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Monoleaf Pad Thread (Part Number and HowTo Inside)


GP1138
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  • 2 months later...

I bought a set of those white blocks that go under the leaf spring ends. Kind of a pain to get in, but nothing a hammer won't fix.

 

how well have these worked for those who have installed them? ride height, noise, whatever.

 

 

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they are what i've used on both my Cutlass, only replaced them once and I can say that they are quiet. I would think the raise the car ever so slightly compaired to the rubber pads that were on originaly.I wasn't aware that you could get anything other then them for replacements.

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It managed to level my car out from it's saggy rear, about 1/2 inch rise I's say. I was already running a size smaller tires in front [my ABS loves me]. Wish I had high rear end problems. I'd rather that than rear sag. Makes it look getto with a car full of drivebyers.

 

It is really bad when I bring home a thousand pounds of retaining wall blocks. Sits on the rubber bumpers then....I try not to do that a lot. Last year I brought home over 4 thousand pounds of block in four trips. Now I try to stick to 12 bags of ceder mulch at a time. Much less stressful.

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I was looking at another thread and there were some white monoleaf pads that you put at the ends of the monoleaf to bring the rear end of the car back up to normal ride height. Where can I get some? I really need them.

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I was looking at another thread and there were some white monoleaf pads that you put at the ends of the monoleaf to bring the rear end of the car back up to normal ride height. Where can I get some? I really need them.

NAPA

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http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,39878.0.html

 

SEARCH. This is the second thread about this on this page.

 

I did them on my car and they look like a pain in the ass but they're not. You'll want to remove the bolts and nuts for the traling arm and swing it out of the way. Put a block of wood on your jack and carefully jack up the monoleaf on each side. Scrape the remaining pieces of pad out with a flatblade screwdriver or something, I had to use a hacksaw myself. Then just hammer the monoleaf helper pads in there underneath the monoleaf. Voila, you're done.

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I just jacked up the monoleaf, using a support board so as not to damage the fiberglass monoleaf, rounded the front edge of the plastic block with a grinder, and wedged them in. One side was tough because the rubber pad on the monoleaf was still there. I greased up the top of the block and tapped it in.

 

I removed nothing.

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  • 5 months later...

would replacing these remove the annoying suspension squeak from the back?

Only if the noise you hear is the ends of the monoleaf rubbing on the the spindle/knuckle assembly.

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I have recently purchased the isolators but have yet to install them.

 

For my 93 cutty ragtop.

 

I found them at O'reilly auto Parts

 

Monoleaf spring Isolator Pads

Moog Part K6544

Lifetime warranty

$19.99 plus tax for a pair.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did mine on 94 cutty. You can use a 6" c-clamp and block of wood from leaf to bottom strut bracket to raise leaf. You should definitely remove the old rubber ones first ( i used a putty knife ). Then just smack these in with a hammer and length of 3/4 thick wood. The slots, however, face down. They are available from rock auto online also, part# K6544 made by Moog. In suspension under "transverse spring isolator pad"

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  • 2 months later...

I just installed my 2nd set of these blocks. They "only" last like 50k miles or so. Someone said on the the slots face up and the end of the spring goes into them, that is not true, they go the other way. My mechanic didn't know about these, he tried to sell me the new rubber ones for like $75 installed.

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