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New TGP Owner


Nyshadow
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  • 1 month later...

So i was having a issue with starting, sometimes it would fire right up cold, others times it was real difficult to start cold. So last weekend i changed out the Crank Position Sensor, the old sensor had craks all down the magnet. It was really difficult to get out, but got it out and replaced it with a new one. Now car fires right up everytime. I think i got it. :D

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:( Car is still tough to start. It seems once the car warms up it's difficult to start. IF it's cold it fires right up. I wonder what could it be :think:. I noticed Gasoline in the intake, also when i put the battery back in i saw it starting to leak out of the intake. Bad Pressure Regulator?
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FORD YELLOW TOP TIME!!!(well, maybe) You need to remove your upper intake and find where the leak is coming from. You also have a single red wire located near the auxilary post... that is the fuel pump test lead, take that and touch and hold to the auxiliary post to acticate the pump to assist during the inspection(no need for key cycles)

 

Since you have a leak you should not run the car again until fixed.... we don't want a TTGP!!!

 

PRO-TIPS:

Unhook the vacuum line that goes to the fuel regulator and check for gas in the vac line port

ohm check your injectors, you'll need a multimeter, and all injectors should be a close to spec from about 11.5 to 12.5

ask about ford yellow tops if you don't know what they are, especially if you have out of spec injectors

new o-rings for injectors should be installed when needed -brown silicone ones are available from advanced auto - see parts thread for info

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FORD YELLOW TOP TIME!!!(well, maybe) You need to remove your upper intake and find where the leak is coming from. You also have a single red wire located near the auxilary post... that is the fuel pump test lead, take that and touch and hold to the auxiliary post to acticate the pump to assist during the inspection(no need for key cycles)

 

Since you have a leak you should not run the car again until fixed.... we don't want a TTGP!!!

 

PRO-TIPS:

Unhook the vacuum line that goes to the fuel regulator and check for gas in the vac line port

ohm check your injectors, you'll need a multimeter, and all injectors should be a close to spec from about 11.5 to 12.5

ask about ford yellow tops if you don't know what they are, especially if you have out of spec injectors

new o-rings for injectors should be installed when needed -brown silicone ones are available from advanced auto - see parts thread for info

 

 

Yup, already replaced injectors with Ford Yellow Tops.

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  • 11 months later...

Update, i know i haven't posted to this thread in a while. So Seems like i'm tracking down all of the little demons. This has been a interesting Journey. So i replaced the injectors again, this time while i was in there i replaced the fuel pressure regulator and both o rings at the end of the fuel lines, also spliced a new MAP sensor harness and a new map sensor. Reason why i swapped the map sensor is the check engine light was coming on and it was a map sensor code, when i looked at the map sensor, the harness was all chewed up, so new harness and sensor. So put everything back together with new plenum and intake gaskets, car fired right up, and ran great. Didn't shut off anyone, no more fuel leak. She running like a million bucks. Also picked up a new set of tail lights which i will post pictures. :D

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Oh yeah another question. How hard is it to change the brake accumlator?

 

It's not bad to replace, especially if it's a GM unit on there and you're replacing it with the same thing. I'll post a scan from the service manual with torque specs and other info later today for you.

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Thanks mfewtrail, i appricate that. Everything looks stock, i've had a new accumlator for a while and never put it on, i hope it works.

 

Go here: http://arrc.epnet.com/autoapp/8800/8800.htm It has all the PMIII info and much more. I forgot I had posted this in the FAQ's section and didn't actually need to scan anything.

 

Note text under "system bleeding" where it states that accumulator replacement may only require bleeding the bleeder valves @ the PMIII unit itself and not the entire system. After accumulator replacement on my car, I only bled the PMIII unit bleeder valves on each side of the master cylinder and didn't need to bleed the entire system.

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Ok Replaced The Accumlator, the new accumlator's O'ring was smaller than the original accumlator's O ring. Didn't think much of it and installed it with the o'ring that came with the new one. Performed a manual bleed, and noticed the pump stayed on, looked under the hood and brake flud was pissing out all over the place from the accumlator. Took accumlator back off and put the o ring from the old accumlator which was still good, put everything back together and it was all gravy. Anti Lock and brake lights both when out and the brake pedal felt normal again. :D

So i drove the car a little while, the Anti Lock light came back on a few hours later and when i looked under the hood i noticed brake fluid was coming out from the top of the reservior, too much fluid maybe???

:think:

HEre are the pics of the new tail lights i installed. Got then for $20 each from ebay, brand new in the box.

IMAG0129.jpg

 

IMAG0154.jpg

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seller is "neatcollectibles" not sure if he has anymore. Good feedback score too, Over 3K with 99.9 postive. I know they are not the Original tail lights for the TGP since they do not have the black cross lace on them but i never was a fan of the black cross lace anyway. these are for a standard 1990 Grand prix.

Edited by Nyshadow
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