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2003 3100 Top Swapped my 1995 Monte Carlo, Stutter/Missfire?


Michael Savage
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Just did a 2003 Topswap to my 1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100.

yby5aryn.jpg

To

yde9abys.jpg

But now I've ran into something. During idle every few seconds the engine vibrates or jumps kinda hard.

Any ideas what to check on that could have caused it?

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Just did a 2003 Topswap to my 1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100.

yby5aryn.jpg

To

yde9abys.jpg

But now I've ran into something. During idle every few seconds the engine vibrates or jumps kinda hard.

Any ideas what to check on that could have caused it?

 

Id check both the map and iac

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I'll get on it tomorrow when it stops raining but as far as I could tell there's no vacuum leaks but I could be wrong thanks for that I'll check over the hoses again. Anything else is much appreciated :)

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Iac position at idle is 15

is that right or should it be at 0 haven't paid attention to it in the past.

 

MAP(kPa) idle is 44

MAP(V) idle is 1.02

 

Is all of this correct or is something off?

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my red tgp sits at idle with 36.83 MAP up to 48 in gear. thats .63 up to 1.0 volts in D. the IAC I have cranked 37 up to 40 in D at idle

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Swapped to a 2.8 IAC most of the hard jumping is gone still a little there. The 2.8s is way different so I'm hoping when I pick up a new one will fix it.

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3.1 has the long coil iac and the 2.8 has a short plastic nub style I've always noticed different drive ability differences in the 2. Seeing as how the 2.8 iac got rid of 80% of the jumping I'm thinking it's my iac. Whenever I've had to run the 2.8 in the past the idle usually had a little roughness so I'm guessing the 3100 iac I have went out

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I have an extra computer I could send you I keep a spare in my truck for emergencies along with most parts lol.

 

Figured out what's possibly causing the issue. The hose that connects to the silver canister on the front valve cover to behind the throttle body on the manifold to that canister with the red plug under the coil. If you pull the silver canister our of the valve cover while it's running the car doesn't run any differently. What part of it should I try replacing first?

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And also since I have a 95 I have OBD 1.5 so I have no tune ability other than what it can do itself

 

FYI, it's OBD1, not 1.5. People affectionately call it 1.5 but it still uses OG OBD protocols. The only difference was that in 94, it lost the capability of the paper clip/metal jumper diagnostic method, where the SES light would blink a certain way and certain amounts to tell you the code it's throwing.

 

If you really want to tune your PCM, talk to Robert Saar. He's very knowledgeable about electronics.

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Oh mine still has the SES jumper light it's A/B on my car. It came with a jumper key on a keychain in the glove box with the manual. So I do have OBD 1. Robert Saar has told me that it can't be tuned that I need to convert to OBD 2 if I want it to be tune able.

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Thanks man haha it's something in this asymbally causing my missfire from what I can gather. If I take it off it makes no difference in how the car drives or idles. So it's gotta be a part of it.

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[TABLE]

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[TD=class: ygtvdepthcell] [/TD]

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I'll be a son if a ..... I finally fixed it I guess my non resistant .080 gapped plugs were too big =.= riding so much better now if it acts up anymore I'll mess with that vacuum hose

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