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LQ1 Alternator Installation & Brace needed? (was: Alternator Bolt)


spiderw31
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Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the bolt on the rear side of the LQ1 alternator? The one that goes through the bracket on the back of it...

 

When I pulled my alt, the bolt was missing...

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...a lot of ppl on here don't put one of those bolts back in

 

Yeah, I think that is the bolt I'm referring to. Just looking at how the alt is secured without it, I'd be a little bit concerned with leaving it out.

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I like to ground the alt as best as I can. may not matter to most people, but to me it is important enough. same with the ICM plate. most people leave the center bolt off, but I figure those two components are the most important to have good grounds to the block otherwise GM would not have wasted bolts there.

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Well really, it is just as easy for me to put it in, as I'm installing the alt from the top since the whole top end of the engine it off. I definitely see how it would make a future alt replacement easier though! :willynilly:

 

On a side note, if you ever have to have the rear head off an LQ1, the alt is ridiculously easy to do. Pull a couple bolts, and snake it out the top!

 

 

Hell yes! Screw trying to get that bolt in and out!

 

 

Pun noted...

 

Caught that one myself :lol:

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My alt was done at the dealer. I did it this summer and I ended up disconnecting that bracket at the block because someone torqued the shit out of that bolt.

 

I replaced it with that bolt though. Just make sure to not make to to tight, because you can barely get any tool on it.

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That back bracket is more of a bracket than a ground.

 

It does not ground to the block??

 

are you suggesting that a ground is not necessary for the alternator? :thinking:

 

 

so a bracket is a what?? :lol:

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my thing of kopr-shield says right on the bottle "improves ground continuity" so I used it on the alt bolts, so I did test it and do not have to assume anything or ridicule anyone because it worked.

 

I actually was trying to NOT sound that way. If I did, sucks for me.

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The alternator can send out a charge if it's not touching anything, except for the drive belt, power cables, and the little plug, but it's pretty much physically impossible. However, the casing of the alternator is ground, and you stand the chance of feedback if it isn't grounded.

 

That being said, 1-2 bolts on an alternator is plenty well enough, considering the fact that it isn't just the bolts that touch the block, but also the alternator casing itself that is making MORE than enough contact for a good ground.

 

That 3rd bolt on the 3.4, I'd leave it out. If your really really worried about it, then go ahead and put it back in, but we have the full right to say "I told you so" when your alternator does fail down the road, and you have to get that out.

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It does not ground to the block??

 

are you suggesting that a ground is not necessary for the alternator? :thinking:

 

As others have mentioned, it grounds through the case. If that bolt is missing it can still ground through the front of the case.

 

 

You guys got my curiosity going. Does it ground? And how does it ground? It doesn't touch the actual ground! :willynilly:

 

^ Does that answer your question, or does the definition of ground need clarification? If so, ground does not neccesarily mean "earth ground" as it is commonly referred to in house wiring. In this case (and with just about all electronics), ground is a stable base reference voltage to which all circuits are referenced and returned to. Basically you are picking one side of the battery (in this case negative), calling it "ground", and requiring that every circuit eventually connect directly to it.

 

 

That 3rd bolt on the 3.4, I'd leave it out. If your really really worried about it, then go ahead and put it back in, but we have the full right to say "I told you so" when your alternator does fail down the road, and you have to get that out.

 

Not doubting you in any way, but a very real question since I've not looked at the back of the alt with everything back on the car, but what gets in the way of that bolt? It seems like it wouldn't be too bad to reach with a ratcheting box wrench once the rubber duct is out of the way? Also, if leaving the bolt out, is there any reason to put the bracket back in? I don't think it connects to anything else other than the block.

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Once everything is back together, that top bolt is a humongous PITA to access, let alone remove.

 

However, with wratcheting wrenches, it may make it easier, but the angle of allowable movement to is still pretty small, so you will be there for a while.

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