Silentkillzr Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 Officially i hate doing first gen w-body brakes. Ever time ive done them i have ran into issues. Todays issues. I removed and installed new brakes on passenger side rear ( discovered a bad hub, will fix later ) everything works fine on this side. I removed and installed new brakes on drivers side rear... Slide pin/pivot point has seized and literally takes a hammer to move up and down. I was able to change rotors via removing the caliper with bracket. Now my drivers side rear is literally stuck from the slidepin not moving. Well the fix is for another day, i shall post results. I dont know really what todo to get it out, ill figure it out im sure. Sledge hammer or something haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I'm doing the same right now. i have a bad driver's rear caliper at 212,000 miles. I tried a trick... I reamed out the bottom hole in the caliper slightly larger for the bottom bushings, cause they are binding up. floats free now, but the driver's rear parking brake is busted. I'm gonna have to get a new brake cable and probably swap that caliper out in january... plus struts, and control arms.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I must be the only person that doesnt have issues with the Gen 1 brakes... If your slides are that bad, it sounds like lack of maintenance/using the wrong product to lube the slides. Or the car has been sitting for yrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 I must be the only person that doesnt have issues with the Gen 1 brakes... Aside from warping a shitload of front rotors years ago, I've had zero problems. No "real" problems with the REAR brakes, ever. Worst thing recently has been tensioning the park brake cable. If your slides are that bad, it sounds like lack of maintenance/using the wrong product to lube the slides. Or the car has been sitting for yrs. I keep hearing about this, but it's not happened on either of my Luminas ('92 and '93) GM has a dingleberry "special tool" hone for renewing the surface of the slides. Part of the special-tool kit from Kent-Moore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 Re title: ME TOO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 18, 2012 Report Share Posted November 18, 2012 What are you using on the slides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 If the calipers are that bad... just replace them? Loaded calipers come complete and you'll save a ton of time and expletives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Looks like a lack of proper service, or neglect. I used to have a TON of problems with the 88-93 brakes, seemed every year the caliper sliders would seize up solid, or the actuator would refuse to retract when brakes needed done. the 94+ brakes are better in every metric IMHO. just make sure the sliders are in good shape, that the boots on them are GOOD, rebuild them if necessary the parts are cheap enough. I've lost one 94+ caliper over the years, versus the 15+ sets of 88-93 ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 My drivers rear refuses to even come off. I can easily get the bottom sliderbolt out but the top wont give at all, i had to hammer it up just to take the brakes off and whatnot. Should i just pound it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 I do believe the caliper just swings up out of the way. 94-96 rears do anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 to the thread title. The only thing that makes me hesitant on buying another one. I didn't have 1 trouble free episode on brakes with the Lumina Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 My girlfriend and I have the same year car, 95's a few months apart on build dates. I have had nothing but issues on both of our cars for brakes. For some reason her's sounds like a warped rotor in the rear when coming up to stops. Everything is wearing fine. I think her slide pin is toasted also considering the pad was worn on one side of the pad weirdly. For some reason everything that is broken on her car isn't on mine, and vise versa. Its always like opposite sides and shit. haha Well i am going to go out in the garage in a bit and try and break my caliper free from the slide/pivot joint. Wish me luck, maybe ill make some videos or something if i get bored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 You got the one bolt out, thats half the battle. Now just pop the caliper straight up and puch back. But as bad as those calipers look, rusted wise, it may not be an easy chore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Well i already swapped new brakes on, so its not so bad. I just have to get this one caliper moving on the slidepins again :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Once you get the pins out, take a 2000 sand paper and go over the pins with it. That will help smooth it out. ( Ive done this several times on the car and the truck ) What type of lube are you using for the slides/pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Most times when I do rear brakes, i get new hardware. I also just did brakes myself and if I had to do it again I would buy the Power Stop set up. And I'm thinking about updating my convertible with this, even though they are new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 $84 for rear and $150 for fronts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Once you get the pins out, take a 2000 sand paper and go over the pins with it. That will help smooth it out. ( Ive done this several times on the car and the truck ) What type of lube are you using for the slides/pins? Stuff from advanced, i didn't really look at it, i was pretty tired when i did that crap lol. Ill look at it when i go out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 The type of lube used on the pins/slides is very important. if you dont use the right type of stuff, then you will be constantly redoing your brakes and hate the car. Ive only had one rear caliper go bad in the entire life of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 The type of lube used on the pins/slides is very important. if you dont use the right type of stuff, then you will be constantly redoing your brakes and hate the car. Ive only had one rear caliper go bad in the entire life of the car. Okay what is the proper grease to use on slidepins for 94-96 brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Something that when you rub it between your fingers, you dont feel any particles. For example anti-seize. Bad stuff. Why? because it consists to metal, copper, and grease. Metal on metal, with moving metal parts and heat = not a good outcome. Ive always used dielectric grease. Why? because there is no particles in it, and it sticks very well to the slides. Not saying you need to use that, but something that will stick onto the slides/pins, so it stays there over the course of 5,000 miles and something smooth so it wont wear anything out and lock it up. Also something that doesnt break down with heat. But thats just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Something that when you rub it between your fingers, you dont feel any particles. For example anti-seize. Bad stuff. Why? because it consists to metal, copper, and grease. Metal on metal, with moving metal parts and heat = not a good outcome. Ive always used dielectric grease. Why? because there is no particles in it, and it sticks very well to the slides. Not saying you need to use that, but something that will stick onto the slides/pins, so it stays there over the course of 5,000 miles and something smooth so it wont wear anything out and lock it up. Also something that doesnt break down with heat. But thats just my .02 Will do, thanks for your input. Im sure i could use the stuff you pack hub bearings with. That puts up to heat, stress, etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 21, 2012 Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 If you can afford it Id recommend products as such: http://www.righttoolusa.com/p/Versachem-26080-Verachem-Synthetic-Caliper-Grease-8oz-Bottle-W-Brush-5695592.html?gclid=CPijxfbf3rMCFYl7Qgod7ycAmw Ive used that stuff before and it worked great. But I still perfer what I use since I used it for so long with great results. But any product similar to the link is what I would recommend over wheel bearing grease. Because even that has very very tiny particles of aluminum and graphite in them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2012 (edited) Okay i thank you for the help in the right direction. This car has been quite the pile. lol Update: I was finally able to get the caliper off the bracket. as i found out, it is no longer the 'slide on' pin style. From what i gathered from autozone website, it looks like you convert it to a bolt through the caliper top. Broke the bolt so i am going to go get a slidepin/bolt kit which has the two sleeves and bolts. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Caliper-Bolt-Guide-Pin/1995-Pontiac-Grand-Prix/_/N-j1nyaZ8knjf?itemIdentifier=78168_0_6064_ Ill also have to disassemble the other side and do the same lol. Thats for tomorrow :/ Edited November 21, 2012 by Silentkillzr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silentkillzr Posted November 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2012 Good news! i got my new sliders and some caliper grease by permatex i believe. They work amazing. My car drives way better now. Thanks for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.