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rockfangd

Cutlass DIS installation info

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The BLUE connector is C1.
 

 

Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that
is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the
ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter,
but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC.
Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).)
 

 

Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT
IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK
wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you
connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row,
far right).)

 


Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In
my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think
that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy
that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the
headlight switch that should work. I know that on my
dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at
MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I
adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims
steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver
looking thing that has a point at one end, and an
alligator clip that you hook up to ground.

 


Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire
for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire
that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter
light.

 


Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground.

 


Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used.

 

 

Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE
wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is
your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button
on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric
(KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically
changes the DIC display from one to the other when the
E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that
is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do
not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected.

 


Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to
the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter
light.
 

 


The BLACK connector is C2.

 


Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire
coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This
is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the
info for your gauges button.

 


Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN
wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In
my car it is wire number D15.

 


Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in
the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my
car it is wire number D13.
 

 

Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is
not used in the 91 model.

 

 



Driver Info System was not available 92+.

 


You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put
one in your car, then it will go where the storage
cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for
the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it
will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out
of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket
as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the
control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90
cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD
control panel was mounted above the headlight switch
(below the dash pad).
91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD.
Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the
pocket.

 



Is your headlight switch up high next to the
speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air
vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket.
My car headlight switch is located next to the vent,
with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L
models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the
foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch
next to the DIC.

Edited by digitaloutsider
Fixed formatting.

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INSTRUCTIONS:

 

Oldsmobile Driver Information System:

 

*not responsible for errors during installation such as damaged DICs, car fires, house fires, total city fire, end of universe due to division by zero through the following of the info provided*

 

 

The Driver Information System is used on several Oldsmobile model lines. This includes A, G, H, L, N, and W-bodies of the 88-91 era.

All units are physically identical, but have some internal programming differences.

 

Wiring colors can vary greatly, so verify all wires by placement. This unit has a pigtail on the rear, and colors on the pigtail differ from colors within the vehicle wiring harness.

 

DIS C1=blue 8 cavity connector

connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function

DIS-C1-A RED ORN constant hot, memory (+)

DIS-C1-B PNK/BLK PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+)

DIS-C1-C BRN BRN or GRN or YEL VF dimming input (+)

DIS-C1-D GRY GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting)

DIS-C1-E BLK/WHT BLK/WHT ground (-)

DIS-C1-F* BLK/GRY not present ---

DIS-C1-G$ YEL not present or BLU E/M input

DIS-C1-H BLK BLK/wht(or BLK) ground

 

DIS C2=black 4 cavity connector

connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function

DIS-C2-A ORN ORN SERIAL DATA INPUT

DIS-C2-B DK GRN DK GRN VSS/speedometer input

DIS-C2-C PNK PPL fuel level sender input

DIS-C2-D% BLK/GRN not used or BLK ground for e/m circuit(-)

 

* all vehicles examined omit connection to this wire, even though it is present on the unit pigtail

$ not necessary to be hooked up. most vehicles examined omit this wire.

% only hooked up on vehicles if equipped with an E/M input

 

 

and what they do:

DIS-C1-A Constant hot source, it is power for the DIS memory. Digital clusters would have this wire, but if your car does not have a digital cluster, the radio will have a constant hot wire for it's memory that would be a good power source.

DIS-C1-B Switched ignition feed, hot in run. it powers up the unit when you start the car. You can tie this to the cluster or radio. both have a hot in run wire.

DIS-C1-C Vacuum fluorescent dimming input. It controls the digital display intensity. you can tie this to a VF wire.

DIS-C1-D Button Illumination (adjustable backlighting)". You can hook these to the backlighting for the cluster or radio.

DIS-C1-E Ground.

DIS-C1-F Not used and not defined

DIS-C1-G English/Metric input, externally set by cluster or switch to set DIC unit mode, if wired.

DIS-C1-H Ground.

 

DIS-C2-A SERIAL DATA INPUT, which the DIC gets info from the ecm/pcm for calculations and display.

DIS-C2-B VSS signal input. this can be hooked to the cluster feed for the speedometer.

DIS-C2-C Fuel level gage input. this can be hooked to the cluster feed for the fuel gauge.

