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I GIVE UP,'94 GP SE 3100 SFI LIM Repair, I GIVE UP!!!!


KCFITZ78
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have no idea and I give up on this engine. I am junking the car. I don't have a place to store and work on the car so there is no reason for me to keep it. I have been all over this and only thing left to do is pull the engine and do a rebuild because something must be broke. Will never know!!! :willynilly:

 

Checklist

-no visable leaks, good

-sprayed ether and no vaccum leaks, good

-vaccum tested and was fine, 17", good

-pulled valve covers and checked bent rods, good

-blocked off egr in case egr was stuck open, good

-dissconnected cat in case cat was pluged, good

-compression tested 150 to 160 psi throughout all cylinders, good

-checked coils, good

-checked wires for spark, good

-rechecked firing order, good

-black plugs, put in new plugs

 

Car will idle, but rough. Also there is a knock in the engine but it is not consitant. Was able to drive bout 250 yards, but was down a cylinder or two.

 

Anyone want to make any offers? :biggrin: Will make a post by end of week w/ pics, car options, replaced parts, and any history as long as I had it.

 

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so here is a dumb question, did you replace the spark plugs when you did the headgaskets?

 

as for the running hot, what does the actual gauge say? and are you getting a SES light?

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It does not run hot any more and has never thrown a code. (It took awhile to get the coolant purged). Yes i did. I am on the 3rd set of plugs. I was asked this before

 

So without me having to search through everything you wrote could you please enlighten me of whether or not you changed the spark plugs? Black means rich, which means you had a vac leak or some other catalyst for running rich.

 

It's not gonna throw a code for a misfire because its a '94 (I think, never dealt with one yet). If they were black I would suggest replacement of all 6 if you didn't do it before.

 

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It does not run hot any more and has never thrown a code. (It took awhile to get the coolant purged). Yes i did. I am on the 3rd set of plugs. I was asked this before

 

So without me having to search through everything you wrote could you please enlighten me of whether or not you changed the spark plugs? Black means rich, which means you had a vac leak or some other catalyst for running rich.

 

It's not gonna throw a code for a misfire because its a '94 (I think, never dealt with one yet). If they were black I would suggest replacement of all 6 if you didn't do it before.

 

 

So you mean to tell me that your overheating was because of purging the coolant? So even after I told you that, and you gave me the attitude, that I was right?

 

 

THE COOLANT IS CYCLING, WATER PUMP SPINS, AND THERMOSTAT OPENS. ALL WAS REPLACED WITHIN THE LAST 4 MONTHS TOO. I AM MORE WORIED ABOUT THE SOMETIMES HARD START UP, ROUGH IDLE, AND THE FACT ONCE I PUT IT IN GEAR IT WILL STALL. THE FACT THAT ENGINE GETS HOT IS NOT A COOLING PROBLEM, IT GETS HOT BECAUSE IT IS NOT RUNNING AS IT SHOULD.

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It wasn't an attitude. I use all caps at work on blueprint drawings so it was a mistake. (I am human) And as far a i knew the coolant was purged. I left the radiator cap off over night and other opening hoping any air to rise out of the coolant lines.

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sounds like my cars. all 4 of 'MY' cars. :lol:

 

 

what brand of plugs? boschs foul out immediately in our cars.

 

To ensure no air exists in you eninge coolant passages. the best(easiest) place to see the highest point of coolant on the 3100 motor is where the engine temperature sensor is located, angling up towards the front right next to the thermostat. Pull that out and make sure you have coolant visible through the port. If in doubt about the reliablility or age of the temp sensor, replace it.

 

 

I had one 3.1 car that would not start after a LIM change. I think I left the kleenexs I used to block the ports in the engine. smoked like $#!+ for a bit once it started. They were sucked into the enigine and had to be burned out :P

 

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For plugs, 2 sets of copper ac delcos burnt up and now I have regular copper champions in.

 

Also as a side note, I did replace the temp sensor. I broke the wires off while working on it. When i had the overheating problem way back in the summer I bought one when I put a new radiator and water pump in. I never replaced it because i lost it. Good thing I found it even if the car runs like crap.

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a way to find intake leaks, if that might be the current probelm is to spray...uhh starting fluid? ... around teh intake gaskets while your engine is running. If you engine reacts, it shows you do have a leak. sort of the same with a busted vaccum line.

 

 

I'm itching to say you have a vac leak somewhere.

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Why replace wires when the deliver spark, and why replace coils when they produce spark? Wires and coils were replaced 2 1/2 yrs ago. Maybe my multi meter needs replaced because it could be giving fasle values. <-----now thats attitude :lol:

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Hope this helps so i don't have to answer the same questions that i have asked myself. Sorry i know this is a long read but i think everything has been done that can be without pulling the engine and doing a rebuild.

 

I have no idea and I give up on this engine. I am junking the car. I don't have a place to store and work on the car so there is no reason for me to keep it. I have been all over this and only thing left to do is pull the engine and do a rebuild because something must be broke. Will never know!!! :willynilly:

 

Checklist

-no visable leaks, good

-sprayed ether and no vaccum leaks, good

-vaccum tested and was fine, 17", good

-pulled valve covers and checked bent rods, good

-blocked off egr in case egr was stuck open, good

-dissconnected cat in case cat was pluged, good

-compression tested 150 to 160 psi throughout all cylinders, good

-checked coils, good

-checked wires for spark, good

-rechecked firing order, good

-black plugs, put in new plugs

 

Car will idle, but rough. Also there is a knock in the engine but it is not consitant. Was able to drive bout 250 yards, but was down a cylinder or two.

 

Anyone want to make any offers? :biggrin: Will make a post by end of week w/ pics, car options, replaced parts, and any history as long as I had it.

 

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This is what I have left to try to get it running:

 

-check fuel injectors? (use multimeter)

-check fuel injector fuse?

-idle relearn? (if mine can do that)

-clean and check IAC?

-check any other fuses?

-look for pinched or bad wires?

-use seafoam and watch it die and never restart…..hahahahahahahaha :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:

..............If i do i'll be sure to get video so you can see the engine blow, that would be good for it to blow so i know its past the point of no return

 

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So your mechanic said bad fuel injector or bad pigtail. Did you ever dig into it? I have't checked that becuase my plugs where black so I felt I was getting fuel. I have it on the check list to check injectors but will also check the pigtail to the injectors too. Thanks, this wil be the last thing I check and then its gone if that doesn't work! :burnout:

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Maybe. I had to remove the compresser to get the bracket off, but the battery was disconnect. Well it wasn't disconnect all the time. I have no trunk lock so i have to have power to trip the solenoid to open the trunk. :cry:

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:werd: I was surprised my car started right up after I did the LIM for the first time last year. I mean it's a pretty big job if you've never done it before. I did however forget to tighten the TB so it was bouncing off the rev limiter due to crazy vacuum leak, but I quickly got it figured out.
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I did however forget to tighten the TB so it was bouncing off the rev limiter due to crazy vacuum leak, but I quickly got it figured out.

 

I'll bet that first start-up scared the piss out of you! :lol:

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