cutlassdude96 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 AC Rapidfires are another choice to use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 The gaskets in the Dorman kit are the Felpro premium permadry ones. Buying the Felpro kit would be dumb, costs more money for the exact same thing but without new bolts. Dorman's parts arent cheap crap, I love their parts:thumbsup: Dorman has responded to a request by advising that the LIM gaskets are "made of metal", and provided a picture (attached). Dorman has verified that the kit comes with 8 bolts, not the 6 shown. It looks similar to the higher cost FelPro and Victor gaskets. Additionally, an apparently knowledgeable reviewer on amazon gave it a good review. I ordered in this Dorman kit, and the $95 Victor Reinze master set. I'll eat the return costs just so I have whatever I need on hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I am in the middle of this job, and I am having problems with the fuel rail. Any advise appreciated. I have two metal lines going to the feed rail. One goes to the bottom of the regulator, and attached to the regulator with what appears to be a plastic nut. Is there supposed to be an O-ring here? How do you disengage the electrical connections from the injectors? Is there a tool needed to dislodge the injectors from the LIM, or should I just pull up? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 I have two metal lines going to the feed rail. One goes to the bottom of the regulator, and attached to the regulator with what appears to be a plastic nut. Is there supposed to be an O-ring here? How do you disengage the electrical connections from the injectors? Is there a tool needed to dislodge the injectors from the LIM, or should I just pull up? OK, I realized that all electrical connections to the fuel rail and beyond were disconnected on both sides of the rail, and that I could remove the fuel rail with the injectors still connected. I cleaned out the injector valleys on the LIM, sprayed some PB blaster at the injector bases, and rocked the fuel rail back and forth (which worked in the PB Blaster). Some moderate prying on the rail mounting plate (where the two bolts attach) along with continued rocking back and forth worked the injectors loose, and I removed the rail, injectors and injector power cable as a unit. I'll mess with the injectors later... I need to get the Valve covers and LIM replaced so that my Black gasket sealer starts its 24-hour cure time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted May 3, 2011 Report Share Posted May 3, 2011 Be sure to replace the injector "o" rings...cheap insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 Be sure to replace the injector "o" rings...cheap insurance. Uppers, lowers, or both? I haven't had a chance to look at them yet. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted May 4, 2011 Report Share Posted May 4, 2011 If you're not pulling the injectors off of the fuel rail, just lowers. Want to make sure they seal well at the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 WHile taking off the LIM, I found that two of the diagonal bolts are under sort of an "overhang" on the LIM, and I could not easily apply a socket to them. If you know what I am talking about... how am I supposed to use a torque wrench on these? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 Isn't that going to mess up the torque readings a bit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 5, 2011 Report Share Posted May 5, 2011 No, youll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 The longer ones are the exhaust valves Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 The longer ones are the exhaust valves I deleted my post because I included a questionable link. I know that the longer pushrods are exhaust, THAT information was easy to find. Looking at the banks of vacant rocker arms, how do I know which are exhaust, and which are intake? I am pretty sure I am putting everything back where it came from, but I want to be able to double check, being wrong would be a bit of a problem. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted May 6, 2011 Report Share Posted May 6, 2011 Being wrong will net you bent pushrods and bent valves... Ask me how I know... But look at the head and see which valve opens into the intake and which one opens into the exhaust... I switched the two valves on cyl 1 and had to redo the headgaskets on my 3400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Last but not least, once the pushrods are in place, i turn the engine through two complete turns by hand(one camshft revolution) to make sure everything moves as it should. visual inspection makes sure everything is working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohcnut Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 dont forget to do your oil pump drive o-ring while you are there. they are ALWAYS leaking and cannot be replaced without doing most of this job (rear head removal on 3.4 DOHC). when you have it out replace the stock o-ring but also to make sure it dont leak again put a distributor shaft seal from an old 350(with a distributor) it's the same diameter and is fibre or cork it sits flat under the lip acting as a secondary seal to the shitty o- ring that always leaks. if you do this this will never leak again.