9RegalGS2 Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 i have some water that comes in.car does need a windshield badly but i have rust that needs to be addressed.is it something i can do on my own after the windshield is out?whats involved?any advice would be appreciated.. also in the rear window the molding is coming up what can be done to remedy that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Cut out the rust replace new metal i have some water that comes in.car does need a windshield badly but i have rust that needs to be addressed.is it something i can do on my own after the windshield is out?whats involved?any advice would be appreciated..also in the rear window the molding is coming up what can be done to remedy that?[ATTACH=CONFIG]14048[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14049[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14050[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14051[/ATTACH] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) Gah, my Lumina had that in one of the corners. It drove me insane, but never spread in the time I owned it. I say if it needs a new windshield, pull it and try to see how bad it actually is? I'm sure a good sanding, prepping, and painting would deter it somewhat at least. Edited October 3, 2013 by Euro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianG Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 (edited) My TGP has this too. Doesn't appear to be spreading at any rapid rate however, but it's an eyesore and a worry. I would imagine that after the windshield is out, standard rust removal and treatment to the metal would be in order to repair it properly. Get rid of the rust, seal the bare metal, put the windshield back in. There should be some good rust deterring rattle cans of paint at any good auto parts store. For the rear window molding, I would have the old stuff ripped out and new stuff installed. When a glass replacement shop puts in a new back window, they have generic stuff that matches pretty well that they install, so I would think that any glass repair place should be able to replace that. Edited October 3, 2013 by BrianG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Wire brush attachment on a drill or some elbow grease first to see how far it has set in. Pulling a windshield out your self isn't really that hard, setting one back in is even easier. On my CS it has guide clips so it can only go in one way. Clear silicone for household window applications and bam there you go. The weather stripping might need replacing but I believe you can get away with removing it carefully and you might be able to re-use it. A suction cup handle will make re-installation a breeze but if you do not have one set the bottom first and then lean the top in, and wear rubber padded gloves to grip the windshield better so you don't drop the first one and have to go back for a second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 An extra helpers handy too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted October 4, 2013 Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Hit it with an 80 grit sanding disk on an angle grinder when the windshield is out. That should get it down to good metal that you can prime and paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9RegalGS2 Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 thanks all.gives me more confidence pulling it myself.found a new windshield on craigslist for 25.00 gonna go pick it up next week.and try and pull it out about the same time weather and time permitting!pretty sure i have a few wire brushes and a few 80-200 sanding discs from my buddy doin his truck lol.this should be exciting!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9RegalGS2 Posted October 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 also where should i look for the weatherstrip/molding that goes around the windshield?some is dry rotted a little and the bottom little strip.gonna be picking up the windshield in a couple days,but just wanna make sure ill have everything needed for reinstallation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Share Posted October 9, 2013 Might find something that works at autozone. The one here in Nashville has several different kinds on the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Wire brush attachment on a drill or some elbow grease first to see how far it has set in. Pulling a windshield out your self isn't really that hard, setting one back in is even easier. On my CS it has guide clips so it can only go in one way. Clear silicone for household window applications and bam there you go. The weather stripping might need replacing but I believe you can get away with removing it carefully and you might be able to re-use it. A suction cup handle will make re-installation a breeze but if you do not have one set the bottom first and then lean the top in, and wear rubber padded gloves to grip the windshield better so you don't drop the first one and have to go back for a second. Ah... hold on a second friend. I'd agree with almost all of that except the "clear silicone". That is NOT the proper way to install a windshield. The windshield is a structural part of the car, as a window in your home is not. Clear silicone is only made to seal small gaps around glass in your house. There is a reason they make WINDSHIELD adhesive. Costs a bit more than a $3 tube of silicone, but it does it's job properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Ah... hold on a second friend. I'd agree with almost all of that except the "clear silicone". That is NOT the proper way to install a windshield. The windshield is a structural part of the car, as a window in your home is not. Clear silicone is only made to seal small gaps around glass in your house. There is a reason they make WINDSHIELD adhesive. Costs a bit more than a $3 tube of silicone, but it does it's job properly. 