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Spark Plugs and wires LQ1


BrianK82
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Started to change my spark plugs on my 94' Cutlass 3.4 today, the front ones appeared to be original, and the gap was an eye opening .075, yet she still runs well. Decided to dive into the backs, only to find that someone at one time or maybe just old age has destroyed the pull handles on the back three plugs. Two are broken, one is missing. I decided to stop before I opened Pandoras box by pulling on the wires and having the wire pull out and leave the boot in the hole. I am going to have to pull the plenum to get at these appropriately. Any tips on pulling the plenum? How bad is it to route the wires from the coils back to those rear plugs? I think the PS pump will have to come out and then use some wire to pull them through? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks

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Plenum is easy.

 

Remove the bolts that you see. On the back, there should be a large vacuum hose and clamp. Slide the clamp down the hose, pull the hose off the plenum. Remove throttle cables from the throttle body, and I think the coolant hoses there as well. Unplug connectors for IAC, TPS, and any other devices. Then lift up on the plenum.

 

Someone correct me if I am missing anything.

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^ That pretty much covers the plenum removal, you will have to drain a portion of the coolant to allow removal of the short heated throttle body passage hose. (mounted vertical under the plenum next to the throttle body). The routing of the plug wires isn't really difficult, it just takes a little more time. You pass the rear bank wires under the forward bank plastic cover on the front end of the cam gallery (remove the cover) and then they are routed inside split loom to the rear plug terminals. If your new set are original replacement Delco wires the front bank are red and the rear bank are gray.

 

GPEngine008Large.jpg

 

Picture004Large.jpg

Edited by 55trucker
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I got a lil' into it before I noticed what was going on with the rear cylinders. I ran into trouble below the throttle body. There is a quick disconnect heater hose fitting and it blocks access to a bolt which is retaining the fuel lines into a bracket bolted to the throttle body cable bracket. It seems like all of the above will have to be removed to get the plenum off, or is there a faster way?

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Picture001Large-1.jpg

The heater pipe shouldn't cause any sort of headache when removing that short bolt that retains the fuel line support. If memory serves the bolt head is a 10mm and can be got at with a speed wrench. The LQ1's don't tilt as the trans mount doesn't allow it, if the powertrain COULD tilt that would life so much easier. :D

Edited by 55trucker
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Your mention of color confused me... I've got OEM AC/Delco wires on my LQ1, and a brand-new spare set, and all 6 are grey!

 

^ That pretty much covers the plenum removal, you will have to drain a portion of the coolant to allow removal of the short heated throttle body passage hose. (mounted vertical under the plenum next to the throttle body). The routing of the plug wires isn't really difficult, it just takes a little more time. You pass the rear bank wires under the forward bank plastic cover on the front end of the cam gallery (remove the cover) and then they are routed inside split loom to the rear plug terminals. If your new set are original replacement Delco wires the front bank are red and the rear bank are gray.

 

GPEngine008Large.jpg

 

Picture004Large.jpg

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Somewhat odd & very disappointing. Mind you, it's been a few years since my last replacement. The purpose of the two colors was/is to aid in where they each go, not just cosmetic. I suppose that even Delco has cut corners where cost is involved. I think that Prestolite still makes a set for the pre 96 engines in the red/grey.

I personally like the red wires up front.

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