derkach99 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Hello, My read windshield has a leak in the right drivers side corner when the car is sitting still during a rain storm. I am hoping to leave the glass seated and patch it with some silicone but I am told that the only way to patch it is to re-seat the glass. I am very concerned of this because apparently if this glass breaks the car is the right off. Has anyone come across this problem before? How should I approach this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 It depends on the size of the gap at the window, if you can push it and it moves then I would have the window removed and re sealed properly. But if its just a little drip I would patch it with the same urethane sealant if you can get some from an autoparts store. I had my front windshield held in by silicone for awhile but eventually the windshield/window will loosen up so try and use urethane. Any place that replaces auto glass will be able to pull out the rear window, reseal it and put it back in if you do not want to attempt yourself. Since you are not replacing the window it shouldn't cost as much. I would have the window pulled out and all the old sealant removed, then you can check and fix any rust or other issues that having the window out would make easier then re seal and re install. Having that rear window out make it a hell of a lot easier to clean the corners of the window and the speaker deck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 It depends on the size of the gap at the window, if you can push it and it moves then I would have the window removed and re sealed properly. But if its just a little drip I would patch it with the same urethane sealant if you can get some from an autoparts store. I had my front windshield held in by silicone for awhile but eventually the windshield/window will loosen up so try and use urethane. Any place that replaces auto glass will be able to pull out the rear window, reseal it and put it back in if you do not want to attempt yourself. Since you are not replacing the window it shouldn't cost as much. I would have the window pulled out and all the old sealant removed, then you can check and fix any rust or other issues that having the window out would make easier then re seal and re install. Having that rear window out make it a hell of a lot easier to clean the corners of the window and the speaker deck. What kind of risk it there of the glass breaking? Also I notice that the rear shelf is rather dried out and I can remove the carpet finish with my fingers. The leak seems to be pretty bad even when I wash the car if i just splash a bit of water on the outside of the leaky corner it almost leaks like a faucet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 If it were me I would try to squirt some urethane down in there and fill it as much as possible. It can't really hurt to try If that doesn't work, then maybe see about getting it reseated. Getting it reseated is probably the better option though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 If it were me I would try to squirt some urethane down in there and fill it as much as possible. It can't really hurt to try If that doesn't work, then maybe see about getting it reseated. Getting it reseated is probably the better option though Yes, I am going to try that. There is nothing to lose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2014 What kind of risk it there of the glass breaking? Also I notice that the rear shelf is rather dried out and I can remove the carpet finish with my fingers. The leak seems to be pretty bad even when I wash the car if i just splash a bit of water on the outside of the leaky corner it almost leaks like a faucet. Just a question, where was your leak and how did you apply the urethane? My fear is that if I get the window the removed and it breaks it is going to be time consuming/expensive to replace and I don't have another car to use in the meantime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Would i be able to remove the weather stripping that runs across the top of the windshield? If so how should I approach this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Having the glass properly removed will not break it, the glass isn't as brittle as people would think but it will break. If it is cracked then the integrity is compromised and you have a better chance of it but intact it will come out. You have to use a certain tool to cut through the old seal first and the glass just lifts out. It looks like a curved razor knife and Ive also seen a metal saw like tool used. Youtube windshield or auto glass removal and you will probably see the tools. I did my front windshield and had the time of my life trying to get the weatherstripping back on, so I actually cut the "hook" off to a "stub" and used a generous bead of outdoor silicone as an adhesive for it. Also doubles to keep water from sitting under the strip causing rust. And I also did the two side seals held on by screws, dude that shit gets nasty back there and I had rust forming around the screw holes. I imagine the rear window strip will be the same if not similar, and I know all about that rear speaker deck. I had to replace mine as it was literally turning into dust when someone touched it. To remove it I got one side loose and just pulled up and out it came. But you are talking about that harder one on top I bet, its held in by clips so you will probably have to use a small flat head screw driver to pry and unclip as you work your way around. Is the leaking area close to one of the two plastic trim pieces separating the rear window from the side windows? One can take that trim piece of and it exposes the corners of the rear windows. They are extremely brittle and also held in by clips, I silicone these back in as well after I got bored and painted them one day. Try it, it makes the back stand out a bit more. Did you try an auto glass company? Not sure where you're at but they usually will come to you instead of you having to drive to a shop, either way if you are not getting a new windshield it shouldn't cost much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 (edited) Having the glass properly removed will not break it, the glass isn't as brittle as people would think but it will break. If it is cracked then the integrity is compromised and you have a better chance of it but intact it will come out. You have to use a certain tool to cut through the old seal first and the glass just lifts out. It looks like a curved razor knife and Ive also