4+ years and ZERO problems with regular washes with a pressure washer. I am happy with my work, do not care if others are not and you would have never noticed unless I said something about it had you seen my car in real life. But thanks for the info as future readers can make the call for themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9RegalGS2 Posted April 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 may just hit a bodyshop or someone local if i can find,having trouble finding the time to pull the windshield let alone repair the rust(pulling 12/15 hour days now),anyone on here live in the minnesota area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted April 2, 2014 Report Share Posted April 2, 2014 He does still live! Sup man long time no see may just hit a bodyshop or someone local if i can find,having trouble finding the time to pull the windshield let alone repair the rust(pulling 12/15 hour days now),anyone on here live in the minnesota area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Guz Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 My 99 has the same. The guys that replaced my windshield a few years must have not done a good job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Whatever you do, don't use silicone! [video=youtube;SLTtkS23S64] If you're going to DIY, at least buy the proper urethane adhesive and primer! It's not that hard to find, you can buy it at any paint shop that sells automotive paint and supplies. I bought some before to glue the back window back into place on my convertible. Urethane windshield adhesive has a tensile strength of 1200psi and can stretch 7.5x its original strength before breaking. Adhesive silicone, tensile strength 218psi and can stretch only 3.5x. Silicone is a really BAD idea. On the rust, I'd probably grind off as much as possible, treat with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly, then prime with a rust-preventive primer like POR-15. Then a skim coat of filler, sand smooth, prime, and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9RegalGS2 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 im having trouble finding the time ,and im apprehensive about trying to take the glass out (never pulled glass) dont wanna mess up the channel or anything.....any good tips for removing?and if i use filler ive heard you should fiberglass sheet over it when done to keep moisture out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted April 4, 2014 Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 Can't say I've ever heard of anyone putting fiberglass over filler. Usually it's the other-way around. I was just thinking your rusty spot probably was mostly just pitted with maybe tiny pinholes at the worst. Hard to say without taking the bubbled paint off, but I was just assuming for pitting and/or pinholes, a very light skim coat of filler, like less than 1mm thick would all you'd need to bring the pitted area back to the level of the good metal. A rust-preventive sealing primer should be all you need to keep moisture out. Fiberglass is more for larger repairs than light surface stuff. It's also a major bitch to sand smooth, which is why when people use fiberglass for a repair, they usually use filler on top of that for finish work and smoothing. Now, if you remove that rust and find a large hole, then it would be best to have some new metal welded in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
9RegalGS2 Posted April 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2014 (edited) i see,well whats the best way to remove these windshields?pull off all the trim and push out?ive seen kits at harborfreight but they look like tooth floss!! edit:well i see how you do it now,whats best to use?steel wire,or theres this stuff called zipline,that any good?25 ft for about 15.00 Edited April 4, 2014 by 9RegalGS2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted April 5, 2014 Report Share Posted April 5, 2014 Whatever you do, don't use silicone! [video=youtube;SLTtkS23S64] If you're going to DIY, at least buy the proper urethane adhesive and primer! It's not that hard to find, you can buy it at any paint shop that sells automotive paint and supplies. I bought some before to glue the back window back into place on my convertible. Urethane windshield adhesive has a tensile strength of 1200psi and can stretch 7.5x its original strength before breaking. Adhesive silicone, tensile strength 218psi and can stretch only 3.5x. Silicone is a really BAD idea. On the rust, I'd probably grind off as much as possible, treat with phosphoric acid like Naval Jelly, then prime with a rust-preventive primer like POR-15. Then a skim coat of filler, sand smooth, prime, and paint. Upon seeing that video I had to do a little test, needless to say I will be pulling my windshield out and using the correct urethane adhesive. Worked great sealing out air and water so I was under the impression that it was working but I was Wrr.. WWWrrrr... mistaken. You cannot use regular silicone on a car or vehicles windshield and I wont attempt it with any of the other windows should any of them come out for whatever reason. Its called redneck ingenuity, it works but not the exact way you want it to. As far as pulling the windshield out you just have to cut into the sealant already there and getting a window suction cup will help DRAMATICALLY. Once you have the sealer cut back enough that you start seeing it give way, have someone start pushing from the inside out at the top of the windshield while another continues to cut down the sides and it should come right out. I assume they weight somewhere between 60 to 80lbs so be ready. Clean off all the old shit if reusing windshield and set the bottom in first in the guide and lay her in. My car has guides at the bottom and on both sides that are nonadjustable so getting it square is almost idiot proof. I found a way to screw it up by using silicone but other than that its not so bad. The urethane sealant should go around the perimeter in about a 3/8ths inch bead and should be enough to get a good seal. Once the windshield is laid in press down from the outside about where your rear view mirror sits and press down all the way around the window to insure its set right and any potential air pockets get pressed out before the sealant cures. Sand or wire brush off rust, primer, paint, clearcoat, dry, done. I`d say open beer but your 18 and liberals in this country frown upon such things. GnatGoSplat summed that part up pretty good. If you want a bit of experience first go try out you technique on a car at a junkyard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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