Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 I have an oldsmobile cutlass supreme 94 3.4L v6. The problem is that when I turn on the low beam headlight the voltage meter goes down almost to 8 volts but the thing is that when I switch to the hig beam the voltage goes up and turning other things also makes voltage change but sometimes it goes down. So I think that the alternator was bad and I made this test. With the car turn off I switch the lights on and nothing happend the voltage was good about 10 volts but suddenly when I change to low beam voltage drops and lights and everything almost went of. So I turn off the lights and the voltage went up again. I ve tried this several times and sometimes it happens and sometimes not. I think theres something wrong when I switch the headlamps because when they are off the voltage is good over 13 volts with the car on. I don t know what could cause such drain in the battery without blowing a fuse or something. What can I do? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 First thing I would do is unplug the bulbs and see if it still does it. If so, then you know there's some kind of short in the switch or wiring. If it doesn't ever have the problem without the bulbs, then try plugging one bulb at a time and see if one bulb causes the problem. I've never heard of a shorted bulb, but I think it's theoretically possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skitchin Posted August 9, 2012 Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 First thing I would do is unplug the bulbs and see if it still does it. If so, then you know there's some kind of short in the switch or wiring. If it doesn't ever have the problem without the bulbs, then try plugging one bulb at a time and see if one bulb causes the problem. I've never heard of a shorted bulb, but I think it's theoretically possible. X2 - unplug lowbeams and make sure fog lights are turned off. Because the high beams work fine but lows don't, to me it sounds like a short/high resistance... must not be fused at that point in the circuit, whatever it is. I'd be careful while testing in low beam mode, because that power is going somewhere, and probably trying to burn up a wire or two, though this heat could help hint at where the problem is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 i would think the headlight circuit breaker would trip/reset if it were drawing that much current.... but maybe not. another vote for remove the bulbs and retry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 I have a similar question about my headlights, im just wondering if the interior lights are suppose to dim when headlights/foglights are switched on? It kindof annoys me on cloudy days when like to have my lights on for visibility and it dims my sterio and guages making them harder to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 I have a similar question about my headlights, im just wondering if the interior lights are suppose to dim when headlights/foglights are switched on? It kindof annoys me on cloudy days when like to have my lights on for visibility and it dims my sterio and guages making them harder to see. Yeah, the displays like stereo and climate control are supposed to dim because it's considered "night mode". I don't remember on a 94, but I know on my 89 you can put them back in "day mode" by sliding the interior light brightness control to the position right before it turns on the dome lights. Not sure what you mean by gauges? Analog gauges only light up when lights are on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 Yes, I think I´ll try with the bulbs first. I´ll be posting my tests. Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 A friend told me to look for heat within the wires, also. I think that´s a good hint because the power is draining through somewhere and that would be heat. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 I also think of that, it could be the relay but I don´t know, I think I´ll try everything you told me. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted August 10, 2012 Report Share Posted August 10, 2012 These cars don't have a headlight relay (though using an add-on headlight relay harness is a good idea). Yes, there could be heat in the wires from an area of abnormally high resistance. Usually this happens in connectors when the contacts don't make good enough contact and heat builds up there. I had this happen and it melted the firewall connector. It made my headlights and foglights non-functional since they were powered by the same wire. I had to bypass the connector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 (edited) Ah shouldnt have been drinking and i could spell. Instrument cluster is probably better than gauges, On my CS there is a slider like what you are refering to but even on its brightest setting its still to dim under certain daylight conditions. I thought i might have had a problem other than OEM design. I plan on going aftermarket soon as funds allow it so i can deal with it for now. Edited August 11, 2012 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 Here is a VERY likely scenario to look into, you may have a REMOTE AUXILIARY POWER TERMINAL PROBLEM: POSSIBLE SOLUTION: The cable has come loose on several different cars I have from there. First things first, if you have the thin copper/brass washer... GET A REAL NUT. real nuts were used on that power contact starting around 1995, that is where I have source all replacement nuts on every vehicle I've touched. DO NOT USE A "CRUSHED" NUT, such as the ones used on the strut tower: though they are the right thread pitch they can snap your power stud off. The proper nut will spin freely on the stud. Once/if you have a real nut, add a stainless steel lock washer between the nut and the cable end and tighten snugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I´m still with the problem but now the left low beam headlight stop working. I was very busy this weekend and I couln´t fix anything but with this new problem I think I could narrow the searching and testing. I´m worried about the heat, the failure could cause something to burn out!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 The remote auxiliary power terminal is the thing next to de cruise control? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 The remote auxiliary power terminal is the thing next to de cruise control? yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicutlass_Supremacy Posted August 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 Problem solved!!!!! Thanks Crazy!!! The remote auxiliary terminal was getting hot because it was not tighten and had some rust. I cleaned the terminals and tighten everything back and now all works fine!!! THANKSSS!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 17, 2012 Report Share Posted August 17, 2012 NO PROBLEMO! share the advice if you see anyone else in need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman87 Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Problem solved for me to! Thank you. For 4 months I've been seeing the voltage drop from accelerating, turning on the headlights, using the signal, windows and mostly anything else electrical. I was on my 2nd alternator and a new battery, with no change. Then I came across this thread. I cleaned up the remote auxiliary terminal connections and now everything seems to be back to normal!!! Thank you so much!!! Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 This forum has been going for a long time and with all the info here sometimes it takes a while to search through all the threads. I'm glad your ride is running ship shape again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
primergray Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Yeah...apparently there's a brass terminal out there, B body folks seem to be all afraid of fires and whatnot, but none of them seem to have tried the simpler fix of just cleaning the damn terminal. This thread helped me figure out what to fix also. http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/CONNECTOR-Chassis-Electrical/2605141/12176639.html The thicker brass nut is also helpful, as an easier alternative to replacing the whole terminal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.