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AWEB80 Rear Strut Tower Braces for 1st gen W-bodies - pricing in thread

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buy the tube, then hacksaw it to length. Aluminum won't be hard at all to saw through. maybe 2 minutes in a vise.

 

pfft I can hacksaw through the steel stock holding it with my foot in 2 minutes

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Taking over the Aweb80 rear strut tower brace bracket sales from Jamie.

 

Currently have 4 sets in stock.

 

Not currently shipping the bar portion, as you can source it locally cheaper than it is to ship.

 

They are all bare, no powder coat, no paint, this is JUST for the brackets which mount to the strut towers.

 

Fits all 1st gen cars excluding Cutlass Convertibles due to the top needing room to fold down.

 

$45 USD shipped anywhere in Canada and the US.

 

Payment is accepted via PayPal at mshantz83@hotmail.com

 

What you'll get:

 

100_0555.jpg

 

To complete the install you'll need a center bar (1x1 square tube, 37.5" long, with 1/2" holes drilled on 36" centers)

Are these just for rear??

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Whole set up.

 

I know in the past it's always been that you would source your own bar for the brace. I just used a simple piece of square aluminum tubing, cut to fit and drilled the holes. Measurements were all spot on, I just gave them to a guy who does metal fab and he acted like he did it blindfolded

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Ok, update time.

 

I'm going to start selling complete bars as well as just brackets.

 

COMPLETE BARS:

 

$100 shipped w.out hardware, unpainted

$108 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, unpainted

$118 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, painted GLOSS BLACK

 

 

 

BRACKETS ONLY:

 

$45 shipped / pair, unpainted

$52 shipped / pair, painted GLOSS BLACK

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how much does this help

I have front and rear tower bars and can only measure difference in a particular S curve. Without any STBs and a 34mm Z34 front sway bar on Falken Sincera tires I can get my 3100 CS coupe around this S curve at about 45mph without the tires letting go. With front and back tower struts about 60mph is as fast as I feel comfortable pushing it, you`ll notice a difference with the STB`s on your first turn over 20mph.

 

Before my GTP was road ready I had front and rear STB on it, I love them. Anything that increases G force in a car is worth it to me. :thumbsup:

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I've always been curious if anyone has grabbed an accelerometer and done before/after comparisons... you can calculate lateral acceleration around a skidpad with nothing more than knowing the diameter of the driving circle and a stopwatch, but I get the feeling that the strut bars would make even more of a difference with back and forth transitions(since that should cause more extreme movement from the towers), would have to measure peak values for that.

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I guarantee that these ( well STB's in general ) are such a HUGE improvement on these cars. Before I had mine, I could easily find the limit of my car. With the STB's and the new tires I have, I still haven't found the limit around corners. Car will corner flatter, quicker, and more consistent. These unibody cars flex way too much. This helps eliminate that. Not completely, but helps a lot.  

 

Soooo basically, it's worth the investment. 

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I've always been curious if anyone has grabbed an accelerometer and done before/after comparisons... you can calculate lateral acceleration around a skidpad with nothing more than knowing the diameter of the driving circle and a stopwatch, but I get the feeling that the strut bars would make even more of a difference with back and forth transitions(since that should cause more extreme movement from the towers), would have to measure peak values for that.

I bet if we can get a gutted first gen with 5 point harness seat we can measure the length of skidmark lateral movement on the underbritches of the driver. Not as scientific but it might be an easier graph to read than what an accelerometer would yield.

 

I think solid trailing arms make a difference as well as the tubular lat links, I haven't installed my modified lat links yet but I do predict they make a noticeable difference too.

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