93CutlassSupreme Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 (edited) Hello, I have a dead car. 1997 Grand Prix 3.8 L36. The car will crank but not start. I have spark, fuel pressure at the regulator(it is actually a little high) and the injectors are firing because the plugs are wet. I have a couple bullshit MIL codes (EGR and O2 sensors) but nothing that would prevent the car from starting. No live data is available because as soon as the key is turned to the on position connection is lost due to the key in the start position, at least on a Techstream tool. I am not sure if this car has VATS or Passkey, the key looks like a normal key and there is no security light. This is a strange issue. Anything that may have been overlooked? Edited February 9, 2014 by 93CutlassSupreme forgot something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Neutral start switch out of alignment? IIRC if it were VATS or Passkey it will not crank at all---However I could be mistaken on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 common problem is a bad crank sensor, and it won't set any code. do you have spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted February 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 The car will not crank in gear. Haven't investigated the neutral safety switch further. Usually the NSS prevents cranking. I have spark and fuel. Usually a bad crank sensor stops spark and fuel. The crank sensor and wiring was replaced four months ago and I had a few signs that it was bad, all increasing in frequency as time went on - The tach would not work, the car would stall, and the car would have to be cranked forever before it would start. I also had a crank sensor loss of signal MIL code. None of these issues happened before the car died - drove fine to work, after work it would not start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 Usually the NSS prevents cranking. That's right, I remember when mine went out of alignment and no crank. You mentioned wet plugs, wouldn't that indicate that there was no spark? Maybe fouled up fuel? If anything you might have to back track on your repairs to see if something is amiss. Just bouncing ideas around, 1997 is a little to new for me:lol:. Does the starter make any strange noises, like worn teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted February 9, 2014 Report Share Posted February 9, 2014 cam sensor or MAF been checked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted February 11, 2014 Report Share Posted February 11, 2014 No chance the uim is leaking enough the saturate the plugs with coolant? I had a set that I dried out and they still wouldn't start the car until they were replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted March 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 No chance the uim is leaking enough the saturate the plugs with coolant? I had a set that I dried out and they still wouldn't start the car until they were replaced. Yup this was it. Fat blue spark when I grounded the plugs out of the engine, but no start when they were put back in. The rear bank LIM is leaking like a beyotch and fouling the plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Its not a terrible job, Just be careful with talking the new manifold down. Shop vac is really nice for cleaning out inside there when you pull the uim. 1 to 3 hours depending upon your skill level. Assuming nothing breaks of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Its not a terrible job, Just be careful with torquing the new manifold down. Shop vac is really nice for cleaning out inside there when you pull the uim. 1 to 3 hours depending upon your skill level. Assuming nothing breaks of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted March 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 Its not a terrible job, Just be careful with torquing the new manifold down. Shop vac is really nice for cleaning out inside there when you pull the uim. 1 to 3 hours depending upon your skill level. Assuming nothing breaks of course. Well I just assume the LIM gaskets are bad. They have been replaced once (RTV is gooped everywhere) but they are probably not the improved design. Either way I will not be doing this job. Not spending close to $300 for new LIM gaskets, new Dorman Upper Intake, coolant, etc. on a car with low oil pressure and cracked rear strut towers. I will ride this shit as is until it is toast. If I have to change the spark plugs once a week, so be it. With the engine cover mount removed the rear bank is pretty easy to get to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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