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Returning Member just picked up a TGP!


Z34-5speed
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Personally, I prefer the PMII. For 2 reasons : 1. I want to keep the car stock. 2. PMIII is far better performing than vacuum.

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That's part of the excitement, will they work, won't they.... Russian roulette style

 

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

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The repaired gauge cluster is on its way home now.

 

I'm can't find a good write-up on how to switch out the Master Cylinder/Vac system from another w-body. Anyone have a link?

 

Thanks!

 

Kyle

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just ordered a PMIII unit from Cardone. Got it through Summit for $1050.00 with the core charge.

 

I'm fully expecting them to email me to tomorrow to notify me that the part isn't available, i just figured i'd give it a shot before I dive into converting it.

 

I'll keep this updated!

 

Kyle

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Yes, I do have the one that came with it, however I don't want to go through the trouble of reinstalling it only to find out the entire unit is bad. I'll keep it and play with it later.

 

Kyle

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You can plug it in without hooking it all up. Just remove the washer bottle, prop the unit up on the battery, and plug it in. As long as you don't push the rod in, it shouldn't leak anything. I would have done that before spending so much on a new one. My guess is they will require your core to rebuild it. How's progress otherwise?

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The car is a little over the hour from here, so i haven't been able to play with it in a few weeks. I've been gathering parts so that I can spend a whole weekend on it.

 

Kyle

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  • 2 weeks later...

Far as I know, Summit still hasn't shipped the PMIII, however they haven't called to say it isn't available either.

 

I went down and re-installed the rebuild cluster and the dogbones.

 

Making progress!

 

Kyle

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Welp:

 

Didn't hear anything from Summit about the PMIII unit, so i called and just cancelled the order. They claimed it was on backorder till the end of the month, after emailing me that it would be shipped the 13th.

 

Going to make a PullAPart trip Saturday and try to acquire the parts from another w-body for the conversion.

 

What year booster/master would be an upgrade over a typical 90 w-body?

 

Thanks!

 

Kyle

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What year booster/master would be an upgrade over a typical 90 w-body?

 

I think the master cylinders were the same for first-gens 88-96. I thought it was possible to remove the master from an ABS VI assembly and you'd be left with a regular master cylinder. Not sure, someone like Ken might now for sure.

Boosters were upgraded in 94 to a larger unit, but if you have any future dreams of changing to a 5-speed manual, stick to the smaller 88-93 style booster.

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I think the master cylinders were the same for first-gens 88-96. I thought it was possible to remove the master from an ABS VI assembly and you'd be left with a regular master cylinder. Not sure, someone like Ken might now for sure.

Boosters were upgraded in 94 to a larger unit, but if you have any future dreams of changing to a 5-speed manual, stick to the smaller 88-93 style booster.

 

Yes, ABS VI should be able to be removed leaving a non-abs master, but it's easier to just buy a new master. They are only about $35.

 

Keep in mind that you'll have to pull the dash and swap out the mounting plate.

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the way that the ABS-VI hardware sandwiches onto the master cylinder... i'm not sure. i've looked at it on the MC since the ABS hasn't been useful for at least a decade and i keep seeing something that tells me something about it won't work.

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Yeah, what I'd be concerned about an ABS master cylinder is if the outlets are threaded like a regular one. The MC and Modulator are connected via "transfer tubes", but I've never actually seen one. Maybe they're threaded on the MC end and press-fit into the modulator, but I wasn't sure if maybe they're press-fit on both ends and the MC outlets are smooth instead of threaded.

 

Well, if they're only $35 new, probably not be worth the trouble of getting a used one. I'm sure a JY would want $35+ for a used one with ABS modulator attached anyway, and non-ABS cars might be harder to find since due to age.

 

Might be worthwhile to do what Sharup did and make an adapter instead of pulling the dash.

 

EDIT: Looked them up on O'Reillys website, different p/n for ABS vs non-ABS, but looks identical. Outlet ports kind of look smooth on the ABS version on one angle, but another angle clearly shows threads so I'm still not sure.

Edited by GnatGoSplat
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I've never tried to split one apart. I have several ABS units here. I don't have a use for them. Maybe i'll see what's involved and what it looks like in there.

 

There are quite PMIIIs out there. Easiest route would be to fix the one he has or replace it with another. But reliability wise, maybe do a swap. I don't drive mine very often. So I prefer to keep it all original.

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I'd prefer to avoid pulling the dash for obvious reasons, so i'll look into his adapter.

 

I'm kinda afraid to dive into it because i'm not sure exactly what all was changed when they put the Geo Metro booster/Master on the car. I do know the ends were reflared to match the Metro piece.

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*Copy/Paste from the adapter plate thread*

 

I'm looking through the pics of his adapter plate and rod extension and am a bit confused.

 

I'm pretty clueless with Master Cylinders. What is going on in the pics where he shows the disassembled rod?

 

Also, can someone better explain how and what he used for that adapter plate?

 

Thanks!

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