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Need a small electric fan.


AWeb80
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When I get my trans fixed and put back in, i'm not going to hook up my trans cooler through the radiator and my external cooler. i'm just going to use the after market external cooler. i want a small 5" or so electric fan i can mount on on the front of the cooler for more cooling. as i do most of the driving with the gp in the summer. and auto-xing gets it hot too.

 

Where is a good place to get a small fan like that. i'll hook it up to my own remote switch.

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Most computer fans are 12V, but good luck having one of them last long out in the open.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DER%2D16507&N=700+4294839058+4294838842+4294891681+4294902510+115&autoview=sku

 

That's a 7" fan. A while back, I found a website with a ton of the fans your looking for, at awesome prices. Can't find it now.

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I would consider keeping the stock setup just because it keeps the trans fluid a nice even temp through the radiator. fluid heat transfer is a little more predictable than fluid to air, unless you got a proven setup and do not have to experiment on your own new tranny.

 

I got a tranny temp gauge and sender I bought a long time ago and never installed it if you are interested.

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I don't know if I care for the stock set up.....I'm mounting the external cooler on the drivers side (easiest Place to put it) and I'm afraid the extra distance will make too much of a pressure drop over the system from going to the rad AND cooler then back to the trans.....

 

I don't see a problem w/ just a small external cooler. The stock radiator can't cool it that much anyways....I wouldn't think. Besides, I only drive it in weather above 40* and almost always in the summer when it's 90*+.

 

I want the fan mostly for auto X use...I'll flip it on when I run to keep the trans from getting too hot.....It gets over 120* on those asphalt tracks.....

 

 

how much for the sensor and sender?

 

 

btw, thanks Chris for the link. I'll be the guinea pig I guess on this "mod"

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AWEB: Fluid to fluid is VERY efficient as you are transferring heat into a very large and stable heat sink (radiator with lots of surface area and volume, full of water, which doesn't like to change temps easily...it has to do with thermal mass and the ability of water to accept tremendous amounts of energy before it changes temp or state).

 

Anyway, when the factory, the guys who test in Death Valley with half the cooling system covered to make sure that the mass-produced vehicles don't melt down, when they want to cool a trans in a HD application they retain the radiator cooler and add a high-density cooler as a secondary. If you actually do the math for the heat rejection needed, especially if you are "pushing it" a little (auto x = stalled against the converter?), you may find that to get the heat rejection needed out of air-to-fluid requires the same or more surface area as the radiator itself.

 

I would use a gauge and run it with and without the factory cooler. You could tell on my Suburban, with alum radiator, HD clutch fan, and the biggest air/fluid cooler B and M makes, when the converter locked, the temp would drop up to 10-15 deg. The only thing the B and M cooler did was delay how long it took to increase the trans temp. With just that cooler, in normal driving, there was no problem, but once you started leaning on it (towing) the external cooler would spike the temps higher and take longer at speed to reduce to what I considered "normal" temps.

 

So:

Water to liquid is best

lock the converter up

run a temp guage to verify

run the biggest external you can, and do it in the air flow thru the rad/condensor if possible.

 

If you are going remote on the cooler, remember that you will need more fan or ducting to get the cooling you need after stressing things, then if you have the extra cooling hanging in the factory-designed air path.

 

just some thoughts.

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FTR most in radiator trans coolers are not bad at all. it really keeps the trans fluid at ambiant engine coolant temperature, without it the trans temps can easially surpass the engine coolant temp. MOST AUX coolers that I have seen have the flow of fluid going from the trans to the radiator cooler to the AUX cooler and back into the trans again. So in essence you will be sending hot trans fluid into the radiator it gets cooled once then gets cooled again in the AUX cooler thereby making the whole setup far more efficent.

 

a fan is highly unnecessary honestly unless you intend on sitting in traffic for 5-8 hours a day. a external trans cooler works at 100% efficency when you are moving.

 

Don't worry about pressure drops at all, the w cars that had factory trans AUX coolers had them on the drivers side with no ill effects

 

120* is really NOTHING for a trans or engine, thats actually pretty cool.

 

I know you love doing custom mods, but a factory w-body AUX cooler will more then meet what you are looking for.

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one other thought if you do want a fan on it rig up a manual switch for the driver side fan and it will cool both a AUX cooler as well as the radiator.

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STFU

 

It's a comp fan.

 

May not work to well in the elements, but would work wonders cooling a computer down!

 

Its also a 'Small electric fan!'

 

:lol: <3

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