DIS-C2-D Ground, connected only if E/M input is present(without regard to mode)

 

1992 analog UB3 CS cluster

connector Pin# Wire color function

aUB3-C1 TAN/WHT brake indicator

aUB3-C2 WHT tachometer input

aUB3-C3 GRY illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+)

aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input

aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input

aUB3-C6 YEL not used, VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming)

aUB3-C7 BRN/WHT not used, VF dimmer input

aUB3-C8 ORN not used, ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, memory (+)

aUB3-C9 --- not used

aUB3-C10 BLK ground

aUB3-C11 --- not used

aUB3-C12 --- not used

aUB3-C13 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit, Hot in run (+)

aUB3-C14 --- not used

aUB3-C15 PNK/BLK INDICATOR FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+)

aUB3-C16 DK GRN coolant temperature sensor input

 

connector Pin# Wire color function

aUB3-D1 --- not used

aUB3-D2 BRN Check Gauges output to HUD unit

aUB3-D3 TAN/BLK shift indicator (if equipped)

aUB3-D4 LT BLU left turn indicator (+)

aUB3-D5 LT GRN high beam indicator (+)

aUB3-D6 DK BLU right turn indicator (+)

aUB3-D7 BLK ground

aUB3-D8 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator

aUB3-D9 --- not used

aUB3-D10 --- not used

aUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure input

aUB3-D12 --- not used

aUB3-D13 LTGRN/BLK "Antilock" indicator

aUB3-D14 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator

aUB3-D15 BRN charge indicator feed (sets check gauges indicator)

aUB3-D16 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon indicator

 

different pinouts existbetween 92-93 and 94 analog cluster, you cannot substitute a 92-93 cluster for a 94 without loosing these critical indicators.

 

 

 

Wire decoding, CS DIS to 92 CS analog cluster.

DIS connector C1=blue 8 cavity connector

connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function

 

DIS-C1-A RED ORN constant hot, memory (+)

aUB3-C8 ORN not used, ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, memory (+)

or

Radio-C1-10 ORN constant hot, memory (+)

 

DIS-C1-B PNK/BLK PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+)

aUB3-C13 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit, Hot in run (+)

 

DIS-C1-C BRN BRN or GRN or YEL VF dimming input (+)

aUB3-C7 BRN/WHT not used, VF dimmer input

or

Radio-C1-7 BRN/WHT VF dimming input (+)

 

DIS-C1-D GRY GRY Illumination (adjustable??? backlighting)

aUB3-C3 GRY illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+)

 

DIS-C1-E BLK/WHT BLK/WHT ground (-)

ground to chassis or other ground

 

DIS-C1-F* BLK/GRY not present ---

*not used, do not connect

 

DIS-C1-G YEL not present or BLU E/M input

HUD LT BLU E/M wire

 

DIS-C1-H BLK BLK/wht(or BLK) ground

ground to chassis or other ground

 

 

DIS connector C2=black 4 cavity connector

connector pin# color(unit) color(vehicle) function

 

DIS-C2-A ORN ORN SERIAL DATA INPUT

aldl ORN ALDL data wire

 

DIS-C2-B DK GRN DK GRN VSS/speedometer input

aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input

 

DIS-C2-C PNK PPL fuel level sender input

aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input

 

DIS-C2-D BLK/GRN not used(except if e/m equipped)BLK ground (-)

ground to chassis or other ground

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I want to add some pictures to this thread... I got this DIS from ebay and when I got it I heard rattling.. thinking and wondering if it was electrical components or solder or something that could cause a short... I opened it up. And in doing so, lots of 90s era plastic broke. BUT, figured this might be nice/useful for people to see.

dis1.jpg

 

Inside view of front of display, here you see the buttons - and broken plastic

dis2.jpg

 

Front display:

dis3.jpg

 

Inside:

dis4.jpg

 

More internals:

dis5.jpg

 

My efforts to protect the 2 PCB's from touching:

dis6.jpg

 

NASTY crack... of course this happened:

dis7.jpg

 

Otherwise looks great:

dis8.jpg

 

Taped up on the outside too.. and gap toothed as that part broke off:

dis9.jpg

 

Broken pieces of my heart :P

dis10.jpg

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That's a bummer.  I'm also going to attempt putting a DIS in my Cutlass this summer so maybe we could help each other out with the help of the other guys.  I don't know anything about wiring stuff at all.  My car is suppose to have been prewired for the DIS but having a tough time finding it.  I'm going to pull the radio out again and see if I can find it in the jumbled mess of wires. 

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Yeah, that was one of the first things I looked at - they looked ok! Working in the IT service field I've seen many motherboards with bad caps.. and I have people say.. but it should still work right? And then I say, you see this component right here.. looking like that.. it no longer can do what it was supposed to do.. so many toasted ECS and AsRock motherboards back in the early 2000's (other brands too).

 

Did you check to make sure non of the capacitors were bulging when you had it apart? They look ok from the pictures, but always good to check. 

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