Garrett Powered Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 product review continues. this sensor, or any heated O2 sensor for that matter needs to heat up with current from the 12v battery before it reads stable. I used to have a 4 wire narrow band Bosch heated sensor and it was a lil better than stock. I never could monitor it though, so no way of knowing if it's better than stock (1 wire). what I have been doing to get around having a 180 * chip and t-stat in the winter, which is how I always have it, is start the car differently. Could it be the circuit not getting enough juice?.. I decided to just rule that out and try for another solution. weeks of having error codes went by before I really got frustrated and all the sudden the solution hit me. I was getting the error while getting some drive thru taco bell and the car surges, lights dim, etc. It was dark and raining so wipers and defrost blasting. car was smoggy because no fueling off the O2. sometimes I would just turn the car off and re-start and it would be fine, but randomly it comes back while in city traffic. Now when that happens I pull over, and turn the car off. Then I just turn it to the ON position and HTR shows on the gauge meaning its warming up to operating temp. you can turn it off and on a few times before starting and then it will be warm enough. Then start the car and drive away. It will then fuel correctly for the remainder of the drive. It was not something I would have guessed. The manual said to worry about temps that were to high, but I think it's the opposite. at least during the winter months when it's snowing, mainly when that happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted March 7, 2014 Report Share Posted March 7, 2014 Im using an AEM UEGO and an NTK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 I gave up on the Innovate. going back to PLX Devices but this time not placing the module under the hood louver where water funnels down on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 this was only $199 on ebay. Do I learn from trying to be first to review brand new WB modules? apparently not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefEddie Posted March 9, 2014 Report Share Posted March 9, 2014 Guess i'm still stuck in the old school with my LM-1 lol. It heats the sensor up before even giving a reading. I used it on my 88 fiero gt to help diag an issue once,replacing the stock narrowband single wire since I only had one bung and no need to install a 2nd. I used the LM-1 narrowband signal back to the ecm during that time and I can't say why but the ecm never liked it. When I pulled it and plugged the stock back in it ran much better than with it. And that was with an almost new narrowband and first time use on the new bosch wideband sensor. Have never had any other issues with the LM-1 otherwise (this was prob 4-5yrs ago). I was warned by someone on the fiero forum that they had issues emulating the narrowband before I did it,can't remember the given reason though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted March 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 I bought the Innovate sensors for the better readings and calibration feature, but the heater circuit seems to be overloading it or something. they all have their issues, but I need something more bulletproof for everyday use, which was my PLX. It actually uses the other style sensor that is the same as what AEM uses. I still haven't tried the NGK one like Jarek just got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 so I have been using the PLX for a while so time to bump this thread and say it has been in use almost a year and is not broke yet. I still have not checked the sensor reaction time or health using the functions it has. when I do I will report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 and this is how to do that: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2015 I did the sensor health engine brake test today and it was 70, with reaction time of, it just read 999 ms. not sure if it goes higher, but anything beyond 250 means replace the sensor. so I did it again and got 80 health, and it still said 999 reaction time. I do have the sensor in the stock location in the turbine housing so I am assuming this is why I have a sensor that needs replaced. I still plan on plugging that bung in the turbo and weld an angled bung on the downpipe like the instructions say to. Well, now that I have probably shown how to do it the wrong way, I have more proof that the stock location sucks. At least with this sensor, it will attempt to warn you by calculating that in a quick and easy way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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