JimMadsen Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Replacing driver front wheel bearing but hit a snag: Do I need a bearing with the abs wire? My car has abs but all of the ones I am finding at rockauto, amazon, autozone, napa... do not have the wire and state abs N/A or are blank, all of the sites say it fits my car. Service manual states to use the wire. I would really like to get this one: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1288183 There is a Timkin one at RA that states "Front; ABS Sensor Part Of Axle Assembly; 4-Wheel ABS" but the pictures do not show a wire. Is there a spot I plug the sensor into after taking it off the current one? I called autozone and they said I can buy a abs ring separate at $50, called napa and they said not a clue. Sorry bout starting the new thread, but the question does not apply as much to the previous tire rubbing thread I started and I wanted to make sure it is seen. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 I'm going to assume you are talking gen1 W-body??? the sensor can be swapped over. the ABS ring is on your axles. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1114370&cc=1255766 that is what your ABS sensor looks like it uses the upper knuckle to wheel bearing bolts to hold it on and it uses the 2 pins in the top of the wheel bearing as a guide for alignment. sometimes they get rusted in and you can use a 3/8s extension and a small hammer to drive it out then just put it back when you put the new one in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 (edited) Sorry, 98 lumina LS 3.1 gen 2 I think Edited June 17, 2013 by JimMadsen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Close enough... still applies. You can swap the old ABS sensor over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 Thanks. I will get the one I am looking at then. Do I need the axle tool in the service manual? Forgot the name but it pushes the spindle through the bearing. Nobody around me is renting it and I think it is @ $30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LumiLTZ Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 I've never needed the axle tool... I hit the area where the axle goes thru with some pb blaster and a couple light whacks with a hammer got the axle to come loose. Just be careful and if it is really stuck, then you might need the puller. When I re-installed the new bearing, I put a little grease on the axle splines so that the axle would slide into the bearing easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 I put the nut back on the axle and put the socket over it, few good blows and if it was stuck it isn't any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 I put the nut back on the axle and put the socket over it, few good blows and if it was stuck it isn't any more. Sounds good to me as I had to get a 34mm impact socket for this job. I do not have to worry too much about cracking the boot or anything, correct? Any advice on how to best get the bearing bolts out? I have a harbor freight electric impact wrench that hasn't failed me yet but is kinda big. I do not have a large enough compressor to run air. I do have a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar. Probably just hit them with liquid wrench and go eat lunch? I do not want to torch anything that close to the rubber boots. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 I believe its a 35mm socket that you need, also, I have never had a problem breaking the nuts loose that hold the bearing on, liquid wrench will definitely help though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 If you want to go all out, wire brush the ends of the bolts where they poke through the front of the wheel bearing, hit them with liquid wrench. I've never had too much trouble with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 While the description did not say what size socket, on amazon it is bought "with" the 34mm socket. Oh well, if it does not fit, will get the 35mm one. I actually got the nut from rockauto since 2 there was only a few dollars more than 1 at amazon. The service manual also does not say the size, and it is also missing the torque specs. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LumiLTZ Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 I ended up using a 36mm that I've had forever...it was a little loose, but it did the job and didn't slip/strip. Found GOT2BGM's writeup, torque spec on the axle nut is 160ft/lb. Other specs are in the writeup. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/76455-1st-Gen-amp-1-5-Gen-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2013 Thats more detailed then the service manual! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 I am 90% of the way there. I have the axle nut off (was 35mm) and the 4 bearing bolts off. The abs bolt is still on, but that should be simple. My problem now is the caliper. To make it easier, I removed the brake part itself to give me more room to work. But the caliper frame bolts (with the torx head) are stuck in place. I am spraying a lot of penetrating oil on it and can do heat if I have to. I have never had this much of a issue taking off a caliper. Any advice? Oh and the nut I got from rock auto was the wrong size, no where close. Guy at napa said I can use the old one if it appears undamaged. Good advice? I would still replace later on when I find one, but nobody carries it and obviously rock auto has it wrong as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimMadsen Posted June 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2013 (edited) Woohoo got the bottom one off. had to use my allen wrench which is about 8 inches then I used the strut extension rod tool over that and then the arm from my jack giving me about 3 feet of torque length. That and lots of liquid wrench. Now I can bring that bolt to the store and get the proper sized star bit to do the job right. Gonna let the top one sit some more before I get it with the right bit. When I put it all back together, it calls for 160lbs on the spindle nut (which moves freely in the current bearing so it should slip right off) but my torque wrench only goes up to 80. I assume I can just stand on the breaker bar and give it 200lbs? It was concerning when I barely had to put any pressure on it to get it off! edit: And it is done. thanks all for the help Edited June 22, 2013 by JimMadsen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xennith Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 On the topic of wheel bearings... Does anyone have a brand preference? There is a big price jump at Autozone. $60 for duralast vs. $87 for Timken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I got a Moog for my 94 Cutlass for $60. So far it works good. I know others that use Moog too wit no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Moog has the best warranty. the first gen ones don't appear to be sealed, so they're destined for failure no matter what we run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xennith Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Thanks, I haven't heard of Moog. I'll look into them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Try RockAuto.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 put anti sieze on evthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted May 2, 2014 Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 Amazon was a lot cheaper than Rockauto last time I needed one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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