. There's a particular SAE spec for this: SAE 30R10

http://www.gates.com/products/automotive/passenger-car-and-light-truck/fuel-system/submersible-fuel-line-hose

 

Of course, I use "fuel injection" hose clamps that don't promote rubber extrusion through the "slots" of a worm-gear hose clamp.

 

The two together--proper hose and proper clamps--are a proven solution when a fuel pump with minimal pulsation is used.

 

I concur. Fuel line style hose clamps and a hose that can take the submersion in gasoline and high line pressure are required. Utilizing the bosch fuel pump (pulsator not required) with a pulsator has no ill effect, and means I may not have to source the hose clamps or the correct hose.

 

I rechecked, the bosch pump comes with a hose and fuel injector type clamps:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-electrical-fuel-pump-kit-69223/20770241-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986%7CL3*15378

 

six of one half a dozen of the other. I prefer the pulsator still.

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Officially the factory service manual says (paraphrased) that the 'test' on the fuel pump pulsator is to shake it, and if you can hear the sound of fuel sloshing, it has failed and should be replaced.

 

I changed mine when I replaced the fuel pump last summer. I've heard of people having starting issues if they leak, and I've read that the rubber in the original ones isn't as resistant to ethanol-blended fuel as it should have been (especially pertinent since they're pushing at the 10% ethanol blend limit in much of the country these days). They're not much money if you order from Rockauto or similar, and doing the tank is enough of a PITA that it seems silly to try and save $20.

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FWIW, the AC Delco-branded fuel pumps for this application actually come with a piece of the immersion-rated pipe (with a purple stripe), and a pair of worm-drive-style clamps. Not saying that AC Delco is exactly the official 'authority' in what's acceptable, but that's what they're supplying if you order their kit.

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FWIW, the AC Delco-branded fuel pumps for this application actually come with a piece of the immersion-rated hose (with a purple stripe),

FIFY.

 

 

and a pair of worm-drive-style clamps. Not saying that AC Delco is exactly the official 'authority' in what's acceptable, but that's what they're supplying if you order their kit.

Yup. Best practice would be to chuck the worm-gear clamps in favor of another style that isn't so damaging to the hose (or use the pulsator, if applicable!)

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Thanks I finally found that fuel pump spacer when I looked up 3100 w-bodys. I will have to wait till I pull my fuel pump before ordering any parts because my 96 Regal shows different part numbers.

 

My car shows an AC Delco EP375 fuel pump and about every thing else shows EP378 fuel pump?

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I've seen that before, but here's the scoop:

1996 BUICK REGAL 3.1L V6 :

AIRTEX Part # E3265

BOSCH Part # 69223

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # SP1117

CARTER Part # P74037

DELPHI Part # FE0113 *****

DENSO Part # 9515003 *****

ACDELCO Part # EP378 *****

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # SP09D1H

DELPHI Part # HP10009

AUTOBEST Part # F2276

PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC Part # P240KC

PRECISE Part # 402P3265

RETECH Part # AFS0207P

TYC Part # 152005

 

 

 

1996 BUICK REGAL 3.8L V6 :

AIRTEX Part # E3265

BOSCH Part # 69223

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # SP1117

CARTER Part # P74037

DELPHI Part # FE0110 *****

DENSO Part # 9515014 *****

ACDELCO Part # EP375 *****

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # SP09D1H

DELPHI Part # HP10009

AUTOBEST Part # F2276

PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC Part # P240KC

PRECISE Part # 402P3265

RETECH Part # AFS0207P

TYC Part # 152005

 

all aftermarket pumps are interchanged between both versions of the car except:

DELPHI

DENSO

ACDELCO

these pumps are dimensionally the same and I saw somewhere that the acdelco pumps actually interchange by part number? Maybe it's time to find the specifications on the pumps?

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In the past, I've reused pulsators, though more recently I prefer to replace them because dropping the tank has become increasingly less fun the older I get.

I think you would be fine leaving it out and replacing with a piece of hose. You'd probably just hear more fuel pump noise. I just feel better with it because you know the GM of the 80s and 90s. If they could have eliminated it and saved a few cents, they would have. Therefore, they thought it was worth having.

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OK I finally got around to pulling the gas tank and remove the pump assembly.

I noticed that the original tank o-ring is special having a lip that hangs down inside the tank holding the o-ring in place when assembling.

 

Do I need to buy this special original o-ring part # 10152293 or will the round replacement o-ring work?

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I noticed that the original tank o-ring is special having a lip that hangs down inside the tank holding the o-ring in place when assembling.

 

Do I need to buy this special original o-ring part # 10152293 or will the round replacement o-ring work?

 

I would clean and reuse the original O ring. I always have.

Inspect the original O-ring VERY carefully.

 

Many have a horde of tiny cracks that only become visible when the O-ring is gently stretched or flexed. The rubber deteriorates with time; and not all of them should be re-used.

 

The plain round O-ring is safe to use based on it's design. I'm not saying I like to use them--'cause I'm concerned that they may be sourced from The Evil Place, and made from substandard materials.

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Shurkey is correct the original o-ring with the lip is hard and has tiny cracks all around. I will try the round o-ring that came in the Delco pump kit and see what happens..

By the way the pulsator is still good the gas that shook out of it smelled rotten.

 

Wow getting that gas tank out was a bigger job than I thought it would be.

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Ive used several fuel safe O-rings from an assortment I found at AutoZone by Dorman for less than $10. I know on my car and a Grand Am GT I was working on awhile back I replaced the rear fuel rail O-ring where the fuel enters the rail system and they have held up thus far. I still have the old one I haven't thrown away yet and I`m curious to test this Lucas Fuel Injector treatment and lubricant. I was told by my DM that it will swell those O-rings and revive them similar to the way Syl-Glyde does on weather stripping rubber. I have a few bottles and will soak those O-rings in it and see what happens.

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