urbex Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) I'm starting to run into some small issues with the VATS on the Lumina. Now I know you can disable it, but I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction before I decide to do that or fix it, or whatever needs to be done. Anyways, it started a few weeks ago, in the morning my Security light would come on, and stay on my whole drive to work. After work, it was off and stayed off for a few days. Fast forward a week or so, and it came on again, same thing. Just in the morning, and that was it. Well it's done it now maybe 5 or 6 times, and each time it's been in the morning, and it's typically very cold. The first day it did it the temperature was -15. The most recent time it did it was this morning, it was less than 10 outside. My first thought was the key since it's the original, and I always use the same one. I can actually wiggle the resistor pellet, so I figured it was probably the culprit. Got my spare over the weekend, and I went to use it this morning. Well that was even worse. The car kept trying to stall (fuel cutout) but didn't, and was able to stay running, (but stumbilng for maybe 10 seconds) but the Security light stayed on for a few minutes. So, both keys have had issues. I don't really mind fixing the system if something needs replacing and isn't that expensive/time consuming, but I don't know where the best place to start is. I should also mention, (not sure if it makes a difference or not), but the ignition switch was replaced about 3 or so years ago... Any thoughts? Edited March 26, 2014 by urbex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revnrob Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Just get a VATS connector from under the dash a junk car , Then ohm out your key and get the proper resistor-"s (might be 1 -2 or 3 to get the proper resistance )and loop them in the connector and bam, plug and play done! Now if your car starts every time with the new resistor loop plugged in and you plug the stock connector back in and you have problems you know what"s the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 (edited) Are you talking about the actual theft deterrent module itself? I did test the chip on both keys with an Ohm meter... The key I use read 2160, while the "new" (but still old) spare key that doesn't get used read 2360. Going off the VATS website, I'm guessing the value was originally 2370. Still doesn't explain why both keys have had the light come on though... Edited March 26, 2014 by urbex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revnrob Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 http://vats.likeabigdog.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 WATS shouldn't make an engine "Try" to stall, it tends to be a definate process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 WATS shouldn't make an engine "Try" to stall, it tends to be a definate process. I realize that when it ultimately fails, it wouldn't crank. But the security light is coming on, and today while the light was on it was stumbling quite a bit... I know bypassing it is an option, but I'd really rather replace the component that's going bad if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted March 26, 2014 Report Share Posted March 26, 2014 Security light on with engine running = Fail/Enable It will eventually get to the point of stranding you. If you want to fix it, that's on you, but the simplest, cheapest, and most reliable solution is this: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/50030-VATS-issues!-(Resolution-on-PG3!!)?p=993179&viewfull=1#post993179 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 if nothing else, fail-enable will allow you to keep driving it without tardation until you are ready to replace things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 both of my keys have been popping the security light for a few months now. It only left me stranded (at work) once, but that was before the light was on. It's almost always on now, but has never otherwise kept it from starting. I will probably do the wire thing soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitehawkjcb Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 I don't believe your issue is with the VATS. VATS will allow the car to start, or not start at all. Driveability shouldn't be affected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 So, basically the light coming on is a good thing, because it means my car won't strand me? Yeah, I suppose I should probably just bypass it then. I'll probably just pull the cluster and remove the light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 If you bypass it, the light won't stay on. The light is triggered when it's failing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Proper bypass = no light, unplug bypass = light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 I meant unplug. Oops. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 I don't believe your issue is with the VATS. VATS will allow the car to start, or not start at all. Driveability shouldn't be affected. Any time the Security light comes on, the issues is VATS related. It cannot be anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 I meant unplug. Oops. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk We can meet up and have an unplug party Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitehawkjcb Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Any time the Security light comes on, the issues is VATS related. It cannot be anything else. I understand this, I was referring to his engine stumbling issue while running. That is not related to VATS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Except for the fact that it only ever did it once, and while the security light was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Except for the fact that it only ever did it once, and while the security light was on. coincidence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitehawkjcb Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Except for the fact that it only ever did it once, and while the security light was on. The VATS in 95-99 Montes and Luminas when starting to fail will not send a signal to the starter. It doesn't cut out any fuel at all. Take it how you want, but I seriously doubt your engine running rough had anything to do with your VATS problem. But hey, what do I know? I've only had the same exact problem before and done the resistor trick and replaced the ignition switch in my 5th gen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted March 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 Then forget about that, ok. That has nothing to do with my question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 It doesn't cut out any fuel at all. directly, no. however, the passkey module sends a 50Hz square wave signal to the PCM that if it doesn't see it, will disable the injectors. if for some reason the signal were intermittent, i could see weird things happening like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nitehawkjcb Posted March 27, 2014 Report Share Posted March 27, 2014 OK, I'll get back on topic then. The real way to fix it is by replacing the ignition switch. There are two little white wires that often times come off of the contact points. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Savage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 The key doesn't wear out easily the ohms in both your keys are within working order. The problem is the connection in the ignition drum wears out and your not getting the connection through throwing up VATs. VATs according to GM can disable fuel rails, starter, and almost anything Electronically controlled. My chip went out years ago. Look up online how to put a resistor in the wiring under the stealing column under the dash part. There's 2 brown? Wires that send the signal to and from the ignition. Test the ohms of the resistor in the key. Find a resistor of close to exactly the same ohms. Quick connect the resistor into the returning wire or jump them together. Do whatever the guide says about this. We did this on my 95 about 5 years ago. The ignition drum can range between $100-500 from GM. And you can buy 100 resistors for less than $10. The security light May or may not stay on after this is done, but it will run properly and continue as normal. Car can easily be stolen after this with the hold hammer and a screw driver we used to use on Mechanical run cars. If the resistor you try doesn't work try another or try the different wire jump. If it doesn't you will just have to get a new ignition drum. I would suggest the cheaper way because it will prevent it from happening in the future. Bad key hole? No problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Savage Posted March 28, 2014 Report Share Posted March 28, 2014 This is the guide for our vehicles to easily bypass this with a resistor. http://vats.likeabigdog.com Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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