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xtremerevolution

Transmission Cooler Temperature

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If that transmission has a built in temp guage (as many do and even my 4T60E does) you can just read it via a simple scanner plugged into the OBD port. I have a heavy duty RV transmission cooler hooked up, goes through the radiator and then through the RV cooler, temps stay down great on my tranny.

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That is awsome chris, I have been wanting a trans temp gauge for a while now. Seeing how easy and cheap this is, I may just do it now. :cool:

If that transmission has a built in temp guage (as many do and even my 4T60E does) you can just read it via a simple scanner plugged into the OBD port.

This man speaks the turth. :high5:

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Running the cooling lines straight to an aftermarket cooler would be more efficient than running it through the radiator first. Heat transfer is more efficient when the temperature difference is larger, in this case, between the tranny fluid and ambient. So that'd be good for the summer, but for the winter, if it gets really cold where you live, it will make a significant impact on how long it takes the tranny to warm up to operating temp. I wouldn't go below ~180*F, either.

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I don't know about 4T65E specifically, but typical trans cooler pressure is 30 psi to 80 psi.

High pressure in the cooling circuit means high pressure in the torque converter--which means the crankshaft thrust bearing is in danger.

The cooler return flow doesn't get dumped into the pan, that's what lubricates the geartrain.

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Would regular barb fittings and hose clamps be fine for this? I see a lot of cooler kits like this that attach to the upper cooler hose and just clamp on. 

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3 hours ago, JBH said:

Would regular barb fittings and hose clamps be fine for this? I see a lot of cooler kits like this that attach to the upper cooler hose and just clamp on. 

It's not what I'd prefer to use, but lots of folks do, and clearly the cooler manufacturers use those fittings so they clearly have confidence in them.

 

Given any choice, I'd stay the hell away from typical worm-drive clamps due to the damaged hoses they promote

Fuel_Pump_9.jpg

"Fuel Injection" clamps work much better--if you can get them large enough.

 

Be careful of the hose you use.  Typical "fuel" hose is NOT appropriate.  PS return hose works well if the pressure rating is high enough.  Best bet is the push-lock style hose from the hot-roddy aftermarket like Aeroquip, Russell, etc.  Done properly, you wouldn't need clamps at all.

Edited by Schurkey

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