Deacon Posted September 28, 2014 Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 A while ago I broke the lug stud off the front of my '95 GP while trying to remove a rusted on nut. Yesterday, I decided to replace it. No problem I thought. Got out the trusty mallet and out it came, very easily. That should have been my first warning. As I tried to put the new stud in, I discovered that there is not enough clearance between the hub and the knuckle. Of course I've checked all around the knuckle, but to know avail. So how has anyone here remedied this situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted September 28, 2014 Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 On my 91 GP I replaced a few studs but I dont remember if I removed the Hub or not. Maybe someone else can chime in. The easiest way to put the new stud on it just tighten its down with a lug nut. I put a bit a of grease at the end of the stud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaraxkad Posted September 28, 2014 Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 Let's take a look around and examine that hub... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted September 29, 2014 Report Share Posted September 29, 2014 I gotta do this with mine. I had no stud for a few years, put one in a few months ago but it's too short with my spacers, so I have to tap it out hopefully without messing it up. I may take the hub off anyway to make sure I dont' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 If you use standard-length studs, the hub does have to come off. They actually did, at one point, have a separate part # for shorter studs designed to be installable without pulling the hub. I never liked the shorties so I always removed the hub. I also felt more comfortable banging on the hub with it off the car. Since you already have the old one pounded out, you could probably just remove the 4-bolts holding the hub on. It should pull out far enough for you to get that stud in there. Although as rusty as that looks, removing those 4-bolts might be an ordeal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaraxkad Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Standard length studs should not require removing the hub. As shown in the pictures above, the bottom of the hub has a cutout for exactly this purpose. It gives enough clearance for stock length studs to be installed and removed. Longer studs will require the hub to be removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I'm aware of the cutout. It does not give enough clearance for stock length studs. If you look carefully at Deacon's pic, you will see he has the back of the stud resting against the knuckle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 I've never had to hit mine with anything...I just use a "c" clamp, and a deep socket to protect the threads for installation, then tighten the wheel. To press them out, I use a big socket on the back side of the hub large enough to surround the old lug, then press them out with the clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 ive changed several studs on my monte w/o loosening the hub.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 If you use standard-length studs, the hub does have to come off. They actually did, at one point, have a separate part # for shorter studs designed to be installable without pulling the hub. I never liked the shorties so I always removed the hub. I also felt more comfortable banging on the hub with it off the car. Since you already have the old one pounded out, you could probably just remove the 4-bolts holding the hub on. It should pull out far enough for you to get that stud in there. Although as rusty as that looks, removing those 4-bolts might be an ordeal. I remeber now and you are correct about the shorter studs. The factory ones will not fit with the HUB on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deacon Posted October 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 So I decided to take my beast to a local Belle Tire and let them deal with this problem. Lo and behold the tech. ran into the exact same problem. H ended up having to take the entire wheel hub off, put the stud in place and then put the hub back on. It cost me $42, but at least I know I wasn't the only one that had this problem. It's probably the stupidest thing I have ever had to spend money on for my car because I really should have and could have done this myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 8, 2014 Report Share Posted October 8, 2014 As I mentioned before, they do have shorter length studs available that make it so you don't have to pull the hubs. Just checked O'Reilly and they sell both lengths. Dorman 610-254 are OEM length 41.50mm, and Dorman 610-324 are replacement length 34.50mm. Although I'd agree they should have put an access hole or recess in the knuckle to facilitate installing full-length studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted October 9, 2014 Report Share Posted October 9, 2014 Over half of my studs broke on me when I first got the car, theorized the previous owner didn't know what a torque wrench was. Anyway I replaced them with no problem (clamp method) and they are all the same length as the originals. It's possible the parts store gave me shorties, but why would they be the same length? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 So I decided to take my beast to a local Belle Tire and let them deal with this problem. Lo and behold the tech. ran into the exact same problem. H ended up having to take the entire wheel hub off, put the stud in place and then put the hub back on. It cost me $42, but at least I know I wasn't the only one that had this problem. It's probably the stupidest thing I have ever had to spend money on for my car because I really should have and could have done this myself. Don't worry, it's a W, there will be more stupid things to spend money on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 a 96 regal had different studs than all 88-95 W-bodies. all 96+ have a tapered tip, whereas 95- are a solid threaded lug to the end. they are about the same length, but the tapered tip would allow the stud to slip in place easier as it is narrower for the first portion of its length before threads start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted October 22, 2014 Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Could have been all 96s. I had a front hub off a 96 Monte and seem to recall it had studs like you describe. Kind of resembled this if I recall correctly. https://www.wolfgangint.com/uploaded/thumbnails/db_file_img_4430_500xauto.jpg The ends were for some reason, painted green. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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