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96 Olds Cutlass cooling issue


RickC
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The cooling fans wont come on on my 96 cutlass with the 3.1 I have replaced the temp sensor and they still wont come on , gauge works though, when I unplug sensor fans come on and run fine. Thought maybe a defective sensor got another same results. Any ideas?

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sounds like your coolant temp never gets high enough to activate the fans. fan1 should come on around 230*F, fan 2 a little higher than that.

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If your gauge is working correctly, then when the temp reaches *** check and see if your driver side fan is running. If it is then you don't have any problems. It may not be the driver side fan, but the passenger side. As long as one is running your in good shape. The other fan doesn't turn on much. Only at 230.

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just checked, factory fan settings for a 96 3100 W-body:

 

fan1 on: 108*C, turns off under 104*C

fan2 on: 111*C, turns off under 108*C

 

corresponds to 226/219 and 232/226 in *F.

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if unplugging the sensor gets them to turn on, then the fuses/relays are fine. it's the PCM; either it's not seeing a high enough coolant temp to turn them on in normal situations or something is wrong with the tune.

 

find someone with an OBD2 scanner, let the coolant temp(as reported on the scanner, the cluster guage isn't very accurat) get up to the temps i posted above, if the fans don't come on in 10 seconds or so when above the temps, then something else is wrong.

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  • 2 years later...

Gauge operates based on resistance. The ECT changes resistance, inversly related. When temperature rises resistance lowers. The gauges ground through the ECT, that being said this is how the ECT affects the gauge when resistance is high((temp is low)) power through the ECT is lower due to ECT resistance. When resistance is low((high temp)) power through the ECT increases.. When unplugging the ECT the resistance not only raises, the circuit is now open on the ground and now power passes throught the gauge, thus leaving it at C... less resistance= greater current to move the needle. Im dealing with a similar problem. By jumping the wires to the gauge with 1ohm, you cant really deam the gauge as accurate, but as operating, due to the fact that we dont know where the needle should sit at what resistance value. What ive found out is at about 226 when fan 2 should come on, the gauge is in the red. Im wondering if this is due to a gauge being out of calibration. Does anyone know where the gauge should sit at 226???? Also if the vehicle does not have heads up display the overheat light seems to be wired through the gauge, so my guess is a inaccurate gauge can through a false overheat light???? hope to help and also looking for help. Any help is appriecated. Thanks guys.

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