1blkgtp422 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I thought I read on here there is a way to do it without pulling intake off? I believe it said you can test 3 and get a avg? Correct me if im wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 I just went ahead and did them all one at a time. 13.1 and a couple 12.9s across the board so injectors are good. My fuel guage shows that it slowly leaks down pressure when I prime the injectors. I also had the rail off and primed and didnt see anything leaking. Im thinking maybe FPR? Any ideas? Went ahead and ordered some new blue orings for injectors anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95 vert Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Cycle the key on to pressure the system, then take vise grips and pinch the return line and watch the pressure. If it bleeds off, you need a pump. If it doesn't, you need a regulator. (Providing the injectors aren't leaking) Don't pinch the line first-pressure may go very high. And be careful pinching the plastic line. You don't want to damage it permanently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted May 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 After replacing FPR and all orings in the rail and injector system I no longer have a leak down issue. However the car still idles rough in gear and has no power on takeoff. If you ease into it then it will get up and go. I left fuel pressure guage hooked up and went for a 10 min ride. The car idles at around 35-36 psi. Durin acceleration the most I have seen is 47-48 psi. What is spec for these cars? There was no sudden drop off in fuel pressure while driving the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted May 29, 2012 Report Share Posted May 29, 2012 hello. read the My TGP is Ill thread. similar issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 I decided to test my wires for spark. Sure enough cylinder 1 had no spark. Put in a coil pack from parts car and problem fixed! I guess 5 cylinder tgps tend to run like shit. Now I know how powerfull this car really is. Especially after a tune from Adam. I can actually spin the tires now lol. Cars runs great now I just gotta adjust tv cable and ill have a good running tgp..... For now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGTGP Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I decided to test my wires for spark. Sure enough cylinder 1 had no spark. Put in a coil pack from parts car and problem fixed! I guess 5 cylinder tgps tend to run like shit. Now I know how powerfull this car really is. Especially after a tune from Adam. I can actually spin the tires now lol. Cars runs great now I just gotta adjust tv cable and ill have a good running tgp..... For now glad to hear shes running good again. and as for the ( for now.... ) part. I totally know what you mean lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 For now has come and gone lol. ABS light was blinking and then I lost brakes completly. It has done this before then I park car and brakes work fine the next day. The damn pump has been running every pedal press and it being 85 degrees doesnt help either. I think im gonna need a accumlator so I hope the one in my parts car is good. Also the car still stalls when warm like it did before I fixed the coil prob. I had ICM tested 3 times to get real warm and it passed. Also fuel pressure seems to be good as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted June 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Is this the correct accumulator http://www.oehq.com/oeparts_ACD18M874.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 23, 2012 Report Share Posted June 23, 2012 what kind of volts, IAC steps,and rpm's are you seeing during stalling? you had better fix that first, before all electronics in your car suffer including your PM3 pump and fuel pump. make the IAC motor work overtime to save every single other electronic part in the vehicle. mine does. its barely keeping it from stalling and opens over twice as far as a stock tune. 80-120 steps is not uncommon but it's not always that high. that is compared to 40-80 steps, what you will probably see stalling is very hard on all electronics if ignored long enough. those voltage dips do untold amounts of damage every time they drop below 12 volts. all these reports of stalling is giving me flashbacks of the 2008-2011 years before I learned how to tune for the alcohol-gas. it has to be the fuel, because before that between 2001-2007 I bought a top gun chip from jeff m, and it never stalled. the stock chip used to stall on occasion but not like it does now. when its warm like you say, does it stall out when the rad fan kicks on? if so, then that is a SEVERE voltage dip. and it can be completely tuned out in one shot. it's the kind of power surge that makes the ABS pump motor change tone, or slow down audibly. the fuel pump does the same thing during those events. it is a worm gear turning such a high RPM that it needs a steady flow of voltage/fuel to keep it cool enough to not seize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 I am ordering cable so I can scan the car. I havent drove it since I had the problem. The stock chip would stall out as well but I thought I remebered putting it in nuetral when it stalled and restarting it. Now it wont restart in nuetral and I have to be at a stop in park. The car will stay running fine when rad fan kicks on also. It just stalls at random times and speeds like when I was on a exit ramp and lost power steering:mad:. I will scan when I get my cable and check volts iac and rpms when it stalls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Nice! I just got another cable from a guy on here for $40. running tunerpro 5, are you using that one? I love that program. best one ever and we get to use it for so cheap for what it is. I was one of the first people to use it, got it the day it came out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1blkgtp422 Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I am planning on using tuner pro. I have only used power tuner for my GTP. I think you might be right on the voltage dip. Today I was paying attention to when the rad fan turned on and sure enough 10 secs after fan turned on it stalled at idle. Also when pm3 motor runs the headlights will dim. Idle was a little shaky but no to bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 well it is the biggest user of power on the car. tgp fans have a huge motor. bigger than most cars. it is awesome that you can command for more steps for the fan though. makes the idle run sooooo much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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