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Additive to quieten down piston slap??


GOT2B GM
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Sorry Matt, I gotta do it, you know me.......

 

Fram is total garbage, bar none, live in denial if you want.

(not just picking on you man, your post was just last and easiest to quote)

 

Why is everyone so fucking close minded about Fram? HAS ANYONE HERE HAD ONE FAIL? Yes, the orange Fram filters, the ones you get for $7, are most likely to be garbage because of a cardboard end cap. BUT, the rest of their line up (high mileage, synthetic line, and dura grip) all have a steel end cap. I have yet to read about a single first hand experience with Fram filters failing, even for the cheap ones. (that includes my couple years on this forum, my father using Fram on all our families cars for as long as I can remember, and a few hours of searching Google and other forums) With the exception of a recall in 1995 for their race filters, 13 fucking years ago.

 

Post your own pics of your own Fram filter failing, or shut the fuck up!

 

As for restore, I use it in my LQ1, gets rid of about 75% of the valve tick, effects the mileage by 2mpg or so, but does nothing for the over all performance of the car (no significant change in 1/4 mile times). Probably not really worth what it costs for the gains, but it gets rid of that annoying tick, so thats worth it to me.

 

Jamie

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Fram is total garbage, bar none, live in denial if you want.

 

and W-bodies arent? :lol: Yes, I have one on the TGP, so what? It was cheap, i knew it was only til i got the engine running until i could pull it out, big deal

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my cold lifters don't like FRAN. They are louder at startup. That is more than enough reason for me not to use it. Another reason is the base Delco, STP, or Purolators are cheaper.

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Funny....... I've been driving for 25 years, spent 15 in the automotive industry, used FRAM filters all my life and religously changed my oil every 3k. I have NEVER had a problem. People tend to want to blame a filter, Well if you do not change them on the recommended schedule along with your oil, then even the best of filters have a high potential to fail. Unless you are running a serious race application, then FRAM is no worse than anything else out there. Same thing on Engine oils. A basic Castrol, Quakerstate or Valvoline, hell, even the SuperTech oil from Walmart will afford you more than adequate protection if changed at recommended intervals. The more expensive oils are just that, more expensive. Yes they afford more protection but it's so far over the top from what the majority of automobiles need. Lots of studies have been done to prove this. Do some web searches, you will find them and can see for yourself.

Just my .02....

I have to change my oil every month so I have a difficult time spending $10 for a filter and $35-40 on oil I don't necessarily need.

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its odd, the monte never get's lifter tap when it's cold, just when it has been started and shut off for half an hour to one hour, then started again. i am thinking it may be a drain back problem in the filter, im useing an ACD now. i think i am going to try a napa gold oil filter next time i do my oil.

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restore, I like it, but I wont tell everyone to use it. Just a personal preference i guess. I've noticed more on older more beat engines than on better taken care of engines

 

Agreed, my car had 105k miles and had always been well-taken care of and Restore did nothing for it. However I know it has worked miracles of some of my friends cars which have much higher mileage and have taken a beating.

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its odd, the monte never get's lifter tap when it's cold, just when it has been started and shut off for half an hour to one hour, then started again. i am thinking it may be a drain back problem in the filter, im useing an ACD now. i think i am going to try a napa gold oil filter next time i do my oil.

 

My cam makes things more obvious. They make a little more noise as it is.

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OMGODZOR teh FRAM!

 

j00 fail!

fail1b.jpg

 

 

 

But seriously...I've never found anything to get my 3100 to quiet down completely. It's quieter with the Amsoil Synthetic I use, but it's not perfect.

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Its black and its rusted... I bet that failed for reasons other than being Fram (if it even is a Fram) Hence why I said post a pic of YOUR filter that failed, anyone can find a pic of a random failed filter.

 

Jamie

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I actually had one "fail". I purchased the Fram Duraguard several years back...after the oil change and driving around for a few minutes I noticed the oil pressure was at zero at idle. Once you were above 1200 rpm or so you had pressure again. I thought the oil pressure sensor, failed. replaced it, same thing. Changed the filter, problem fixed. 1 year later I had bearing knock. this was on a chevy 350 engine. I will never ever buy a Fram ever again...it cost me a few thousand dollars

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I would think a thicker oil would help quiet the noise. Just last weekend I changed the oil in my 94 CS. It has 158,000 miles and makes some ticking noise, not terrible, but noticable. I put 2 quarts of 10w40 and 2 quarts of 20w50 along with a bottle of STP. Yeah, it might seem a bit thick, but the 3100 in this car uses about 2 quarts of oil between changes (every 3000 miles) and is just ready for another quart at the time of the oil change. The thicker oil should help slow down oil consumption.

 

Also, I bought the 20w50 a couple years ago at Target for 68 cents per quart. I bought 24 or 25 quarts. I couldn't pass that deal up, especially since it was the grade of oil I was using in an old car at the time.

 

As for filters, I only use AC Delco. I've heard too many bad stories about Fram, and I've seen the cutaways at Carquest showing how AC's are constructed better. But I guess that doesn't mean that if you use Fram, it'll fail. If you feel comfortable with a certain brand, then that's great.

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I would think a thicker oil would help quiet the noise. Just last weekend I changed the oil in my 94 CS. It has 158,000 miles and makes some ticking noise, not terrible, but noticable. I put 2 quarts of 10w40 and 2 quarts of 20w50 along with a bottle of STP. Yeah, it might seem a bit thick, but the 3100 in this car uses about 2 quarts of oil between changes (every 3000 miles) and is just ready for another quart at the time of the oil change. The thicker oil should help slow down oil consumption.

 

Also, I bought the 20w50 a couple years ago at Target for 68 cents per quart. I bought 24 or 25 quarts. I couldn't pass that deal up, especially since it was the grade of oil I was using in an old car at the time.

 

As for filters, I only use AC Delco. I've heard too many bad stories about Fram, and I've seen the cutaways at Carquest showing how AC's are constructed better. But I guess that doesn't mean that if you use Fram, it'll fail. If you feel comfortable with a certain brand, then that's great.

 

 

Yup, thick oil is a great band-aid for serious problems. My '88 cutlass wouldn't develop shit for oil pressure at hot idle unless it was filled with 20W50. Even filled with 20W50 it was just barely above the red mark, but at least it was above. I even considered dumping in some "Motor Honey" in to thicken up the oil even more :lol:

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I wouldn't use the ACD filters. They redesigned them a year or two ago and the E-Core filter in them suck. They sometimes fail.

 

 

 

I'd like to know how they fail because I use E-Core filters exclusively. :willynilly:

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