xtremerevolution Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 x2, but the way I see it, and I'm guessing for our OP as well, doing something different counts for a lot. That's why I'd love to also do a good NA LQ1 build. If going as fast as possible for as cheap as possible it all that mattered, none of us would even have w-bodies! We'd all have hot compacts or LS1 f-bodies or something. Lord help us all! And I'm honestly not sure it'd be too much cheaper/easier since you'd have to get past the up front costs and work to procure and swap in an L67. Every person and salvage yard is proud of an L67 in price and it'll probably need rebuilt bottom end and SC, plus a different PCM and the 98-99 Z34/LTZ subframe, engine mounts, and wiring harness. Here we're working with what we already have. Plus it's an LQ1, it's not like the starting point is a 140 hp LH0. We have 215hp stock and all it takes to crest 7k RPM on one is a removed rev limiter (and raised WOT shift points on an auto). You have to do more than just remove the rev limiter. I doubt gm set it to what they did for no reason. Valve float comes to mind at higher RPMs. Be ready to replace 24 valve springs. I got my L67 complete minus a maf for $180. Maybe around there they may be expensive, but not where Bob got it. I guess it depends where you live. Also, nobody rebuilds 3800s. The bottom end is very high tolerance and doesn't respond well to rebuilds. Most people just run a new short block. Cheaper and easier than a rebuild. The PCM can come from a 3800 1.5 gen, but this is all common knowledge. You could realistically be in the high 13s for ~$1000 if you did the work yourself and got the kind of deals I was able to (with Bob's help of course). I should be somewhere in the mid 13s. Dare to be different, I respect that, but you have no choice but to respect that the Buick pushrod motor under the hood of my 95 Regal will still rip you a new one every time that staging light turns green no matter what work you do while naturally aspirated. Turbo is another matter entirely. If you wanted to keep that motor, screw port work and expensive hp. Learn why DOHC motors do so well under boost and turbo the damn thing. It will be the most cost effective way to make REAL power. Anything else you do until that turbo that's not in preparation for the turbo will be a waste of time and money. Been there, done that. Sent from my HTC Awesome using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Where are some of these builds? All I've ever found searching here and 60V6 for LQ1 builds are guys who have gone Turbo/SC. I have yet to find good build anyone has ever done on an NA LQ1 in a w-body. Jason, to answer to your suggestions up top, 96-97 already have higher compression pistons than 91-95 engines. Since you're going to be buying pistons anyways and have a 96-97, I'd look into some of the hypereutectic 96-97 ones that are for sale. You can find them for good prices on places like summitracing.com For injectors, remember that LQ1's have dual-pattern injectors since there are 2 intake valves so it's not the best idea to run an OHV injector. I have some injectors out of a Suzuki with a GM LY7 (3.6L DOHC) that I plan to run. They are rated a couple pounds higher than LQ1 injectors, and the 07-up LY7 injectors I bought GM brags up about their highly atomized mixture. Either way it has to be way better than our old Multecs. My plan is to change the FPR and run them at the 58 psi they run at in their native application, so even though the injectors themselves are only a bit bigger we should be able to get quite a bit more flow. For P&P, Ben @ WOT-TECH quoted me (through PM @ 60V6) $450 to do the heads a couple months ago. He says he knows what works on an LQ1. Just talk to him about your build. He's very willing to talk to you. Why do you plan to go -13 exhaust? From that one Fiero page? I think that was one of the first experimentations. There are a whole slew of combos out there people have run, but from what I've read on 60V6, +6/-6 is generally regarded as the best change, although any actual dyno data is hard to come by, so it's impossible to know anything for sure. Search the username kevwood. Iirc, he was on here and 60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 I would love to see a built DOHC and even turboed. 3800's are easy, yes, but ubiquitous. Let's see some 60* power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 You have to do more than just remove the rev limiter. I doubt gm set it to what they did for no reason. Valve float comes to mind at higher RPMs. Be ready to replace 24 valve springs. I've done it to mine! Set them at 7200 RPM . Just for awhile though just to do it. I have it set back down to 6800 for longevity purposes on an 200,000 mile engine. I'm hoping to get it out to the 1/4 and get a a couple runs sometime soon so I may put them back up there when I do. These things love to rev and the you can really feel the power slack off after it upshifts, then it comes back as the engine revs back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/17190-Lightspeed-Speaks-about-Dynos-and-Kevwood http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/31291-Build-up-pics-so-far...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 I'd vote for building your 3.4, for the same reason I'm building my 3400 (again) I dont wanna jump on the 3.8/L67 bandwagon... You tend to take alot more pride in something that you build that not everybody has... