gp90se Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 whos tuning this beast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Well Brian mentioned Ben from 60degreev6. Other than that either I or Mustang Magic will be doing the tuning. I have tunerpro and I just need the cables for the prom. Im not too worried about tuning right now as I have a year to get my car inspected- went early for less hassle- I guess I could dremel it- The Plenum- For now Im sticking with 52mm Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188537&G=66237&I=66262 i used something similar to that (cant remember which part number) to get areas that needed a lot removed when i did my heads/intakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 I think I have one of those. I will have to try it. Thanks for the tip Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 i didnt know about them at first and went through so many sanding scrolls. they will wear out, but are a lot cheaper in the long run and easier than replacing a shit-ton of the sanding thingies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 gotcha. Yeah so tomorrow I will be working on the engine as I have off from college on fridays. So in goes the cam, heads and everything else that is important and out comes my engine so I can drop this thing in. I am probably going to be driving my grandparents '90 Pontiac Bonniville for the next week. Thats going to be fun as it has over 300,000 miles on the engine and transmission which slips and the struts are shot so it drives like a boat. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 Yeah, so I got the cam installed and the chain and cover, as well as the oil pan. Today I am going to finish installing the motor mount and then its going on the hoist. Pics will be up tonight. -As for break-in, will i have to run single springs as the springs that I have are double stage or dual springs? I heard that running dual springs will cause cam failure do to the lifter not rotating. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 the cam lobe shape is what spins the lifters, so no, you won't need to run single springs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 gotcha- thanks:) I have just heard some horror stories. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Some pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 some more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Here are the final pics for now. I have to wait for my uncle to bring the engine hoist to my house so I can get the intake bolted on and get the thing in my car. As for the cam- easy enough install rockers and pushrods- since the rockers are 1.6 ratio, I figured there would be clearance issues but I see none whatsoever.(.473 lift w/ rockers)- I wouldn't go any more than this or the guideplates may need grinding- The springs- I though that these were single but ended up being duals so the seats didn't fit. I had to gring them a tiny bit so they could pop on the bottom of the spring. Also- I picked up some Crane Cams Super Lube at S-K Speed and got some Delo 400 15-40 diesel oil at Pep Boys for Break-In. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 This is sick, man. Did you use any moly/assembly lube on the parts before install? How did the new main and rod bearings spec out as far as oil gap clearance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 I was told that the clearance was ok by an engine machine shop. I used a ton of the comp moly lube and also I am going to use some super lube. -What do I do about the preload adjustment. I am told either torque the rockers to 18 ft/lb (Manual) or 1 1/2 turns (neighbor). Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 18 lb ft is if you are using the original rocker studs. 1 1/2 turns is if you are using the old style "Gen 1" adjustable studs. They are basically lock nuts with coarse thread. You have custom/correct length pushrods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 nope- stockers Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 ok, so to adjust for proper preload, you're going to need adjustable studs. That's the only other way to do that. Look them up for like an '86 Camaro 2.8. That will give you the right studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 how much do you think? I was looking at the valves and they do compress so I am going to need them. Do you think that I could just use a nylon locknut on each and just preload the lifters and not torque them to 18 instead of buying new studs? Thanks for mentioning that. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 5, 2007 Report Share Posted September 5, 2007 it's actually the opposite. The base circle of the cam's lobes are smaller diameter, so if anything, you'll have less preload on the lifters. You won't be able to make up the slack, short of using some kind of shims between the nut and the rocker pivot "ball". But doing that is not very accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 Thanks for the help Brian I am ordering the studs tonight. As for the Bonneville... I was on route 111 coming from a side trip after school and as I was rolling up to a light- Vets Highway and Route 111 Bam!!!! Then the brake pedal drops to the floor and I got a car in front of me. I pushed as hard as I could and the car stopped. The light turned and away I went into the Sears Hardware parking lot. I stopped and check out underneath the car to find a 2 by 2ft puddle of brake fluid. -Be aware I am a good 15-20mins from home which is about 1hr because this happened during rush hour- Call my Grandfather and my mother to tell what happened, then... my phone goes dead. Oh. what luck. Good thing my mother came to the rescue and my grandfather called AAA. Im going to pick up the car tomorrow. Thanks alot rusty brake line. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 I have a question about pulling the engine. The wiring harness is sort of removed from the sensors but is still attached to the chassis. How do I pull the wiring through the section where it goes between the water pump/timing cover and the cylinder heads? It seems to get stuck. Also, the wire bundle splices off and-Im assuming it goes to the ICM, oil pressure, and the AC. Do you leave the wires on the starter connected? The rest is off. -ps -aside -plenum- off -fuel rail- dissconected and off -alternator off -starter- aside -AC- aside -all hoses-aside -Tranny bolts are next -But the wiring is killing me!!! Thanks for your help! Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 engine has been pulled. Pics coming soon Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted September 9, 2007 Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 The wiring if I remember right, has a separate plug for the upper half and lower half. After disconnecting it, the wiring should be able to be pulled thru the gap between the timing cover and cyl head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 Yeah, I was having trouble with that but then I realized the bundle would fit through better if I removed the front bracket for the dogbone mount. The motor should be going in on Tuesday if I have time on Monday to finish the studs and the intake. Tomorrow I will put up some pics. Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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