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Replacing rear caliper piston boot, quick question


rich_e777
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Hi guys, changing my rear pads and i kind of ripped the rubber boot that goes around the piston, no biggy ordered a rebuild kit with another one from autozone( probably should`ve got a whole new to me caliper from pull a part for 4 bucks less oh well) From what i understand the rear needs a tool to compress as it looks as if the piston threads into the caliper. I`ll borrow one or i have a tool i made to twist it in. Im not wanting to replace all the little o-rings and seals because they are ok, its just my dumbass that dropped the caliper and the boot hit a sharp corner and it ripped.

 

ok question.

 

How far does the piston need to be threaded into the caliper?

Any tips or advice you guys have would be awesome.

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is your car 93-down or 94-up?

 

regardless its just a matter of turning it till its about flush with the body of the caliper with the + in the piston being level so the new rear pads can clip in right.

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Thxs man thats kindof what i was thinking but didnt want to screw it up more than i already have. Shes a `94 built in `93 in Atlanta.

Not sure what you mean by the +, I dont see it on anything. The head of the piston looks more like a fat bloated hourglass.

On my car the pads insert into clips then the caliper goes on rather than the pads inserting into the caliper like in the front.

Do i need any special kind of lube or do i just use brake fluid for the threading?

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I believe the top of the piston should either look like a + or maybe have 2 dots on it where some tits on the back of the brake pad go into... regardless there will be an indented area that you use to turn it back and to line the back of the pad into.

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Right on the money, now i just have to wait for that boot to get to autozone so i can drive my car again. Friday just cant come soon enough:thumbsup:

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You'll probably find it easier to get a good used caliper than change the seal.....

 

the two indentations on the piston should be positioned so they are on a horizontal plane for the piston to function properly, just in case the pads you have lack the guide bumps...

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You are right, pull a part would charge me about $5 bucks with core replacement and the autozone kit cost $10.00, but i already ordered it and pullapart is on the other side of town. Check this out, for a temp. fix i took plumbers tape that only sticks to itself and wrapped it around the piston a good bit and put it all back together and i went to pick up my check and tested it a bit and it sealed it perfectly! Only temporary `til Friday but it does work if someone were to be in the same situation as me. God i love my Cutlass! Wouldnt trade her for nothing:thumbsup: I got Duralast pads so when they were down b4 next october i can get another set free. 1 year warranty.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Follow up time, got everything back together and working fine. To those looking to do some work on the rear calipers that requires a special tool to twist the piston back in. You do not need to have this tool, it makes it easier but not required, take a wrench(i used a 1/2in) with a closed end and use a screwdriver or metal rod of whatever to use as leverage, and then you can slow turn the piston until it gets back into place. Its kindof slow going but it does work:thumbsup:

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