Arkin Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 hello from Ukraine, people I'm new here, as I'm new with W-body. Bought a 1993 Z34 coupe. Got some issues with my DOHC - it starts really tough, we thought we got starter or battery problems but when took off the transmission and tryed manually rotate the engine - it revealed there is some point where we have to apply much strength to pass it, then it goes smooth, but then again that tough point. We are going to open the engine to see what's up there of course but I keep a Plan B in mind. Plan B : we got a 1994 Trans Sport in town, 3.8L, so are there any issues to bolt that 3.8 into my coupe? I can get the engine and all stuff under the hood including computer. By the way, do I got a 4t60 or 4t60E in 1993 z34? thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drummer Posted December 2, 2014 Report Share Posted December 2, 2014 Welcome to the forum! Not sure if this symptom just occured or not, but I know when my dad bought his 93 Z34 Lumina the previous owners timed the cams incorrectly causing the starter to slowely kill itself trying to turn the motor over. Being a 93 your car has the 4T60E. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 Welcome to the forum!! Check the timing and check compression. 93s are somewhat tough to kill because they're not interference engines. 96 and 97 were and will bend valves if you don't time it right or let the timing belt go. There is many ways to swap in a 3800 engine, however it would be more wise to get a newer 3800 and convert the car to OBD2. Not sure how easy that would be in the Ukraine as GM didn't officially export many American cars to Europe since Opel is there and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkin Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 (edited) thanx for answers, men looks like the chain and tensioner are in bad shape there though still choosing between changing chain and all gaskets (without total rebuilding), giving the second chance to lq1, or to put 3.8 instead there are few questions 'bout 3.8 (series I) : 1) will I face the problem with bolting it on underframe, or other installation problems? 2) what about attaching my stock transmission to it? the 3.8 is from '94 transsport, the transmission is the same but there might be other transmission bell? 3) if I get all wiring and computer stuff with 3.8 - there is nothing to worry about electrics? thanx again Edited December 7, 2014 by Arkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 thanx for answers, men looks like the chain and tensioner are in bad shape there though still choosing between changing chain and all gaskets (without total rebuilding), giving the second chance to lq1, or to put 3.8 instead there are few questions 'bout 3.8 (series I) : 1) will I face the problem with bolting it on underframe, or other installation problems? 2) what about attaching my stock transmission to it? the 3.8 is from '94 transsport, the transmission is the same but there might be other transmission bell? 3) if I get all wiring and computer stuff with 3.8 - there is nothing to worry about electrics? thanx again 3800 bolt right in, if you are wanting to use a 4t60 use the donor trans, youll also need a 96 regal harness and a pcm tuned for ur gears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkin Posted December 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 And why not using the obd wiring from transsport? According to wiki, all transsports with 3.8 were equipped with 4speed automatic, so the obd has to be fine for my lumina too? If the transmissons are really the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted December 7, 2014 Report Share Posted December 7, 2014 The accesoriues on the transport are different from the Lumina. You can't connect the harness because the OBD system is used for other things, like SES lights, gauges, etc. You have to get the MEMCAL out of the donor car and put it in the computer box (Robert Saar can explain) and you need the 96 Regal harness if you're swapping to 3800 S2. If you're swapping to S1, you can use a 93 Regal. The reason for this is because of the connections with the C100. The wiring that goes there feeds the wiring in the cabin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsilney Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 Seems to me it would be easier to just replace the timing belt and tensioner. Unless I am.missing that you want to put the 3800in. Its a non interface motor for that year so there would be no damage to the valave train with a belt sliping..unless she is knocking it should be fine...I would think yiu woyld have a hard time sourcing parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted December 8, 2014 Report Share Posted December 8, 2014 if I were to L27 swap a LQ1 car.... I would just grab the entire C100 harness along with engine/trans from an identical year regal, that is going to be the least intensive way of going about it. very little electrical work would need done and the engine/trans would drop in place. start mixing too much stuff up and the calibration is going to need some serious rework to get it running/driving normally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkin Posted December 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 hello again ok I've forgotten bout swapping. Better fix the lq1 masterpiece I'm waiting for some parts, the main issue for now is set the correct timing. Seems like that was the only problem for previous owners I got AllData, it tells I need special tools to do that. 75$ averaged price for it, anyway I can't get it So I need info on how to adjust timing without it. Got some diagrams here. What else do I have to know? The piston upper dead points, right? What is the function of those triangular brackets called "special tool"? thanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted December 25, 2014 Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 The special tool locks the cams down in the proper position with cylinder 1 at top dead center (crankshaft timing mark lined up). Here is one on ebay with Ukraine listed for shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/KENT-MOORE-J-38613-CAMSHAFT-TIMING-CLAMPS-TOOL-SET-66-/251737403631?hash=item3a9cb7f0ef&item=251737403631&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr#shpCntId Both banks are not done at the same time. Tighten one bank's camshafts, remove the tool for that bank, rotate the engine 180 degrees back to TDC, and then tighten the cams on the other bank. Tightening both banks at the same time without rotating the engine 180 degrees will cause a best a 3 cylinder misfire, and at worst destroy the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsilney Posted December 25, 2014 Report Share Posted December 25, 2014 http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50684 I used this link and made my own hold downs. Piece of bar stock and a bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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