Gunboat Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 Does anyone know where I might be able to buy the accumilator springs for a '91 4t60e tranny at? I've tried Autozone and Advanced auto,no luck,thin that I'm going to have to go to the dealer? I hope not.. thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 5, 2012 Report Share Posted August 5, 2012 JY. did you break yours?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunboat Posted August 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 I don't know,I'd rather have them when I take it apart and just put them back in,I am having shift problems with 2-3..slips sometimes,sometimes it doesn't..just wondering where I might get them other than the dealers.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 miles? ever been rebuilt? ive never heard of a spring breaking myself. more likely that the clutches are starting to slip. Trans fluid fresh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunboat Posted August 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 fresh change,new filter..I had a post in another thread and someone suggested that it 'could' be the springs...1-2 is fine shifting,2-3 sometimes slips,sometimes doesn't...fluid is full up...no smells of burnt or off color.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 Does anyone know where I might be able to buy the accumilator springs for a '91 4t60e tranny at? Any local transmission shop. fresh change,new filter..I had a post in another thread and someone suggested that it 'could' be the springs...1-2 is fine shifting,2-3 sometimes slips,sometimes doesn't...fluid is full up...no smells of burnt or off color.. Broken accumulator spring would probably result in a very firm shift--not slippage. Some folks deliberately REMOVE the accumulator spring in the mistaken impression that this amounts to a "shift kit". It will firm up the shift; but the shift timing is messed up. Can cause damage to the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunboat Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Any local transmission shop. Broken accumulator spring would probably result in a very firm shift--not slippage. Some folks deliberately REMOVE the accumulator spring in the mistaken impression that this amounts to a "shift kit". It will firm up the shift; but the shift timing is messed up. Can cause damage to the trans. any idea as to why it just wants to slip from 2nd to 3rd,and only at different times and different loads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 (edited) any idea as to why it just wants to slip from 2nd to 3rd,and only at different times and different loads? Early signs of a defective seal. Sometimes it actually seals...sometimes it doesn't??? Defective shift solenoid??? Edited August 13, 2012 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Any local transmission shop. Broken accumulator spring would probably result in a very firm shift--not slippage. Some folks deliberately REMOVE the accumulator spring in the mistaken impression that this amounts to a "shift kit". It will firm up the shift; but the shift timing is messed up. Can cause damage to the trans. NEGATIVE. A shift accumulator has a piston that is spring loaded to regulate the change in fluid pressure during a shift. the faster the piston equalizes the quicker the shift. a broken spring slows the shift down, while a firmer or shimmed spring speeds the shift up. even better... a stuck piston... gives you whiplash. (yes, been there, done that) Function of the accumulator is to regulate line pressure for the bands(or similar) to apply. the piston holds against line pressure and reaches equilibrium with fluid pressure. the amount of throttle affect line pressure affecting the speed of the shift(more - faster). Again, the final stage of shifting completes with the piston equalizes. Firmed up spring results in lower equalization time results in quicker firmer shift. Broken spring results in delayed equlization and therefore the shift is slow and sloppy. yes, too much shimming can hurt the transmission, but a little does not hurt. I do like to mod my accumulators. I always install the 2-3 spring set in both the 1-2 and 2-3 (the ones in the pan, and easy to do) I also add a washer (5/8ths, iirc) as a shim to the 2-3 for sure... result is much more solid crisp shifts, but ones that are not harsh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunboat Posted August 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 new solenoid...no leaks or loss of fluid,I would really like to get this fixed as inexpensively as possible...with as little work as possible...no codes are set...if I get on it,it will shift just fine,but if I drive "normally" it wants to slip,I have to let off the gas and ease into it and it drives fine,if I'm going to slow and give it the gas,it will slip,again,until I let off of the gas and like I said,ease into it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 I have had luck with washer/shims myself. Extended life a bit. The transmission rebuilder saw those shims and said "Cool!". I pulled some accumulators from pullapart until i found stems and cups not wallowed out. A writeup with pics helped me. I dont recall where I found it. I usually find Crazy K knows what he is talking about. I used a weighing scale for vegetables, a stick and a lever to compare the spring rates and selected the best from those. I think Transgo has these parts if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 The springs are pretty stiff. I bought a couple new ones for S&G's when I did my trans rebuild. My stock ones were fine, btw. Had to get them from a GM Dealer and they didn't even have all 4, only 2 of them. Check the FAQ section for my write up on how to put them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 (edited) I should work in a bit of a write-up for what and how I've done this.... I use common 5/8 washers available from Lowes, Homes depot, Tractor Supply. (lets say 1/8 inch thick each?) One added to the 1-2 piston, two added to the 2-3 piston. In each accumulator I use BOTH of the STOCK J/Y 2-3 Accumulator springs from a J/Y 4t60e. I saw a chart somewhere that listed them by part number and virtually all mid to full sized vehicles with a 4t60e had the firmest ones that they made. A known exception is A bodies as they are too soft, and I wouldn't bother with a N, L or J body for the parts either. Stick to W or H bodies. and yes, I have seen broken springs. i have seen several coming from a couple different transmissions I have serviced or striped for parts at the junkyard. the last vehicle i modified was a 1995 ciera which wouldn't spill water from an overfilled glass on the dash on any shift, it had very soft accumulator springs and one was broken. That car now has the washer mod and two sets of heavy duty 2-3 springs in it's accumulator and shifts crisp, not too soft, not to firm. Edited October 25, 2012 by Crazy K Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidHowell3633 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 As I recall I had to use my caliper and then enlarge the diameter of the washer since it did not seat all the way to the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 As I recall I had to use my caliper and then enlarge the diameter of the washer since it did not seat all the way to the base. I forgot to mention, the washers i used had to be reduced in diameter by maybe 1/16 of an inch, but the center hole ws large enough to go into the piston. there is actually a fair amount of clearance between the center hole and the center of the piston, but I tested the spring against it and the spring will not travel into the gap. I also did the same thing using metric washers, which needed turned down but were able to completely fill the gap mentioned above, but at TEN times the cost. :s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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