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Hey guys,

 

SO for a few months now I've had my TCC PWM wire (pin 78) disconnected from the PCM because I had a chugging issue going up hill. In a month an a half I'll be driving the car 2600 miles (1300 each way), so I'd like to get it fixed before then. I was pondering the idea of swapping to a lower mileage transmission (230k on the odometer), but there is only 1 GTP in my area at the JY and it's been gutted...I have no clue how the transmission is in it. Thanks to that, it looks like I'll be fixing the transmission I currently have. I'm not sure if it actually has 230k or not, it could have been replaced\rebuilt before. It shifts fantastic, and everything about it is great, other than this TCC stuff. It never ran hot (since I had it), but I put a cooler on it to keep it cool. Now it stays right at 172*F, before the cooler it would get up to 200*F.

 

My main question is which solenoids should I replace? Just the TCC PWM (the one that is unplugged) or the PCS or something else? Maybe throw a shift kit in while I'm in there? I have the DIY kit, but I'm sure Transgo is better...

 

Thanks for the input and help in advance!

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Just replace all of them. So much work to get there and they're not too expensive. I'd replace the TCC, PCS, and both shift solenoids. The shift kit is installed from under the transmission pan I believe.

 

Good luck.

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Just my 2 cent, but I'd leave that alone and just get new solenoids. They said the solenoids are in tact, but what happens when you put everything back together and one of them is messed up? Would it really be worth the savings?

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True, I'm thinking new solenoids. I think I'll check my brae pedal switches and such again, just to make sure that's not the problem. I also read something about leaving the battery disconnect for awhile after touching the positive and negative together, might as well give that a shot too.

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You pretty confident the issue was with the transmission? Ignition coil and ignition control modules have been known to cause similar issues. I had a bad coil that would make my GP jump in and out of OD very rapidly under very specific load conditions.

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You pretty confident the issue was with the transmission? Ignition coil and ignition control modules have been known to cause similar issues. I had a bad coil that would make my GP jump in and out of OD very rapidly under very specific load conditions.

 

my icm is bad enough I lose od altogether for periods of time

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I've had different ICMs on it to troubleshoot difference things and it never went away. I have OD, I just don't have TCC lockup. Today I reconnected pin 78 and adjusted my TCC switch to no avail. The chugging is back again (only because I connected pin 78 again). This weekend I'm going to try replacing the TCC PWM, not the EPC. Main reason is for that is the TCC PWM is $28.99 and the EPC is $102.99. For that big of a price difference, I'll take the risk.

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I tore into it today, it wasn't so bad. the TCC PWM came out in 2 pieces, so I know it was a problem. It came out very easily, and the new one was a MUCH tighter seal. The symptoms are about 70% better, but the oscillating is still there... Maybe I need to reset TAPS? Is there a way to do that without a TECH II?

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Throwing in the towel on the TAPS stuff. This weekend I'll be tearing into it again, Gonna replace the EPC, 4th hub shaft, and possibly the clutches and steels. I'm also ordering the channel plate gaskets and thrust washers, just to be safe. Should I replace the clutches while I'm in there?

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From what I've read around, this is really the only stuff I could do with the transmission in the car. After the trip I'll probably pick up a core transmission and rebuild it, this whole thing has taught how easy these transmission really are. It's similar to this:

but I'm going to take the valve body\channel plate off as a unit.
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Now when you said EPC I'm assuming you mean the pressure control solenoid? If so, the subframe must be lowered or the motor/tranny has to come out to access the side cover.

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I know, 4 posts up I tore into the transmission and replaced the TCC PWM, which is about 1 inch away from the EPC, lol. I'm actually pulling the valve body and channel plate as a unit this time so I can get to the 4th shaft\clutches to replace them.

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