seen a metal saw like tool used. Youtube windshield or auto glass removal and you will probably see the tools. I did my front windshield and had the time of my life trying to get the weatherstripping back on, so I actually cut the "hook" off to a "stub" and used a generous bead of outdoor silicone as an adhesive for it. Also doubles to keep water from sitting under the strip causing rust. And I also did the two side seals held on by screws, dude that shit gets nasty back there and I had rust forming around the screw holes. I imagine the rear window strip will be the same if not similar, and I know all about that rear speaker deck. I had to replace mine as it was literally turning into dust when someone touched it. To remove it I got one side loose and just pulled up and out it came. But you are talking about that harder one on top I bet, its held in by clips so you will probably have to use a small flat head screw driver to pry and unclip as you work your way around. Is the leaking area close to one of the two plastic trim pieces separating the rear window from the side windows? One can take that trim piece of and it exposes the corners of the rear windows. They are extremely brittle and also held in by clips, I silicone these back in as well after I got bored and painted them one day. Try it, it makes the back stand out a bit more. Did you try an auto glass company? Not sure where you're at but they usually will come to you instead of you having to drive to a shop, either way if you are not getting a new windshield it shouldn't cost much. My back shelf is fine and nice and blue you just can't pick at it. Also I would have no idea to clean it if someone spilled something back there, fingers crossed. I like your reassurance of pulling the back window out but I would like to apply urethane across the top of the windshield first and see where that gets me. Do you have any experience with this of the four door model of olds cutlasses? Also would it be safe to pry back the top weather stripping or do I have to pull it out? I have talked to two auto glass companies one was a whilr ago when i got my front windsheild replaced and what a poor job they did. They broke the special screws that hold in the bottom plate that the wipers sit on and didnt tuck it under the side weather stripping, non the less it was a terrible job and 40 days latter a presure crack started to form. I was not impressed. I asked them if they could put some cocking in to seal the leak and they told me they will not touch it for you can't replace the stripping and if the window breaks the car is a write-off, throw a towel back there they said. Just recently I went to another glass shop and they will remove it for $150 roughly and I will take advantage of that but only if cocking it with silicone fails to seal the leak. Edited October 15, 2014 by derkach99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 I've fixed the same issue on two sedans. remove the third brake light assembly, gently pull down on the head liner to remove the two pop pegs and get all the clear access you can by pulling, but watch for fiberglass/headliner dust in your eyes. Dry the area if necessary with a blow dryer or heat gun before attempting a fix. I've sealed one window with actual eurothane, which comes in a caulking tube, and then paddling it in place with an old credit/gift card. This was a do it yourself replacement window which I had repeated installation issues with. Oops! On the other car, I went with the cheaper black RTV or "flowable silicone" using the same method. the second car I believe rusted under the eurothane and was wet in the third brake light housing. I both paddled black rtv from the underside and removed the trim and attacked from above with flowable silicone. trim removal requires a bit of work, ask if you need info on that... or hit up a junkyard and see and learn how your the trim mounts... though it's a total PITA to make sit properly afterwards. about two inched in on each side on the top is a very weak thin spot for the eurothane on sedans, probably your leak source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 What kind of risk it there of the glass breaking? Also I notice that the rear shelf is rather dried out and I can remove the carpet finish with my fingers. The leak seems to be pretty bad even when I wash the car if i just splash a bit of water on the outside of the leaky corner it almost leaks like a faucet. I've fixed the same issue on two sedans. remove the third brake light assembly, gently pull down on the head liner to remove the two pop pegs and get all the clear access you can by pulling, but watch for fiberglass/headliner dust in your eyes. Dry the area if necessary with a blow dryer or heat gun before attempting a fix. I've sealed one window with actual eurothane, which comes in a caulking tube, and then paddling it in place with an old credit/gift card. This was a do it yourself replacement window which I had repeated installation issues with. Oops! On the other car, I went with the cheaper black RTV or "flowable silicone" using the same method. the second car I believe rusted under the eurothane and was wet in the third brake light housing. I both paddled black rtv from the underside and removed the trim and attacked from above with flowable silicone. trim removal requires a bit of work, ask if you need info on that... or hit up a junkyard and see and learn how your the trim mounts... though it's a total PITA to make sit properly afterwards. about two inched in on each side on the top is a very weak thin spot for the eurothane on sedans, probably your leak source. I am not to excited about peeling back the headliner. I don't think it is in the way. I an trying to tackle this issue from the out side, I am wondering if I can get a glass shop can pull the stripping put in some urethane and put the weather stripping back in. I don't think I can apply urethane properly with the stripping in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) You can apply it from the inside. You might need to lower the rear of the headliner in a junkyard car if in doubt. Headliner has a reasonable amount of flexibility allowing it to bow for clearance. I give good advice on doing exactly what you asked, but you'll have to step up and try for your self. Cover the headliner edge with plastic if you feel you must protect it. cover interior with an old sheet... wear gloves... etc. Ultimately you need to paddle rtv or urethane along the top edge of the inside window. from the outside, you have a greater difficulty of success. been