-----I am a professional mechanic and can't have things leak again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohcnut Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hi: My first post, apologies if I do anything rude. I recently purchased a 2000 3.1L Buick, that the seller told me had a bad LIMG. I am looking to replace it. Are there any other parts I should definitely replace when I do this job? Should I do the head gaskets while I am in there, or should I let them be unless I know of a problem? I am already going to replace all the coolant hoses. Power steering pressure hose? Mounts? I am not familiar with these V-6 engines. Gasket manufucturer VICTOR REINZ offers a master set for this job (MIS16259WB); it appears to have every gasket and seal needed, as well as new bolts. Recommended? Overkill? Are there any other weak points on these engines? Thanks! dont forget to replace dummy shaft(oil pump drive) seal( and use a 350 dist.shaft seal at the top(always leaking) and of course change engine oil after doing lmg but before firing to check for leaks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 dont forget to replace dummy shaft(oil pump drive) seal( and use a 350 dist.shaft seal at the top(always leaking) and of course change engine oil after doing lmg but before firing to check for leaks. Amazingly, I don't believe that any of the 3 resources I referred to do this job mentioned this drive or its seal at all , DESPITE the fact that the Dorman kit included this seal, that they apparently tend to leak, and that the best time to replace it would be with the LIM off. I found the information about putting a seal on top when I had the car apart, but I didn't have time to hunt this down, so I just coated the top area with a thin coat of black RTV when I reinstalled the drive. If you have a part number handy for the 350 distributor shaft seal for the top, please provide for someone's future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted May 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Last but not least, once the pushrods are in place, i turn the engine through two complete turns by hand(one camshft revolution) to make sure everything moves as it should. visual inspection makes sure everything is working. I kept track of the pushrods so that they went back to their original positions, and installed them all. I then took each of them out one by one, measured it with a ruler, made sure that they were of the proper length for their location, and reinstalled it. I then went through this procedure again for all of the pushrods. Overkill, but I really did not want to make a mistake here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohcnut Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Amazingly, I don't believe that any of the 3 resources I referred to do this job mentioned this drive or its seal at all , DESPITE the fact that the Dorman kit included this seal, that they apparently tend to leak, and that the best time to replace it would be with the LIM off. I found the information about putting a seal on top when I had the car apart, but I didn't have time to hunt this down, so I just coated the top area with a thin coat of black RTV when I reinstalled the drive. If you have a part number handy for the 350 distributor shaft seal for the top, please provide for someone's future reference. I don't have the part number because i just ask the parts guy for an era 350. All small block gm engines including the 231 v6 that had the distributor in the rear of the intake used the same distributor bodies and seal 70's thru 80's it is a simple fibre ring. the last listing i asked for was 1983 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX w/ 305 4bbl(My first 350 transplant(.030 over,large valve heads, very lumpy cam, 2.5" tru duals w/headers and pipes straight through cat shells, th400 trans conversion,and posi---until posi grenaded one week after engine was out of break in. also car was t top---RIP)as I knew for sure it used this seal. So yeah order dist. shaft seal 1983 pontiac grand prix 305(5.0l)4bbl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dohcnut Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 I kept track of the pushrods so that they went back to their original positions, and installed them all. I then took each of them out one by one, measured it with a ruler, made sure that they were of the proper length for their location, and reinstalled it. I then went through this procedure again for all of the pushrods. Overkill, but I really did not want to make a mistake here. When you take out a pushrod start with cyl 1, PUSH it thru a box, mark "1", then the next one beside it,and so on in a circle around the engine.Keep track of which side was up. set aside. Clean one by one remembering which side was up and replace in its box hole until reinstallation in its exact position and location and it becomes a no brainer. no need to measure or think about shit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 I deleted my post because I included a questionable link. I know that the longer pushrods are exhaust, THAT information was easy to find. Looking at the banks of vacant rocker arms, how do I know which are exhaust, and which are intake? I am pretty sure I am putting everything back where it came from, but I want to be able to double check, being wrong would be a bit of a problem. Thanks. For reference, answer to my own question. Looking from the top, the exhaust valves (on my car) are the ones with the rocker arms closer to the spark plug side of the head, the intake valves are the ones with the rocker arms positioned closer to the centerline of the engine. See a picture from another site here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan9864 Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 When you take out a pushrod start with cyl 1, PUSH it thru a box, mark "1", then the next one beside it,and so on in a circle around the engine.Keep track of which side was up. set aside. Clean one by one remembering which side was up and replace in its box hole until reinstallation in its exact position and location and it becomes a no brainer. no need to measure or think about shit This is what I did, but by the time I reinstalled, I wouldn't swear that I hadn't mixed something up somewhere:think:. Keeping track of all the nuts, pipes, connections, wire routing, etc., had my head fried, and I am scatterbrained to begin with:confused?:. I really needed to double-check, but there were no surprises when I did. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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