rich_e777 Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Next time this one commercial account comes in to AZ I`ll ask him what shop deals with convertibles and have a talk with those guys. Maybe they have some new seals or know how to get some or make them. It seems like something can created to fix that problem, but I cannot think of what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Yeah, it doesn't bother me yet so I'll just keep the pads until I decide whether or not I want to swap to coil The Cutlass Verts seem to be heavier on the rear than coupes. When I went with coil overs on the rear, I went with 250 lb springs and the car seems to be well balanced, even with a half coil cut off the front springs. I remember reading here years ago that popular opinion was that the W's had 250lb springs up front and the monoleaf was equal to 200lb springs on the rear. I now have 275lb coil overs on the front and with the 250lb springs on the rear it feels very balanced. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Next time this one commercial account comes in to AZ I`ll ask him what shop deals with convertibles and have a talk with those guys. Maybe they have some new seals or know how to get some or make them. It seems like something can created to fix that problem, but I cannot think of what. AFAIK, new seals have to be made, but probably custom made. I've been told that stunt will hold me back $2000. I bought the car for $15 and I'm in the Chrysler Sebring thing for $30. Big difference. However, if they can be made for the remaining cars, That would probably be perfect. The Cutlass Verts seem to be heavier on the rear than coupes. When I went with coil overs on the rear, I went with 250 lb springs and the car seems to be well balanced, even with a half coil cut off the front springs.I remember reading here years ago that popular opinion was that the W's had 250lb springs up front and the monoleaf was equal to 200lb springs on the rear. I now have 275lb coil overs on the front and with the 250lb springs on the rear it feels very balanced. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Where did you get the springs from and how hard was it to put the rear ones on? Also, do you still have the monoleaf in the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 (edited) I'll have to check part numbers, but rear coil overs can be done for less than $175. Take rear tires off, remove the (4) 10 mm bolts retaining the monoleaf. Remove the swaybar to body mount bolts. Loosen the lat link and trailing arm bolts. Disassemble one side knuckle, remove caliper and rotor, unplug ABS sensor as all this will need to come off later. Put jack under end of monoleaf. Disconnect lat link bolts. Move the knuckle out to release the monoleaf, let the jack down and wiggle the monoleaf out of the car, it may come out fast and loud. With the monoleaf off, remove the trailing arm bolt from the knuckle and remove the upper strut mount bolts, remove the strut/ knuckle assy and slide it off the end of the swaybar. Remove strut mount. Slide the adjusting sleeve with adjusting nut over the strut, put the spring on, trim the inside of the spring isolator so it fits over the bump stop (seems to fit well in the top groove) install strut mount assy on strut. Reassemble strut assy on the car. You should be able to do this with out loosening the strut to knuckle bolts so realignment is not needed, but it does go easier if you do this when you change struts. Trim the inside of the urethane spring isolator so it fits over the factory bump stop. Edited April 15, 2015 by George Changed rear coil over spring rates and realized it's more work than I remembered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Summit racing PH# (800) 230-3030 (2) #250 x 12" springs (QA1) p/n hal-12HT250 or equal, check $$ about $80/ pr (1) spring isolator kit (Energy suspensions) p/n ens-3-6110G about $12 A1 Racing PH# (800) 669-8442 (2) Coil over adjusting sleeve p/n cok-12452-H about $40/pr (2) coil over adjuster nut p/n cok-12460 about $26/pr and if you want they have coil spring covers as well, seems about $12 / pr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primergray Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Ugh...hate what the windshield people did to you. if I'd had my windshield done first, I could have given you a recommendation...I went with Best Auto Glass out of Lorton or something...fairly pleased with the lack of butchering with the new windshield process, although I think when they were vacuuming everything up, the vacuum sucked up my hazard switch button... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Ugh...hate what the windshield people did to you. if I'd had my windshield done first, I could have given you a recommendation...I went with Best Auto Glass out of Lorton or something...fairly pleased with the lack of butchering with the new windshield process, although I think when they were vacuuming everything up, the vacuum sucked up my hazard switch button... I know where you're talking about. They told me $260 for the glass on the vert, non HUD. I've actually driven past it although I'm not a big fan of 286. That place is too cop heavy. Glad they at least do good work. How much did they charge you for your Regal? Also, I can see if I can source the hazard button if you want. I go to Crazy Rays out in Baltimore a lot. BTW, do you recognize this location? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primergray Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Don't recognize the location at all...although it looks rather Robocop, albeit more in a townhome on hard times way instead of the forgotten Dallas/Houston standing in for Detroit thing. I had a 2 inch hole in the windshield and the associated shards and powdered glass all on the inside, so heading to the shop wasn't an option. I don't know 286, 236 is my area. Still, by nature I try to avoid cop heavy areas as I don't comply quickly enough to barked commands and there are far too many laws to keep up with them all... I know the glass place has locations in Lorton and gentrified Merrifield, but I was needing mobile service. Ran me $224 on a $217 quote...about what Glass America quoted me, but you know...buy local and whatever. Also, got it a couple days sooner and I was just pissed in general about having to wait 12 days for service so even if I could get it 2 days sooner, I was gonna go for anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 Don't recognize the location at all...although it looks rather Robocop, albeit more in a townhome on hard times way instead of the forgotten Dallas/Houston standing in for Detroit thing. It's at the bottom of 286 and Richmond Highway. The building is