PanamaZ34 Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 OK, I am probably being dense (and I did warn everyone when I first posted in the "member's rides" thread that I'd probably need some help), but ........... HELP!!!!!!! I thought from Slick's post that this would be reasonably straightforward (if awkward), but it is proving to be anything but (starting with the seized wheel bolt (eventually resolved with a breaker bar and socket, but only after I managed to burr the bolt fairly badly) and just getting worse LOL. I suspect that most of my concerns just relate to my unfamiliarity with the car and general ignorance, rather than anything lacking in Slick's instructions, but I certainly need some help here! The whole job is not being helped by the heat here today ...... I'm trying to do everything in 3 minute stints, broken up by returning indoors for a cold drink and 30 minutes in front of the fan with the a/c running full blast LOL Where's the belt tensioner? I'm used to cars where it is an adjustable mounting on the alternator itself, and I can't even see the alternator without lowering the front sub-frame first! Is everything connected to the engine and sub-frame or is anything connected to the body? Am I going to snap the belt by lowering the sub-frame without having removed it first? It looks like everything is on the engine (as I'd expect), but the way this job is going, as soon as I lower the sub-frame I'll discover something connected to the belt that was mounted on the body and snap the belt! If it does have to be removed first, where the **** is it, I can't see anything that looks remotely like a tensioner, letalone being able to get at it to loosen it! The electrical connections I have been able to locate look to have play in the wires, but again, teh ones I can locate, I can't see the connections properly (hidden behind the radiator bottom hose) or disconnect them with the engine in its correct position. Is anything going to break if I lower the sub-frame with all the alternator wires still connected? What's with all the bitumen soaked cardboard (or whatever it is) that I found behind the wheel? Looks like it was a pretty useless method of trying to keep the stub-axle, alternator etc clean and dry. How necessary is it? It all fell apart as soon as I looked at it, so can I get away without replacing it, or, if it is worth replacing, is there a better (plastic or something) replacement available? On an unrelated matter, I'd like to flush the radiator while I've got the front end raised, but can't see anything that looks like a drainage plug (at least in any form that I'd recognise). There is what seems to be a nut at the bottom of one end of the radiator (the opposite end from the radiator filler cap, and where I'd expect to find the drain, though it is a lot smaller than I'd expect and looks more like it is holding the radiator together than an actual drain plug), but something else covered in grease and half-obscured by some failing rubber seal, that feels to be un-bevelled (and therefore I have no idea how to release it) at the same end as the radiator filler cap. Which is the radiator drain plug (and if it is at the same end as the filler cap, how do I remove it), or is there something else that I've missed? I think the radiator is dry, but I really don't need coolant pissing everywhere if I get this wrong and there is still anything in it! Any advice gratefully received (ideally before the regular afternoon rainstorm starts and I have to leave everything until next weekend!). Thanks, Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 LOL, it can be a bit of a bear. The tensioner is on the side of the engine. It's been awful long time, but it's like a 15 or 17mm box wrench that should do the trick. http://www.pelkie.com/Glubrecht/engfront.jpg The electrical connections are on the back side of the alternator (the side you can't see). Be sure the battery is disconnected. I don't remember there being any type of cardboard behind the wheel. Sounds like theres a possibility that the heater line that runs alongside the engine may have rusted through, which is totally common. As far as lowering the subframe go's, just don't do it too awful much, but you'll be fine. The bet does not run through it, and the wire harness's have enough play in them that it will be ok. I only got it down to doing it at 45 minutes after doing the repair 4 times in 1 year hahahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 First off, disconnect the battery. You need to remove the belt before you lower the right side of the subframe. When its lowered, you cannot access the tensioner anymore. Also remove the upper alternator bolt before you lower the subframe (the one that also holds the power steering lines in place) That cardboard is actually a rubber splashguard, which in your climate, I would say is not necessary. The radiator drain plug is on the drivers side bottom of the rad, facing the engine bay. Place a drain pan under the drivers side of the rad, and rotate that plug counter clockwise about a half turn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanamaZ34 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 Thanks guys, but the rain is here and I've given up for the day. No need to worry about the battery, the car came without one, and although I have got a replacement, there's no point connecting it up until I'm ready to try starting the car. Still no idea where the tensioner is - there is a pretty useless looking pulley wheel at the top of the engine, which I guess must be it, but I can't get a socket onto it, so it will have to wait until I can pick up a decent spanner set. However, I did already try lowering the sub-frame, and there seems to be no way it will drop far enough to get at the alternator. Even after removing the radiator expansion tank, radiator bottom hose and some other hose (which I suspect I'll never be able to get back on LOL) all of which were enough to stop it from dropping, the farthest it will drop only gives me a glimpse of the alternator. Do I need to loosen the sub-frame bolts on the driver's side to let it drop further? If so, that's a second jack added to the shopping list, and getting the shop to do it is starting to look like a bargain! I must admit I'm feeling pretty pissed off right now ......... anyone want to buy a Z34 cheap? I should probably stick to things built no later than the 70's - at least I can understand them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 Don't give up on it, you'll get to it. I never had to loosen anything on the drivers side, just the front and rear subframe bolts on the passenger side. IIRC, this is the tensioner. Again, it has been years since I've owned a 3.4 car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 yes that is the tensioner circled in the pic. Put a wrench on the bolt head in the center of the plastic pulley and push it downwards as you pull the belt off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted July 19, 2009 Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 FYI the 3.4 dohc in that pic has a power steering delete pulley in place of the power steering pump, and looks to be on a Fiero subframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanamaZ34 Posted July 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2009 Heater line was a bit rusty but seemed solid. I'll have another try in a fortnight (working next weekend), but I'm not confident about lowering the sub-frame far enough ...... it would go so far down and then stop (even with no support under it, and nothing obvious catching on the body). I might try jacking up the driver's side and loosening the bolts a little to see if that makes any difference. Other than that, all I can think of is cutting a hole in the inner-wing (sorry, no idea what it would be called in American-English, inner-fender?) or having a mechanic come out to help (not mobile, so I can't take it to a shop). At least having to disconnect the bottom radiator hose did allow me to drain and flush the radiator ...... not much in it, but what there was was almost liquid rust! Flushed it out with plenty of clean water, so I did achieve something today ...... just not as much as I'd hoped! Oh, and having the front wheels off for the first time did allow me to see that the brake pads (at least on the front) look almost new (so one less thing to worry about). I guess it is a sign of getting old ...... policemen look younger and old cars become too modern to understand and repair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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