there, done that. remove the vertical trim from the side glass, remove the srcew holding the trim and lift gently. Might break the trim, but you can unhook it's clips with a long thin flathead screw driver. Sometimes it won't seat properly when reinstalled. Edited October 20, 2014 by Crazy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted October 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 You can apply it from the inside. You might need to lower the rear of the headliner in a junkyard car if in doubt. Headliner has a reasonable amount of flexibility allowing it to bow for clearance. I give good advice on doing exactly what you asked, but you'll have to step up and try for your self. Cover the headliner edge with plastic if you feel you must protect it. cover interior with an old sheet... wear gloves... etc. Ultimately you need to paddle rtv or urethane along the top edge of the inside window. from the outside, you have a greater difficulty of success. been there, done that. remove the vertical trim from the side glass, remove the srcew holding the trim and lift gently. Might break the trim, but you can unhook it's clips with a long thin flathead screw driver. Sometimes it won't seat properly when reinstalled. How hard is it to remove that trim and what is the method of getting it back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 23, 2014 Report Share Posted October 23, 2014 The trim will be held on by plastic ribbed push pins and metal clips attached to the body of the car grip a plastic part on the back of the trim. There might be a screw or two like in the coupe but other than that it should be what I mentioned. New plastic push pins can be bought at any autoparts store and if the plastic part breaks when removing some trim just get some Velcro pads and use that to re attach the trim. I started at the top of the trim and worked my way down, find where it is secure and apply pressure close to the push pins or clips to reduce the chances of breaking. If using the Velcro method you just place those where the trim would make contact with the body, makes any future removal and installation a breeze and after 4-5 years since using it none of my trim has fallen off and if anything it reduced the rattle. My rear drivers side window trim and the larger piece just aft of the drivers door are held on by Velcro. Oh Velcro strips you can find at any Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot etc. or the 3M website. Its really easy, you just got to grab some confidence and dive in. Its not magic its a machine:thumbsup: Wow I think you were talking about the exterior trim but maybe all that will help you from the inside, Im not sure about the outside trim, I looked at mine just now and If I were to remove the long metal trim that runs the length of the rear window(and rear side winows on the coupe) I would start by prying out the first clip on one side and work my way around the car to the other using a small flat screwdriver, the big book shows a special trim removal tool that looks like a ordinary pry bar with two "teeth" sticking out and spaced the same distance as most of the double clip contraptions found on the 1994 Cutlass(all models) and other W-bodies. To install it I think you would do the opposite but with using your fist or rubber mallet to pop the trim back into place. Once that is off I would imagine you could tell where your leak is. If you could post a pic we might could help better, if not your car a similar one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I will post photos soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted November 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) Here is some pictures of the leaky area during a rainy night. Edited November 18, 2014 by derkach99 fixing broken pictures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted December 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted December 3, 2014 Report Share Posted December 3, 2014 You are going to have to pop that trim of from the outside and put a solid bead of outdoor silicon under it, then from the inside with the same silicon run a bead the length of the window and use your finger or a flat object to "push" the silicone into the crevice. Which is what I would do(and have done on the front for a tiny leak) or I would have a glass replacement company come out to remove the glass while I scraped away all the old urethane(and rust) to lay down a fresh seal then reinstall glass and trim. If you live in or around Nashville or feel like a road trip, I can do it for you in about a hour and will charge you a beer or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted December 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2014 You are going to have to pop that trim of from the outside and put a solid bead of outdoor silicon under it, then from the inside with the same silicon run a bead the length of the window and use your finger or a flat object to "push" the silicone into the crevice. Which is what I would do(and have done on the front for a tiny leak) or I would have a glass replacement company come out to remove the glass while I scraped away all the old urethane(and rust) to lay down a fresh seal then reinstall glass and trim. If you live in or around Nashville or feel like a road trip, I can do it for you in about a hour and will charge you a beer or two. Good to know. I would love to pay you a visit but I live near Toronto, Ontario, Canada. What is the proper technique to safely remove that piece of side trim? Also I was offered by my mechanic to have his glass guy remove the glass and reseat it for $125, I am just afraid that it will beak upon removal as I stated above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted December 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2014 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 super bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 The side trim is a bit tricky, you will have to pry up and use a flat head screwdriver to release the clasp that holds the plastic tab underneath, on the coupes there are two clasps fixed to the body and IIRC the sedan showed the same way in the manual. If one does break its not necessary for keeping water out of the car and as common as sedans can be some here can get you a replacement. I`ll even grab a set next time I see them just in case. Sorry Ive been busy working and haven't been around the forum as much as I`d like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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