actually one part of a 2 building small apartment complex that's right in front of the Tulley Gate (Ft. Belvoir). I think they were called "The Courts at Ft Belvoir", but most of the locals call it "The Crackpartments". Only reason that it's boarded up is because VDOT is going to demolish it to widen Rt.1 around the Ft. Belvoir area. I had a 2 inch hole in the windshield and the associated shards and powdered glass all on the inside, so heading to the shop wasn't an option. I don't know 286, 236 is my area. Still, by nature I try to avoid cop heavy areas as I don't comply quickly enough to barked commands and there are far too many laws to keep up with them all... I know the glass place has locations in Lorton and gentrified Merrifield, but I was needing mobile service. Ran me $224 on a $217 quote...about what Glass America quoted me, but you know...buy local and whatever. Also, got it a couple days sooner and I was just pissed in general about having to wait 12 days for service so even if I could get it 2 days sooner, I was gonna go for anything else. Ahh, ok I understand now. I thought you had made that drive from 236 to Lorton, so I thought you were familiar with Rt.1. I spent my high school years before I went to DC on Rt.1. But yeah, I'm familiar with 236 as well. It's not that far from Columbia Pike. I'm not from the east coast really but I grew up in Arlington and moved around a lot, so I know the area rather well. Man, if that was the case, I should have told you to go to Allstate Auto Glass in Merrifield by the Target on Rt. 29. They quoted me $190 and they do a good job usually. They did my Camaro twice. Only reason I didn't go is because they used to charge me $150 for glass repair but then they jacked up the price on me recently which kinda pissed me off. I've done business with them for years. In retrospect, I should have just gone with them and said fuck it. I ended up paying the same anyways. They do mobile as well, but not sure how much they charge for that. I always drive mine to the place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amistydj Posted April 16, 2015 Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 Because people have a habit of quoting my posts with the pics still in there, I'll be double posting from now on. Other things I've done within the past month... I re did the Chrysler Sebring seals. Still leaks on this side (not sure why there is that big big gap where the B pillar is, but I assume the frame is bent or something. However, this side barely has leak issues. The only leak is where the retards that changed my windshield messed up my weatherstripping. Another pic of how it looks. You can tell something is definitely off here... I also took off the door stop moldings. I figured the body cladding at the bottom served the same purpose. I also fixed the monoleaf pad. Before... I wonder how long it's been like this. After... Love the look of it, should definately stop the water leaks. Im having the same problem on my driver side, my mouldings are torn and lets water in. You mentioned chrysler sebring, is that where the new mouldings came from? I might have to look for some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 Love the look of it, should definately stop the water leaks. Im having the same problem on my driver side, my mouldings are torn and lets water in. You mentioned chrysler sebring, is that where the new mouldings came from? I might have to look for some. So far it hasnt. Its better than getting POURED on by the stock ones. Yeah, 1995-2006 Sebring vert. Its the 3rd moulding that goes all the way where the side of the back window meets. Just remember that you have to figure out the corners so it won't leak there. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amistydj Posted April 17, 2015 Report Share Posted April 17, 2015 So far it hasnt. Its better than getting POURED on by the stock ones. Yeah, 1995-2006 Sebring vert. Its the 3rd moulding that goes all the way where the side of the back window meets. Just remember that you have to figure out the corners so it won't leak there. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk Sweet thanks will have to look for one, my new glass is installed will cut the leaks by 99%, my main leak is coming from the driver side moulding. when I bought the car the rear was duct taped, so I hade to retape them everytimw I put the top down, later I realized the plastic window isnt factory, factory one has been cut out and replaced with some heavy duty barely flexible plastic, sounded too cheap but worked for the previous owner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 My problem with leaks when I got my vert was I didn't know the top was suppose to hang down over the seals on the sides. The water was running off the top on to the seals, running along the seals and running into the car when it found a split (where the top folds) I got some black Gorilla tape, put a layer under the top (with the sticky side up so it adhered to the under side of the top). I lined up the out side edge with the top edge of the windows. Then I put a layer on the top side of the top with a 1/2" hanging over the first layer of tape so I could wrap it down under the first layer but that's not necessary. My top was bad enough I had to add another layer of tape on the out side of the top. After I did this the rain ran off the top and down the window, not even having a chance to run inside the car. I ran this a couple years util I got a new top. This is what it looks like now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 I ran some tape along the bottom of the back window to keep the rain from filling up my trunk as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Sweet thanks will have to look for one, my new glass is installed will cut the leaks by 99%, my main leak is coming from the driver side moulding. when I bought the car the rear was duct taped, so I hade to retape them everytimw I put the top down, later I realized the plastic window isnt factory, factory one has been cut out and replaced with some heavy duty barely flexible plastic, sounded too cheap but worked for the previous owner. I'm surprised they didn't just replicate the glass window by replacing it with plexiglass and tape. That section lays down flat when the top goes down anyways so it would have been a better idea than plastic to keep the water out. But yeah, I can do an "official" how to on the seals. You'll also need urethane to seal the corners. I ran some tape along the bottom of the back window to keep the rain from filling up my trunk as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Didn't quote your first post, but I did know the canvas is supposed to cover the seals. It took