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Digi UB3 adapter


94 olds vert
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As much as I would love to help people out and be able to sell these. I'm just really busy right now. I don' have the time to make these.

 

Granted this one was the first one I made took me about 2-3 hours to get the parts and assemble it. I made another and refined it a bit more. Didn't take me as long the second time around.

 

If my situation changes. I'll let you know.

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As much as I would love to help people out and be able to sell these. I'm just really busy right now. I don' have the time to make these.

 

Granted this one was the first one I made took me about 2-3 hours to get the parts and assemble it. I made another and refined it a bit more. Didn't take me as long the second time around.

 

If my situation changes. I'll let you know.

 

You are awesome! I know you could sell at least two. There is another guy on here looking for one also. I am going to try and find the DIS now. Then I will figure what I need to do if I can't get an adapter made.

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Not sure who'd want my prototype. Lol I didn't even trust it enough to use it.

 

Installing a DIS is pretty simple. You know the fuel info gauges wont work correctly with the OBD 1.5. All the other functions will work great.

 

I can give you some tips and pointers on installing a DIS as well.

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If someone could get me the harnesses and pin-outs I might give it a go. Does anyone have closeup pics of the two connectors? Wiring = easy

 

John, I can get you pictures if you like. You need the connector from a 89 to 91 cutlass that already has a digi ub3 or has the analog cluster. A base cluster will not have the same type of connector

 

You need the Internal connector I beilve the female end inside a 1994 CS cluster. Must also be the UB3.

 

Those can be a bit time consuming to remove without breaking them too much. A little bit of brokenness is okay. You physically have to snap it to get t off.

 

John I can get you more info if you like. There are some links on my first page that should be of some use.

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go pics of this connector you're removing? pretty good chance that i can find new versions of it, GM liked to reuse a lot of the interior connectors.

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12052474

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12052474/?qs=kzAZ%2feb4AO3AYBE%252b6fDH%252bg%3d%3d

 

no image, but i checked out the engineering drawing for it on power&signal, it's the male end (soldered on the instrument cluster PCB.)

 

now just need to find somewhere to acquire them that don't require gigantic part order minimums. :lol:

 

 

 

though honestly, there are PROBABLY other 32 pin connectors that could be used in place of it.... just need some trimming to do so. the 93-95 3100 PCM uses such a connector, it would probably match, if i had to guess, and you can buy those individually for like ~$1 each through mouser.

 

i can grab the p/n for those if necessary.

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My reasoning not to hack up the cluster or DIS wires is that it can be all undone by just removing that connector. I ran my leads for the Dis off the Ub3 adapter killed two birds with one stone.

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I ran my leads for the Dis off the Ub3 adapter killed two birds with one stone.

 

easily saleable item for anyone looking to add digi UB3 and DIS at the same time. just saying. :lol:

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John, I can get you pictures if you like. You need the connector from a 89 to 91 cutlass that already has a digi ub3 or has the analog cluster. A base cluster will not have the same type of connector

 

You need the Internal connector I beilve the female end inside a 1994 CS cluster. Must also be the UB3.

 

Those can be a bit time consuming to remove without breaking them too much. A little bit of brokenness is okay. You physically have to snap it to get t off.

 

John I can get you more info if you like. There are some links on my first page that should be of some use.

 

I picked up a digi cluster from the junk yard the other day. If I go back and cut the harness out of the car for the cluster could I wire my digi cluster up to my 94 olds vert? And is there anyone on here or online selling a DIS? Would love to install them both at the same time.

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Yeah you should grab a good portion of the wiring and the connector.

 

You'll still need an end to plug into the connector in your car. Or you could try to put the wires in the connector and see how well they stay. I can't imagine they would stay in by them self.

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Best bet a junkyard. From a 94 CS. You will need to take apart the cluster to get the female end that the harness plugs into. You will need to break it off from the cluster.

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Ok, I guess I will pick up another analog cluster to break apart and get the female connector. Going to be a fun time putting this all together.

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Save your self the cost of another cluster. Doesn't take long to rip one apart at the yard and get out the female end.

 

I can do it in two minutes.

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So I can just take the existing part on my present cluster and use that? It's a analog '94, I don't plan on ever putting it back in. Actually first, how can I test the digital dash that's going to be put in it's place? I don't want to tear apart the analog if the digital isn't working, know what I mean.

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That's a great question!

 

Here is a video of me bench testing mine a while ago.

 

 

Here is the info I used from back then. It's form Ken, so i know it's good.

 

1990 digital UB3 CS cluster

connector Pin# Wire color function

dUB3-C1 PNK/BLK INDICator FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+)

dUB3-C2 LT BLU left turn indicator (+)

dUB3-C3 DK BLU right turn indicator (+)

dUB3-C4 TAN/WHT brake indicator (-)

dUB3-C5 GRY/WHT "Antilock" indicator

dUB3-C6 TAN/BLK shift indicator (-)

dUB3-C7 LT GRN high beam indicator (+)

dUB3-C8 --- not used

dUB3-C9 --- not used

dUB3-C10 YEL VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming)

dUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+)

dUB3-C12 --- not used

dUB3-C13 ORN Serial data link to aldl (for tach and data)

dUB3-C14 BLK.WHT ground

dUB3-C15 --- not used

dUB3-C16 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit hot in run (+)

connector Pin# Wire color function

dUB3-D1 BLK ground for indicator bulbs

dUB3-D2 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator

dUB3-D3 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator

dUB3-D4 BRN "charge indicator"

dUB3-D5 BRN/WHT "service Engine Soon" indicator

dUB3-D6 --- not used

dUB3-D7 --- not used

dUB3-D8 --- not used

dUB3-D9 LT/BLU english metric switch ouput(switch part of cluster)

dUB3-D10 BRN/WHT VF dimmer input

dUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure sensor input

dUB3-D12 DK GRN/WHT coolant temperature sensor input

dUB3-D13 PPL fuel level sender input

dUB3-D14 --- not used

dUB3-D15 DK GRN VSS speedometer input

dUB3-D16 ORN ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, cluster memory (+)

 

 

tony. the grounds CAN vary in the exact color.... but here is the pinouts. Those are the hots and grounds for the cluster.

 

 

 

So basically what wires you need to get power to are C1 and C16 and that's it. No need to run power to D16 as it's only for memory. You should ground C14 and D1.

 

Run them to an extra battery(a drill battery works good for this) and put the + on the positive posts and the - on the negative post.

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Run them to an extra battery(a drill battery works good for this) and put the + on the positive posts and the - on the negative post.

 

careful with this. if it's ~15 volts or less, then it will be fine, but above that and you'll risk damaging the unit.

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a fully charged 12 volt will be quite fine.

 

the craftsman unit wifey got me for christmas sits at almost 21 volts when it's fresh off the charger(18 volt pack). bad things would happen if that were connected to an instrument cluster.

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