Jump to content

Coilovers, Adj Mounts, Solid Cradle Bushings, UPDATE 3/25 Design Done!!!!


BXX
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers.

 

Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed.

 

So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything.

 

Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday :burnout: And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell.

 

-Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

awesome man! this forum REALLY needs a good write up on how to make custom coilovers!

 

Oh, I gots more info on suspension mods. Including soon is front coilover conversion and how to space the wheel out without spacers utilizing newer lateral links. And a few other goodies soon to come!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do, I just got in from workin in mah garages. After I eat, I will upload the pics (takes forever, P3 600Mhz FTMFL) and I will do the write up. Its so fricken simple is funny :lol:

 

Orrr, im just easily amused

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL I was just going to PM you to ask if your setup was still for sale. Im switching over to KYBs because RockAuto has them cheaper (shipping included) then what I paid for my crappy Gabriels last year. I cant wait for the write-up so I can get to gathering parts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, lets start with the parts and where to get them for a decent price.. First site/place listed is the cheaper ones I used, other options are listed, but not the pricing.

 

2 - KYB GR2s PN 236003 $45.79 each - www.rockauto.com or www.tirerack.com

2 - ES Spring Isolators PN 9.6103R $6.99/pair - www.autozone.com or www.summitracing.com

2 - Coilover Sleeves PN COK12452-H $18.40 each - http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx

2 - Coilover Adjuster Nuts PN COK12460 $12.87 each - http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.aspx

2 - 2.5" 12" Coilover Springs - HA12-300 $37.88 each(I used these) - Pick your spring rate http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925130+400026+4294846689+4294787535+115+4294791365

2 - Strut Mounts Stock with Bumper, Take you pick, as long as it has the bumper/bellow in pic

 

Cost before buying mounts... Appx 236.87 including struts.. And its easier when you can buy a few parts here and there from paycheck to paycheck. No dropping a big amount of $$$ at one time

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heres some pics, step by step as far as bealing with the mounts..

 

Take the mount as seen, tear the bellow/boot off and you will see this

 

100_0521.jpg

 

100_0522.jpg

 

Cut off the rest of the bellow

 

100_0527.jpg

 

Lube up ES isolator and grin a bear it and pull it over onto the mount. May not be an easy task

 

100_0528.jpg

 

100_0529.jpg

 

The mount is done and dealt with. The ES Isloator isolates the spring from the metal mount. It sits quite nicely

 

100_0530.jpg

 

100_0531.jpg

 

100_0532.jpg

 

Assembly sleeve and nut over strut

 

100_0526.jpg

 

Put spring on, here are the springs I used, 300lb

 

100_0525.jpg

 

Top with mount and tighten the hell outta the nut

 

100_0544.jpg

 

I removed everything and gave it a coil of paint. Including the strut body and inside the coilover sleeve to produce a layer of paint that will prohibit corrosion and noise

 

All Done!!

 

100_0542.jpg

 

100_0540.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your boot/bumper wasnt reallt stuck/seized in the actual mount, I recommend you glue the hell outta it so it stays put. This will keep the spring from shifting to the side and unseating.

 

As far as jacking it up and worrying about it shifting to the side, I dunno?? It should definately keep it in place though..

 

I will be still working on my custom mounts that will keep the spring from shifting to the side and unseating, but I need to finish on how I am going to keep the strut rod secured but with enough isolation much like the stock mount allows..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will the spring not squeak against the nut on the sleeve? Wouldn't you need a spring isolator there too?

 

More than likely not.. The only problem with adding the isolator to it (I have a second set of them already) is that it fills the area where there is like a shelf. So, if the spring moves some, it wont hit the lip of the nut, it will directly hit the spring. A thinner isolator might work, but I am gonna install them as is and see if any noise is present, then I MIGHT address it with an islolator. I might just shave the ones I have down some if need be.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installation is taking part tomorrow. It got too dark too quickly as I am not only installing the coilovers, but also dropping the rear subframe to install new lateral links I got from a 01 Impala... And yes, they are longer :twisted: exactly what I wanted...

 

I will be doing a full writeup with pics, bolt sizes, recommended tools and procedure on everything I am doing...

 

Hopefully, this will motovate people to do this kinda mods once they know EXACTLY how to do it and what they will need..

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you should paint/POR15 the subframe stuff.....

 

I dont have access to a blaster and/or any coating right now. Everything for my TGP will be getting a complete blaster and coating, but the stuff for my CS will be fine in the shape it is. After all, the CS is actually a guinea pig for the mods for my TGP :lol:

 

I cant wait to see how it all looks with the longer later links. I will have the strut slotted obviously so I can set camber when I align the car at work, but the major plus is the wheel will effectively be spaced out more than spacers can safely allow!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

on a local forum I'm on....we are having a debate over some $2100 BMW aftermarket CO's vs. ours....

 

from the pics, they are virually the same, minus the fact the BMW's springs are shorter...

 

I told another BMW guy to build his himself and save a butt load of cash.

 

I got hammered on because apparently, adjusting only the height makes ours inferior......Like I said....they LOOK the same.

 

 

behvsw.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...