me a while to figure it out, but when I noticed the back of the rear windows, I saw the seal is convered and that's why it doesn't leak there. So that's that I guess, I just didn't want to use tape to create a "window visor" for fear it would just fall off, but I may just go to wally world and play with this idea. The only other way I got most of the water out is by putting urethane on the top portion of the Chrysler seal to make it all "flush", however I had to close the windows with the door open. I didn't like the idea at all so I redid the seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amistydj Posted April 19, 2015 Report Share Posted April 19, 2015 They didnt wanna buy a new top, the cutlass has come a long way ever since I got it. if it could talk it will surely thank me because Ive put in more work in less than one year than the previous owners ever did during their ownership. Im having a hard time finding some sebrings being parted out on craigslist, I will keep looking and yes an official would be awesome nas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amistydj Posted April 23, 2015 Report Share Posted April 23, 2015 Hey Nas I think I have found the perfect if not original part for the door seals, Its on rockauto and the part number is LM108 Here is the link http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=919932&cc=1223402&jnid=471&jpid=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Hey Nas I think I have found the perfect if not original part for the door seals, Its on rockauto and the part number is LM108Here is the link http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=919932&cc=1223402&jnid=471&jpid=0 Door seals? The one that goes on the body right? Not the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amistydj Posted April 24, 2015 Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 Door seals? The one that goes on the body right? Not the top? I think it will fit the top too, if you look at the diagrams shown on the convertible one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2015 I saw that. Would be interesting to play around with it. I might get it after I get the Camaro running. Right now all funds are going towards that project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted December 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Well I haven't updated this thread in a long long long time so here goes some pics. Back in March I had managed to get the whole dash out as I had posted in pictures back in spring, but I never posted the whole thing. So here goes pics. Before with the ugly navy blue "charcoal" color Notice the speaker cover fabric is actually purple. And here's the best "before and after" shot. 95-97 console took place of the 2000-2005 Monte Carlo center console. Door panel is still ugly navy blue I also fixed another issue with my car. I was never fond of this so I almost always made sure the camera couldn't pick this up whenever I took pics but here goes the paint peel issue in the trunk. The car honestly needs a new paint job. My temporary fix... plastidip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Nice project, I need to post some pics up as well of mine. Ive got everything out of My cutlass except for the dash which might be next while I`m at it. Did you have any issues come up while doing that? I also did my trunk lid as well a few months back but I ended up just taking it off, it still needs some more work and I`m going to drill out some lip spoiler mounting holes with some grommet inserts so I can flip back and forth between the wing and Lip/tail combo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted December 20, 2015 Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 How easy or hard was it to do the plasty dip in a large area like that? I have a bunch of white and I wanted to possibly try doing my 04 in white in the spring, since the paint is not in great shape anyways, and I got the plasty dip dirt cheap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted December 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2015 Nice project, I need to post some pics up as well of mine. Ive got everything out of My cutlass except for the dash which might be next while I`m at it. Did you have any issues come up while doing that? I also did my trunk lid as well a few months back but I ended up just taking it off, it still needs some more work and I`m going to drill out some lip spoiler mounting holes with some grommet inserts so I can flip back and forth between the wing and Lip/tail combo. Yes you do. I've always wanted to see pics of your Cutlass. As far as taking the dash out, the dashpad is easy as hell to take out. The frame for the dash (what most call a "lower dash") is a bit tricky. It does have around 5 hidden bolts that look as if it holds something else in but in reality it does not. There's 2 that hold the lower dash to the steering column and those need to come out, but it looks as if it's holding the column itself. They do not. The complete dash can come out without messing with the steering column. I would recommend having a buddy help you take it out and put it in. It is a bit cumbersome to work with, moreso installing it. I did mine by myself but it would have been a bit easier having help. How easy or hard was it to do the plasty dip in a large area like that? I have a bunch of white and I wanted to possibly try doing my 04 in white in the spring, since the paint is not in great shape anyways, and I got the plasty dip dirt cheap Depends on your dipping abilities. The can and how to's say dont spray it like paint but you actually have to spray it as if it was paint, minus the primer part. In the last picture you can see some "wet spots", that's where I oversprayed. If I could do it again, I would do it as if it was normal paint and do sweeping motions coming down instead of left to right. I think that's where I messed up as well, but dried up it looks decent enough. Another thing I have to warn about is that plastidip does not dry as quick as paint and if you're spraying the air from the spray can can actually push the plastidip creating an uneven texture. Do you plan on plastidipping your whole car with cans? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 I plan on getting another phone soon, and I`ll take a bunch of current pics. I`m also working on transferring all my posted pics from here to another hosting site. I may go ahead and pull the upper part then to see about a few electrical and vacuum related issues. I`m going to add some sort of modification while everything is out but I don't know what it is yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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