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 I've done it to mine! Set them at 7200 RPM . Just for awhile though just to do it. I have it set back down to 6800 for longevity purposes on an 200,000 mile engine. I'm hoping to get it out to the 1/4 and get a a couple runs sometime soon so I may put them back up there when I do. These things love to rev and the you can really feel the power slack off after it upshifts, then it comes back as the engine revs back up. Part of that may be due to cat over-temp protection built into the PCM. It pulls timing at the high RPM range right before the shift. Longevity will be an issue at 10,000 miles or 200,000 miles when you crank your redline way past what it should be, but 400rpm may not be that big of a change on a DOHC motor. Nonetheless, valve float is a real problem. I'd vote for building your 3.4, for the same reason I'm building my 3400 (again) I dont wanna jump on the 3.8/L67 bandwagon... You tend to take alot more pride in something that you build that not everybody has... I take a lot of pride in knowing that there are only 2 other (that I know of) 1st gen Regal Coupes that are L67 swapped, and neither of them have the suspension mods I do. Could I have fixed and modded the old L27? Sure. The guys in Australia were putting down 350whp+ on turbo Series 1 3800s, so its certainly possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) Not everyone wants a 90 degree boat anchor under the hood. Ultimately, it's up to you, but I like to see something that is unique. That said, I'm rooting for the LQ1. Edited October 1, 2011 by Addicted To Boost Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeremy Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Fuck being unique. Build something fast and easy....turbo 3800. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtremerevolution Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Not everyone wants a 90 degree boat anchor under the hood. Bot anchors usually don't go head to head with a 2011 Ford Taurus SHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Bot anchors usually don't go head to head with a 2011 Ford Taurus SHO. LOL, you're almost calling it a boat anchor (which of course they aren't) by comparing it to a SHO. Those things are not that fast, especially for having a twin turbo V6. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted October 1, 2011 Report Share Posted October 1, 2011 Fuck being unique. Build something fast and easy....turbo 3800. As much as I hate the 3800, I'd take a Turbo 3800 over an L67 in a heartbeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Ok some plans have changed. For now I am going to add my bolt on's to the 3.4. I need to beat a 2000 Nissan Maxima with the 3.0 engine in the 1/4 mile. After that, I will probably swap engines someday. But for now, it will be a lot cheaper. I'm only putting parts on that I got, and to get stuff to tune it up. I've raced him in it with my SRX and I can take him no problem. Mods I'm adding... DOHC V6's FWI, FFP Dog Bone, FFP Underdrive Pulley, Injectors, 96+ Intake Mani, Bens Chip, Would like to buy some thermo spacers. Free mods are ... Unplugging the EGR, Adjusting the Cam timing And as much weigh reduction as possible. I will gut the interior to just the drivers chair and the dash. What else can be removed? I'm going to do a A/C Delete I'm thinking as well. Any idea's what other big heavy stuff can be removed? Ofcourse the spare will be off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I gutted the interior in the festiva and I sure do miss it all.... and I don't even need/use it all.... it's just so hard/loud/cold/uncomfortable. If you do it, keep all the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alec_b Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 (edited) For some reason I don't see that maxima being THAT fast. I've driven plenty of 5-speed 3.0 maximas, they're nothing special. Now a VQ35 with a stick... that I could believe. But at least you have a goal. I'm on the DOHC boat. Do you really have to gut it out to be faster than your friend? I bet his maxima still has a radio. And, you know, carpet. And seats. Edited November 9, 2011 by alec_b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jman093 Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 What else can be removed? I'm going to do a A/C Delete I'm thinking as well. Any idea's what other big heavy stuff can be removed? Ofcourse the spare will be off. Cut the converter? Will save a little weight and free up a few ponies. At WOT the unplugging the EGR isn't going to affect horsepower. Ditch the AIR setup as well if equipped. That whole setup on my car was heavier than I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Fuck being unique. Build something fast and easy....turbo 3800. Yup. Being unique is cool and all, and a great way to find a new path for the 3.4.. but I'm sure will be disappointing after all the time and money invested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 turbo the LQ1 if you wanna make big power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I agree with euro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q-Ball Posted November 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 I will only be gutting it for the track. I will put everything back in after. He will be gutting his car for sure at the track and any other advantage he can get get. He already has a cat back, intake. And its Auto. I probably wont be cutting the cat converter at this point. No turbo yet. We are doing this bet N/A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted November 9, 2011 Report Share Posted November 9, 2011 Auto VQ30DE's aren't exactly high horsepower monsters. Realistically, with an exhaust and intake he's probably in low 15's, high 14's. The 2000-2001 Maxima's are the VQ30DE-K, which is certainly the best VQ30 you could get at ~220 HP/TQ, but I don't think it would take too much for 5-speed LQ1 to at least keep up. You're going to need to nail the launch and try to keep him at bay, as the VQ30's power is largely skewed toward the top end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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